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Is this happening to anyone else?




This is the door striker that the suicide doors latch onto, driver (Top) and passenger side (Bottom). I do live in Illinois, so it could be the salt on the roads in the winter. I would think that they would be a little more protected, and not rust out in just a few years.

I bought my FJ used in Sept of 08. The good news, since I only have 14,xxx miles on the FJ Toyota is going to change them under warranty:bigthumb:. Just hope the body is not rusting underneath them too.

Thanks :cheers:
Jon

I did a quick search on this and did not find any results, sorry if there is another thread about this already.
 

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No. Or should I say 'not yet'.
 

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Mine started to rust so I removed them cleaned the rust off and clear coated them. No problems since.
Good idea about the clear coat. I might do that to the new ones.
 

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Good idea about the clear coat. I might do that to the new ones.
Clearcoat may be fine for the areas that don't come in contact with the latch but, won't it quickly wear off at the point where the contact is made thereby creating a void for rust to develop (assuming it's a weather/salt-related issue and not a defective part)?
 

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That looks like it came off of my 99 Taco.

08? Glad they replaced it. Jus' checked mine--- no problemo. Now gotta check the undercarriage.

Agreed, "Plasti Dip"

Mark
 

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no rust on mines. Plus I live in Hawaii. Salt air everywhere.
 

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Clearcoat may be fine for the areas that don't come in contact with the latch but, won't it quickly wear off at the point where the contact is made thereby creating a void for rust to develop (assuming it's a weather/salt-related issue and not a defective part)?
Maybe so, but maybe the part that makes contact would continually clean itself, BECAUSE of the contact. The rest would be protected.
 

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Is this happening to anyone else?




This is the door striker that the suicide doors latch onto, driver (Top) and passenger side (Bottom). I do live in Illinois, so it could be the salt on the roads in the winter. I would think that they would be a little more protected, and not rust out in just a few years.

I bought my FJ used in Sept of 08. The good news, since I only have 14,xxx miles on the FJ Toyota is going to change them under warranty:bigthumb:. Just hope the body is not rusting underneath them too.

Thanks :cheers:
Jon

I did a quick search on this and did not find any results, sorry if there is another thread about this already.
I'm in Chicagoland also and mine are pitting, but not showing rust yet.

My rig is still under warranty, curious, which dealer did you go to for replacement?

Thanks in advance.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm in Chicagoland also and mine are pitting, but not showing rust yet.

My rig is still under warranty, curious, which dealer did you go to for replacement?

Thanks in advance.

:)
I went to Oakbrook Toyota for the replacements. Nice clean job. Did not scratch paint at all, but it's not like that matters.:rofl:

Got it done last week and was going to post new pics. Then I thought, everyone could just open their doors up and look at their own. If anyone wants pics then I will post some.
 

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those parts were zinc chromate coated, and the protection is limited to the thickness of zinc used (first the zinc rusts to a crusty, off white grizz, then as the zinc goes away the red iron oxide begins)

x2 what Patriot suggested back in 5/2009: paint them. Paint tends to hold up better to corrosion than Zn plating does. Plating is typically used for all functional parts because it is so thin and so smooth (less likely to cause binding of moving parts), and so this happens.

If they are already pretty badly rusted, bead blast them to clean off all signs of red rust, and then good quality primer and silver top coat should hold up decently. The area where the latch rubs will scrape off the paint, but the presence of the latch rubbing will tend to keep that spot clean.

Note that the loop doesn't rust as bad as the plate, which sits down in the salty winter water, so another option would be to only blast and paint the plate, and about 1/2" of the way up the loop, so the original Zn-Cr could remain at the latch portion.

For bonus points, if you can find someone who does it, have them zinc-nickel plated. Incredibly long lasting against corrosion and no thicker than the original zinc-chromate, but costs tons more. Years ago, the types of plating which had served well were eliminated due to worker and public cancer issues, on top of that the amount of salt used each winter has gone up (a lot), creating this kind of perfect storm of corrosion of our beloved vehicles again (anyone remember the water soluble cars of the mid-70s? they'd have rust through holes in their bodies within 6 or 8 years due to the first uses of recycled steel).

Just like how the issues with recycled steel were eventually worked out, this coating transformation will too, but in the meantime, apply protection to every surface you can, on a cherished vehicle you want to last.


Norm
 
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