Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

21 - 38 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Here are some pics, pardon the rain drops and gray skies.
This is the best option I have seen! Everything else seems to add a couple inches in height. I know this is an old thread, but I'm hoping you can give me more info on the work you did for speed rail tees. I ordered some up as soon as I saw your post, but promptly broke my first one trying to bend it into a U shape. I heated mine with a propane torch - perhaps the problem. Did you do anything special to get it bent without breaking it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
786 Posts
This is the best option I have seen! Everything else seems to add a couple inches in height. I know this is an old thread, but I'm hoping you can give me more info on the work you did for speed rail tees. I ordered some up as soon as I saw your post, but promptly broke my first one trying to bend it into a U shape. I heated mine with a propane torch - perhaps the problem. Did you do anything special to get it bent without breaking it?
That McMaster-Carr table is more than a little misleading. It sounds like you bought the wrong part it you’re trying to modify it. Scroll down and you’ll find the ones he actually bought - looks like the “wraparound tee” from the pics.

1131221


if you scroll further, there’s additional options in steel.

What I don’t understand is the “Pipe Size” and “For Rail OD” columns on the table. The bars on the stock rack are 1.75”. What size did you buy and how well did they fit?

Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Now I feel like an idiot. I assumed he cut and bent a standard tee. I did not see the wrap around tee. In his first post he mentioned that he had to bend the 1.5” tee to fit around the 1.75” factory rack - this makes much more sense now. Thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
786 Posts
Now I feel like an idiot. I assumed he cut and bent a standard tee. I did not see the wrap around tee. In his first post he mentioned that he had to bend the 1.5” tee to fit around the 1.75” factory rack - this makes much more sense now. Thank you!
So, what size did you buy and how well did they fit?

Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
237 Posts
Now I feel like an idiot. I assumed he cut and bent a standard tee. I did not see the wrap around tee. In his first post he mentioned that he had to bend the 1.5” tee to fit around the 1.75” factory rack - this makes much more sense now. Thank you!
For clarification, Mr. Earl used 1-1/4" schedule 40 pipe (which has an OD of 1.65"). The 1-1/4" wraparound tee is 1-5/8" on the wraparound side, which he had to file to fit it onto the 1-3/4" FJ rail.
With a 1-1/2" tee you'll have to use 1-1/2" pipe, which has an OD of 1.9". It is also going to be larger than the FJ rail on the wraparound side (1-7/8").
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,067 Posts
Alternatively, you could buy the wraparound tee for 1 7/8" rail OD, and add a wrap of rubber around the roof rack pipe to take up the 1/16" diameter and protect it from scratch.

The cross pipe needs and OD of 1 1/2". For steel pipe that'd be 1 1/4" pipe (typical wall t 1/8" brings it to 1.5 OD). But steel would rust pretty bad, so I'd go with aluminum pipe and paint it black, or apply some 1.5" heat shrink over it (also available from McM-Carr).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Ok - so I'm rethinking a little. My goal is to support a rooftop tent (tuff stuff alpha). I've started to think that I may need to raise the crossbar up a bit so that mid span of the tent is not below the curved roof rack. But I want to raise it up as little as possible. I'm thinking something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DJ61V2P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
then add an aluminum square tube for the crossbar.
Thoughts?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,067 Posts
I've got a pair of those clamps on my roof rack right now, they work great and can be quite strong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
237 Posts
Ok - so I'm rethinking a little. My goal is to support a rooftop tent (tuff stuff alpha). I've started to think that I may need to raise the crossbar up a bit so that mid span of the tent is not below the curved roof rack. But I want to raise it up as little as possible. I'm thinking something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DJ61V2P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
then add an aluminum square tube for the crossbar.
Thoughts?
Or you could try the crossover clamps from above, although that's a more expensive route.
1131425
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
I did use the Speed Rail clamp-on tees sized for 1-1/4" pipe, 1-5/8" OD. Some clearancing of the clamp was required to fit the FJ rack tubing, but the clamps are aluminum and quite beefy, so the filing/grinding is easy and the clamp strength is not significantly compromised. I used a 1-1/4" Sch 40 aluminum pipe for the crossbar which of course fit the clamp tees perfectly. In Denver there's a great source of all things aluminum for good prices, so the crossbar was not expensive. I carry a canoe and lumber on this and it's been bulletproof. The Duplicolor bed liner has held up really well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
Just a cautionary note: after I did this crossbar mod, there was a roar at speed (>45 mph) due to the crossbar's wind resistance and presumably some vibration to the rack. Time for another mod! I bought a piece of 3/16" aluminum plate (drop from a previous customer's cut) and fashioned an air dam which is U-bolted to the front rack legs. I kept the height just below the crossbar so as not to interfere with any loads. Works great, no more noise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Thank you all for the excellent advice - love the ideas of the heat shrink, the bed liner, and the air dam.

Mr Earl - your rack photos look great. Well done.

Norm356 - how do you use your truss clamps?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,067 Posts
Hi Pohaku,
The clamps I bought are stage lighting clamps (forgot the source), with a swivel in the middle. I painted them black and used them to lower the front cross bar to help with wind drag when my roof top carrier is on (its nose, with this lowered bar, is now below the air dam).
The cross bar is covered with heat shrink from McMaster-Carr (it came with a cloth outer cover that makes it really tough).

Note the stainless steel, nylon locking nuts (a kind of half hearted anti-theft move, so someone couldn't just undo the clamps to steal the roof top box and all of its contents).

And x2 Mr. Earl's idea to make an air dam (here's mine):
1131682

1131747


1131684


1131685


Note the air dam has a cross-car reinforcement welded across the middle of it, and the ends are bent back 90deg for further stiffening. It has a rubber "U" on the bottom edge so it won't scratch the roof.
Don't remember where I bought it, but someone posted a thread about it here two years ago and I got one too.
 
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
Top