SCUBA Driver Transmission, Transfer Case, Rear Differential & E-Locker Breather MOD
Historic Background For Doing This MOD
Toyota has moved the Front Differential and Front Actuator breathers up high in the engine bay already for you, but neglected to move the Rear Differential breather, E-Locker breather, Transsmission & Transfer Case Breathers. Those with the MT will only have one breather in the engine bay area, you don't have the front actuator like the AT's do. I decided to relocate the breathers up high too, I would normally run all breathers inside the vehicle, but since the front is already in the engine bay. I decided to run the rear differential & Locker there too. I want to say this has been a collective effort by many on doing this Breather MOD.
"IF YOU DON'T TRAVEL IN HIGH WATER, YOU DO NOT HAVE TO DO THIS MOD"
I will start off with my own way of accomplishing this first. I have added Blackcherry's & Dukeofjuke’s MOD location at the end of this post. This is mainly do to mine being a little more complete and clear as far as following along with directions, pictures and tools needed to do this MOD.
To do my way of the Filter location in the engine bay you will need the following items:
Need to Purchase
1. 15’ of ¼” Fuel line. (Shop around, I paid .85 cents a foot, I have seen it for 1.85 a foot)
2. You will need to order a Toyota Camry Fuel Line Union Part # 90404-51026 ($3.50)
3. You will need to buy (3) small ¼ inch Hose clamps
4. You will need some plastic Zip Tie’s for securing the hose from the rear to the engine bay.
5. You will need a small piece of 16ga steel (This can be purchased from Lowe’s or Home Depot)
6. Rustolem Flat Black paint (If you don’t have any, Check with Dragon I’m sure he has plenty lying around. He's the undisputed “Rattle Can King”. J/K
7. You will need to buy a small 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/8" “T” for tying in the E-Locker hose to the Rear Differential Hose. This can be purchased at any Automotive store for under a dollar.
Tools Needed
1. You will need a standard screw driver (for Hose clamps)
2. You will need a Dremel Tool with Cut-off wheels or a Hand held Grinder with cut-off wheel.
3. Knife to cut the fuel hose to length
4. Your going to need some sand paper and metal file to smooth out the edges of the bracket.
The Following are some pictures of the items as listed above.
This is a 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/8” “T” You can pick these up at any Automotive store for under $1.00
Here is a picture of the Toyota Camry “Union” part number # 90404-51026
I found a nice small air breather from AutoZone, $9.95 It’s made by “Spectre” Part number 3992, they come in different colors, Silver, Blue, Red, Yellow,etc. The following are pictures of the small colored Filters, they are very similar to a K&N filter. I used a little oil on mine to keep it water proof too.
I went ahead and did the leg work for everyone for the small colored breathers.
Here is the following part numbers for the colored filters
You can also find them in your local automotive store too.
I decided to stay with the TRD theme, (Red). I also purchased 20 feet of ¼ fuel line for running the hose to the engine bay. I shopped around a bit for it, Pep Boys wanted $1.85 a foot, I found it at O’Reillys for .85 cents a foot.
I had some 16ga steel left some from my CB mount MOD and Fuse box MOD, so I used this material for making my breather bracket. You can purchase this at Lowe’s or Home Depot for under $10.00 I decided along the drivers side close to the firewall for the breather location.
I measured a 2” wide, 5” long would be just right for the bracket. I also decided to make one end round. I used my dremmel tool with cut-off wheel to cut the shape out; you can use a handheld grinder, etc. I then drilled out a ¾ inch hole for the filter. I then bent the bracket 2.5 inches back from the top of the bracket. My wife had the camera so, I couldn’t take any pics of the bracket at this stage.
I then sprayed the bracket with gray primer, then a coat of flat black.
I bought a self tapping metal screw with lock washer for attachment to the firewall.
I attached the breather to the bracket, then the hose to the breather, then ran the hose along the bottom under the vehicle.
I attached the hose with tie wraps along the frame.
In this pic you can see I left a good portion of the hose and then cut it off, tie wrapping it to the cross bar. Please don not cut the hose off to short, you want to leave enough room for your rear axel to be able to articulate without pulling out the hose from the Union.
The new Union installed.
This is a pic of the existing E-Locker location, This is what we are going to remove and install the “T” to. You need to cut about 3-4 inches from the locker hose breather end off. See the "CUT Line in the above pic. Then push the "T" into the small locker hose. I then used (2) small ties wraps for securing it, hose clamps are to small.
The newly installed "T" run from the Rear Differential Hose & E-Locker then into the Main hose which runs all the way to the engine bay.
Finished Rear Differential & E-Locker Breather location in the engine bay.
Auto Transmission & Transfer case breather location & information for relocation of breathers.
A new member Jim (007FJ) took the time to wade through hundreds of pages of the Repair manual to find the Transmission Breather and Transfer case breather locations. I new they were there, but never took the time to go find them since they were located higher up inside under the vehicle. With that being said, I have relocated these too just like the rear differential and E-Locker breathers. If your running in deep water it pays to take the time and relocate all your breathers up high to prevent damage to the drive train. Thanks again Jim and to the others that have helped to make us all water tight out the on the trails.
Here are the following Schematics of the locations of the AT Transmission & Transfer Case breathers.
Auto Transmission Breather Location (MT doesn't have this Breather)
Here is the MT (Manual Transmission Breather Location)
Transfer Case Breather Location
These will need to be relocated up high also either in the engine bay, rear jack storage area or somewhere up high out of the way of any water getting to them.
Transmission & Transfer Case Breathers:
If you open the hood and along the passenger side towards the rear of the the top of the engine, you need to reach down inside and feel. You will find (2) breathers right on top, a plastic one (this is the Automatic Transmission Breather) and a small silver cap one like the E-Locker breather. Both of these need to be removed and placed higher inside the engine bay.
I reached down between the firewall and the rear of the engine and squeezed the hose clamp holding the Plastic AT breather on, I slid it downwards out of the way. I then twisted and pulled on the plastic breather, it pulled off pretty easily.
The AT Transmission Breather after removal
I then took some ¼” hose with a ¼” brass coupling and attached it to one end of the hose, securing with a tie wrap. I then sprayed WD 40 on the other exposed end of the brass fitting to allow an easy transition on to the hose. It slid on nicely, I then used another tie wrap to secure that end on to the hose.
New Hose & Coupling to run the breather up into the engine bay higher.
Newly installed Coupling coming from the the Transmission.
I then reached down between the firewall and the rear of the engine and grasped hold of the Transfer Case Breather, it is the metal one like the locker. This one is very easy to remove, just pull firmly and it will slide right off. I then put together another brass 1/8” coupling and installed it on one end of the 1/8” hose. I secured it with another tie wrap. I reached down and slid this one on to the remaining hose. I again secured it with another tie wrap to keep it from coming off.
New 1/8" Hose and Coupling to run the breather up into the engine bay higher.
I then reached down between the firewall and the rear of the engine and grasped hold of the Transfer Case Breather, it is the metal one like the locker. This one is very easy to remove, just pull firmly and it will slide right off. I then put together another brass 1/8” coupling and installed it on one end of the 1/8” hose. I secured it with another tie wrap.
Newly Installed Coupling coming from the Transfer Case.
I reached down and slid this one on to the remaining hose. I again secured it with another tie wrap to keep it from coming off.
The finshed run of both hoses located higher in the engine bay. I will at a latter date replace the stock valves with a Filter like the Rear Differential and E-Locker.
The new relocated Rear Differential, E-locker, Transmission, Transfer Case breathers completely installed and ready for some SCUBA Driving . I hope this will help others that do any kind of water crossings.
Breather Cost $9.95
Fuel Line Cost $15.00
Hardware Cost $ 1.50
“T” Cost $.50
Leftover Metal $ Free
Union Cost $3.75
Knowing that water can’t get in and damage your rear differential; Priceless
So, for under $30.00 I have the piece of mind of no contamination to the Rear Differential & E-Locker and it looks good too
Good luck to all you SCUBA Drivers out there
The following are some other locations that it can be run to. Thanks for everybody’s support and input on this project
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Blackcherry’s Location MOD
New location for the breather is in Fuel Door Opening.
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Dukeofjuke’s Location MOD
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I took a different approach to relocating my rear differential breather. I popped out the rubber seal/plug just behind the driver's side mud flap and ran the rubber hose into the access panel where the jack is stored. I cut a small circular hole in the rubber seal/plug and then applied some silicon.
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didn't cruiserLarry post this same mod last year?
you know thats how fast these things get lost
we need a liabrary for this kind of stuff
maybe a mod will step up and create a thread with a bunch of links to these mods so they are up at a keystroke
PS, great thread and thankyou for doing it and taking the pics, I was just wondering if we could keep these organized
didn't cruiserLarry post this same mod last year?
you know thats how fast these things get lost
we need a liabrary for this kind of stuff
maybe a mod will step up and create a thread with a bunch of links to these mods so they are up at a keystroke
PS, great thread and thankyou for doing it and taking the pics, I was just wondering if we could keep these organized
I didn't see cruiserLarrys post:slant: ..I do agree, maybe a "sticky" at the top of the thread. This way everone can go right to what they want to do. Thanks for the input
Shadow, great post, do not get me wrong, yours is even better with pics than his, just I mean if we had a liabrary, we would have a resource for others to use or add too.
I was actually trying to help the site as if we had that, others would be attracted to come over and research items like your post
Shadow, great post, do not get me wrong, yours is even better with pics than his, just I mean if we had a liabrary, we would have a resource for others to use or add too.
I was actually trying to help the site as if we had that, others would be attracted to come over and research items like your post
No offense taken I agree with you, I think it's a great idea to have a section called "Library" this way you can find what ever MOD you want, good idea. I think the closest thing we have is a "Sticky" at the top of a thread.
Nice write up!! I can be a scuba driver toooooo LMAO!!! Those filters come in yellow also for all of us sunfusion's around here:bigthumbs: This is my next mod loving it great job!!
Nice write up!! I can be a scuba driver toooooo LMAO!!! Those filters come in yellow also for all of us sunfusion's around here:bigthumbs: This is my next mod loving it great job!!
Your instructions and pics are informative and well done. Very helpful. By the way, I hadn't seen any posts on this since your original so I missed them too. This is my next mod, I just changed the fluids on my diffs and xfer case so before fording another crossing I'd better get to work. Now I'll just need that rumored ARB snorkle.
With the ARB snorkle will it leave all the space over in the passanger engine compartment? I didn't want to do a CAI due to that being where I'm mounting my compressor, so I assume the snorkel will leave that space since the intake will be on top of the vehicle...ohhh I hope so cause if it is I'm a scuba driving fool fooooo sure!!!!!!!
Your instructions and pics are informative and well done. Very helpful. By the way, I hadn't seen any posts on this since your original so I missed them too. This is my next mod, I just changed the fluids on my diffs and xfer case so before fording another crossing I'd better get to work. Now I'll just need that rumored ARB snorkle.
With the ARB snorkle will it leave all the space over in the passanger engine compartment? I didn't want to do a CAI due to that being where I'm mounting my compressor, so I assume the snorkel will leave that space since the intake will be on top of the vehicle...ohhh I hope so cause if it is I'm a scuba driving fool fooooo sure!!!!!!!
I believe the ARB Snorkel will be up high on the passenger fender when it comes out for the FJ, I'll take some pic's of where it come through on my 85 Pickup and post so you can see what it will look like. I'm a SCUBA Driving fool too:banana_hitit:
For right now it goes into my favorites folder marked "Future Mods".
Thanks Shadow-Warrior for a very informative piece. Someone on Dragon's recent trail pics thread had this exact problem we thinks. I'll reread it and shoot him a PM.
I tried to give you some Rep Points but the system tells me I have to spread it around before I give to you again. WTF? :flame:
For right now it goes into my favorites folder marked "Future Mods".
Thanks Shadow-Warrior for a very informative piece. Someone on Dragon's recent trail pics thread had this exact problem we thinks. I'll reread it and shoot him a PM.
I tried to give you some Rep Points but the system tells me I have to spread it around before I give to you again. WTF? :flame:
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