Woolwax is certainly more viscous and will provide protection longer than any of the other lanolin brands that were mentioned. There is nothing wrong with the competitive products, but they are designed as "multi purpose" products (lubricant, penetrant, boot spray, leather softener, etc.). To do that they have to remain very low viscosity. Woolwax bulk products (gallons, pails) is developed solely as an auto/truck undercoating and is much more viscous and resistant to washoff. We hear all the time about lanolin "washing right off", and that is frustrating. Woolwax will not wash off like the low viscosity products. For an awesome cavity wax that is solvent free, check out Creep N' Crawl by woolwax.Looking to rust proof my 2007 Voodoo. Thinking about going with Black Woolwax. Looking for some input vs other choices. Had it done with Krown 2 years ago.
No feathers ruffled here Luke. It's all good. I think where we may respectfully differ is in our interpretations of the video. Especially with the images of Woolwax & Fluid Film to the far right with the big red "X"" and the words "Done with them". As a consumer you believe it to be "his informed opinion". The fact is that he is an employee of the "other" brand and this is actually an infomercial. And yes, Woolwax is a paid Vendor on this site and others. There are plenty of products available that perform well, and you really can't go wrong with ay of them.I don’t mean to ruffle any feathers but I did not hear him trash anything, just his informed opinion, complete with the shortcomings of the product.
I listened to your opinion too, even though I would guess you are paid to tout the benefits of Woolwax.
I'm in the process of knocking off surface rust as the beginning of my FJ's life started in Ohio for a few years, then made its way to Austin, and has been in SoCal for the past 4yrs. since I live in southern california and will most likely never see snow/salted roads, my final step will be to paint the frame and not use a product like FF. I'll be doing the steps you sugget here but wondering about paint.Woolwax, Boeshield, Fluid Film, are all lanolin based rust preventers and work very well at keeping water off of surfaces.
But note that if you already have surface rust its porosity will make it very difficult to prevent continued rusting even if you slather liberal amounts of lanolin over it.
Ideally, wire brush off as much surface rust as possible, then apply a phosphate converter like Ospho (available at ACE and Sherwin Williams stores) to reduce any remaining red rust into iron phosphate.
Then, you can either apply lanolin over that.
But, if you live in a rusty environment, I found the lanolin tends to rinse off during the winter and allows some red rust to proceed.
So, I went back and cleaned off the surfaces (with oven cleaner, and rubbing alcohol) to apply a thick coat of underbody paint, to help seal the surfaces (things like POR15 are awesome, just so long as it is a paint). The key before paint is to make sure the surface is very clean, so it can bond. Abrading the surface with a green scrubby helps key the paint mechanically, too.
Then, because I hate rust, I put two coats of paint, and then over that a heavy coat of 3M Cavity Wax (or Cosmoline). If using aerosol use 3 heavy coats to equal one coat of bulk liquid.
Then, because those petroleum based waxes dry semi-hard, don't penetrate all that well and don't self heal, went over that with Fluid Film (cheap, easy to apply, self healing, penetrates well and takes no time at all to touch up each fall.
Rust prevention is a series of layers, with each one protecting the one beneath, and each layer providing a good bond to the one above.
I'm going to do similar... My thoughts...I'm in the process of knocking off surface rust as the beginning of my FJ's life started in Ohio for a few years, then made its way to Austin, and has been in SoCal for the past 4yrs. since I live in southern california and will most likely never see snow/salted roads, my final step will be to paint the frame and not use a product like FF. I'll be doing the steps you sugget here but wondering about paint.
- wire brush all scaling and surface rust as best I can.
- de-grease/wash. I'll be using simple green full strength.
- apply phosphate converter.
- multiple coats of paint. I'm leaning towards Rust Oleum High Performance Enamel and I was thinking of doing a Rust Oleum Primer coat before hand - would this be overkill? Thoughts on Rust Oleum High Performance Enamel? I've had good experience with this paint in other applications.
good call, I'll try this in place of the rustoleum primer.I'm going to do similar... My thoughts...
- For really nasty areas that are super prone to corrosion, after step 3, I plan to coat with POR 15 and then top coat with Rustoleum Enamel
- For not so nasty areas, after step 3, I plan to use a base coat of Rustoleum Rust Reformer (which also has phosphate in it) and then top coat with Rustoleum Enamel
Where are you located?Looking to rust proof my 2007 Voodoo. Thinking about going with Black Woolwax. Looking for some input vs other choices. Had it done with Krown 2 years ago.