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So I just got the FJ lifted and when the shop went to realign the wheels, they couldn't break the cam bolt loose because it had rusted in place. They say if they break the bolt head off, I'll have to pay over $1000 in new cam bolts and replacing the lower control arms. Anyone know a good way to get that bolt unscrewed or if they break, will it really cost me over $1000 to fix it? Thanks for the help!
 

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Take it to another shop.......$1k is a crazy price! At the very most, the adjustment cam hardware and lower control arm bushings will need to be replaced.

If they think they are going to ruin the lower control arms, they are fools. Drive as quick and as far as possible from that shop!
 
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Yea, $1000 is ridiculous. All new cam bolts will run $120, all new bushings $210, 3hrs labor $300
 

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A lot of shop will refuse to change bushings in the LCAs, too labor intensive and with the way the FJs bushing are made , i understand them. Buy a new set of LCAs it will be less expensive in the end.
 
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SPC also makes replacement cam bolts for the FJ with inner plastic sleeves so the bolts will never seize, that's what I used when I replaced my LCAs. I'd also go with Energy Suspension bushings. You'll likely have to go to a machine shop, not just an auto shop, to change the bushing in the LCAs. From what I've heard it's not a terrible job with a torch and a press, but that's more than your local auto shop is going to want to tackle.
 

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Yea, $1000 is ridiculous. All new cam bolts will run $120, all new bushings $210, 3hrs labor $300
When I put my Boss coil overs on, I bought Toyota new cam hardware. I installed LightRacing upper control arms & replaced the lower control arms as well. They were just shy of $400, & those were Toyota parts.
 

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I lust had to replace my adjuster sleeve, the bolt came out on mine.I used a balljoint press and a bolt with a 9/16 head to drive the bushing out.The bolt head fits in the bushing sleeve and is big enough to fit over edge of adjuster sleeve.It wasn't a cakewalk but not as bad as i thought.
 

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Cost is about $120.00 for all the hardware from Toyota. Getting them off can require a sawzall and pounding the insert out with a hammer but it can be done. I had to replace mine recently and it wasn't too bad. Scroll down on this post and you will see a parts breakdown with Toyota part numbers.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru.../258905-new-cam-bolts-steering-rack-help.html


Yup... I replaced my LCA's last summer. Bushings completely trashed. Had to cut the cam bolts off on both sides. The new arms are a couple hundred each on rock auto and the hardware was another couple hundred.
 

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So I just got the FJ lifted and when the shop went to realign the wheels, they couldn't break the cam bolt loose because it had rusted in place. They say if they break the bolt head off, I'll have to pay over $1000 in new cam bolts and replacing the lower control arms. Anyone know a good way to get that bolt unscrewed or if they break, will it really cost me over $1000 to fix it? Thanks for the help!
It really depends on how long and badly the bolts have been left to rust and seize. Sometimes soaking in penetrating oil and heating can free one or both bolts but as you can see in the other posts this is a common problem. It does not sound like you have the tools or experience for this kind of work so your stuck with finding a good shop and mechanic. This shop has taken the replace it all attitude, there are other cheaper options and you also want to find a shop mechanic that knows and is willing to do some things to prevent this from happening again and putting you right back in this exact position in a few years.
 

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I just dealt with the same issue. I had the Left LCA assembly replaced completely. For the right side, I was able to slowly work the cam out after weeks of soaking it with PB Blaster (penetrating oil). I removed all the bolts, even the brand new ones that were just installed by Toyota, and applied a ton of anti-seize to everything. My tools to remove the seized bolt were: Hammer, long punch, couple crescent wrenches. I Basically beat the thing out from the back side, while rotating it as much as i could every couple of whacks.
I took a few breaks during the process to soak it with more PB Blaster during the process. Once I had it out, I took a file and cleaned all the rust off of it before applying the anti-seize. I do plan on replacing the bushings on the right side LCA, but doing this will get me by for quite a while I believe. If you have the funds, I would go ahead and replace the LCA's with aftermarket bushing kits...good luck.
 

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And where do you think the OMEs are made ? Japan outsources like everybody else...
Quality is a hell of a lot different as compared to Toyota LCAs. There is not comparison if you have actually seen both parts. No way in I would use those cheap replacements
 

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First off, I'll say that the shop that is quoting you $1000 to do the work is way out of line. I would definitely go elsewhere. The estimates that others have already posted are more realistic.

Second, after reading some of the seized hardware issues from other folks, it makes me feel fortunate that when I pulled my whole suspension apart to do the lift, the bolts all came out with no problems.

Third, it also makes me think that I need to take a second look at preserving my hardware and possibly replacing the LCA bolts with one of the greasable hardware kits mentioned. A big thanks to those that posted photos and links. :bigthumb:

Lastly, I can say from first-hand experience that the LCA bushings are a bit of a PITA to swap out. I did it with a propane torch and a vise, and it worked out fine, but one needs to exercise caution because it is not as simple and tidy to remove the stock bushings from their shells as the instructions that come from Energy Suspension make it out to be.

Best of luck with getting your problem resolved.
 

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I forgot to add that I included a section about the LCA bushings and the replacement of the stock alignment cam plates in my build thread. If you care to, you can follow my link and check out post #6 , #13 & #14 .
 
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