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I had the OEM battery in my 2010 FJ until just a month ago and I have had my transmission fluid changed for 25,000 miles now and it's been solid with the old battery. No more shudder. In my experience, it seems the ATF flush really was key to solving the issue.
 

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Hello,

I have a 2007 FJ with 135k miles. A couple weeks ago it started doing the shutter between 35-45mph. Like other posts I have read the dealer had me replace the battery (?) the heat shield, and rotate the tires. Now they want me to replace the tires. These tires have 1/2 or more tread still. There is a little uneven wear but a guy at my gym owns a garage and says it is very common with the Wrangler tires I have. He said he didn't think it was the tires. The dealership hasn't even taken it out for a test drive they are just sticking to replacing the tires.

I have an extended warranty but it is nearing the end. I don't want to be stuck with a crap transmission. Are there any diagnostic tests that can tell if it is the tranny? Has anyone had luck getting the dealer to replace the tranny? If so many people have this problem, and it is on so many threads in multiple websites as a known issue, I don't know why I am getting the run around.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
 

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If it is the low RPM shudder under slow acceleration, as described in this thread, then I'm convinced a full fluid change is the cure.
 

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I get this now to FJ 2009 on 97 k on it, I feel the trany slipping some times it is auto shifting
Just change the fluid and it will be fine. All machinery with moving parts have to have the lubricants changed now and then or they just aren`t going to work properly. I`ve done the full drain and replace every 50K and now have switched to the pan drain and fill every 30K and the fluid stays nice and red. Maintenance is everything if you want your FJ to last :)
 

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Hello,

I have a 2007 FJ with 135k miles. A couple weeks ago it started doing the shutter between 35-45mph. Like other posts I have read the dealer had me replace the battery (?) the heat shield, and rotate the tires. Now they want me to replace the tires. These tires have 1/2 or more tread still. There is a little uneven wear but a guy at my gym owns a garage and says it is very common with the Wrangler tires I have. He said he didn't think it was the tires. The dealership hasn't even taken it out for a test drive they are just sticking to replacing the tires.

I have an extended warranty but it is nearing the end. I don't want to be stuck with a crap transmission. Are there any diagnostic tests that can tell if it is the tranny? Has anyone had luck getting the dealer to replace the tranny? If so many people have this problem, and it is on so many threads in multiple websites as a known issue, I don't know why I am getting the run around.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
Welcome to the forum!
Your battery will not cause a shudder of any kind. The only reason to replace the battery is if it fails a load test.

Tires also will not cause a shudder of this type. Your tires can be out of balance which will cause a balance problem which is usually felt in the steering wheel. Tires will not shudder under a load and then abruptly quit when you let off the gas. Finally tire balance problems usually occur at a certain MPH usually around 30 and again at 60 MPH.

It sounds like the dealership screwing with you. I would take it to another dealer if possible.

As far as your warranty goes the company will fight you to the end on this. They will not replace your transmission unless there is something broken. If your transmission is taken apart they will find nothing broken. The TC shudder at this mileage could be fluid, Valvebody wear, or a bad torque converter.

Like everyone here will tell you your first step is to get a fluid exchange. If the dealer refuses to do it take it somewhere else and get it done. Call around and get some prices. Most transmission shops will not flush your truck at this high mileage. Call Jiffy Lube most od them will do it for you.

Good Luck!
 

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Hi Jimmiee

Thanks to you and others in the forum

I have a 2007 FJ with 241000 Kms. A couple months ago it started doing the shutter sometimes between 35-45 Kms, but more noticeable between 45-65 kms.
Thought it may have been the tires?
Unbalanced-extremme cold to mild weather-possible belt separation-etc?

Then reading the forum tried the driving in 4th when under 80 Kms/hour, and D when above that.
Problem no longer noticed when doing this.

I bought the truck in 2010 from Dealership with 130K Kms on it. Not sure if any fluids were changed?

Any way I tried the complete ATF fluid change as described by you and the forum last week.
I have put approximately 100 Kms so far (city driving), and the shutter has stopped.

Thanks again
 

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I have a 2007 FJ with 260k miles and I of course inherited the dreaded xmsn shudder. After reading this thread, I took it in and did a 12 qt. BG flush and it didn't help at all. I have no idea how long this transmission has had this condition but what's the sensible choice now? Should I do another 12 qt. flush? Jump to the friction modifier?
 

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I have a 2007 FJ with 260k miles and I of course inherited the dreaded xmsn shudder. After reading this thread, I took it in and did a 12 qt. BG flush and it didn't help at all. I have no idea how long this transmission has had this condition but what's the sensible choice now? Should I do another 12 qt. flush? Jump to the friction modifier?
The cost is cheap, drop the pan and replace the filter. It could be starved of fluid if it is clogged. OEM parts only. Did you use toyota WS fluid?
 

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I have a 2007 FJ with 260k miles and I of course inherited the dreaded xmsn shudder. After reading this thread, I took it in and did a 12 qt. BG flush and it didn't help at all. I have no idea how long this transmission has had this condition but what's the sensible choice now? Should I do another 12 qt. flush? Jump to the friction modifier?
It took 2-4 weeks for my shudder to resolve itself after a full fluid exchange. Have now been shudder-free for 20K+ miles.
 

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I have a 2007 FJ with 260k miles and I of course inherited the dreaded xmsn shudder. After reading this thread, I took it in and did a 12 qt. BG flush and it didn't help at all. I have no idea how long this transmission has had this condition but what's the sensible choice now? Should I do another 12 qt. flush? Jump to the friction modifier?
Are you sure the shudder is the torque converter? Does it go away when you shift the trans out of overdrive into 4 position?
 

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Are you sure the shudder is the torque converter? Does it go away when you shift the trans out of overdrive into 4 position?
No I'm not sure the source of the shudder...I should have mentioned that I have been driving it in 4 position under 55 to avoid the shudder.

Noted on the filter...I am kicking myself not asking them to do that. The fluid is just full synthetic ATF.
 

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No I'm not sure the source of the shudder...I should have mentioned that I have been driving it in 4 position under 55 to avoid the shudder.

Noted on the filter...I am kicking myself not asking them to do that. The fluid is just full synthetic ATF.
The filter is just a screen and doesn't need to be replaced. If there is anything in the screen on this trans then the party is over. These transmissions will never have any debris unless there is an internal failure going on.
Since the problem happens in 5th gear it's probably the converter shudder. I would try some shudder fix next.
 

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No I'm not sure the source of the shudder...I should have mentioned that I have been driving it in 4 position under 55 to avoid the shudder.

Noted on the filter...I am kicking myself not asking them to do that. The fluid is just full synthetic ATF.
I will get flamed for this, but before you rebuild, replace all the ATF with toyota brand WS ATF. Toyota especially builds their transmissions for their fluid. It has friction properties that other brands dont. All ATF is not equal, even tho they claim to be compatible. You can DIY it. Look at it this way. You cant do any more damage if its already having issues. Time to get dirty.
 

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I will get flamed for this, but before you rebuild, replace all the ATF with toyota brand WS ATF. Toyota especially builds their transmissions for their fluid. It has friction properties that other brands dont. All ATF is not equal, even tho they claim to be compatible. You can DIY it. Look at it this way. You cant do any more damage if its already having issues. Time to get dirty.
I agree there are many brands of generic fluid out there that say they are WS compatible. I ran into a case last week where a shop rebuilt a trans in a 4Runner and they had a TC Shudder. They had replaced the SLT and SLU solenoids during the rebuild and checked the VB for valve bore wear. They used a synthetic generic fluid from their oil supplier. The fix was to replace the oil with OE WS fluid. We know of some fluids that are tried and true like WS, Amsoil, Redline, etc but if you are not sure then replace the oil first.
 

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What about the torque converter?

How does the TC go bad anyways? Turbine fins break off or something? Dirty fluid clog it?
 

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What about the torque converter?

How does the TC go bad anyways? Turbine fins break off or something? Dirty fluid clog it?
What happens is the lockup clutch plate glazes up because of fluid breakdown. Once this happens it can be reversed in the early stages but if it goes on the clutch plate will start to flake apart and the face of the torque converter will warp from the heat of the slipping clutch. The torque converter can also fail because of a bearing failure. This causes a major failure which makes a lot of metal contamination which destroys the transmission. Usually, when the torque converter is bad and needs to be replaced you will also have valve body bore wear which should be addressed at the same time the torque converter is replaced. Many times replacing the torque converter is just a temporary fix as the transmission will develop problems shortly thereafter. For this reason many transmission shops will refuse to just replace the torque converter. If I were to replace the torque converter and inspect the valvebody on my vehicle i would tear down the trans and inspect it. It would be foolish not to take this next step once the trans is out on the bench.
 

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And that's why I drive a manual... All this newfangled tech is too much for me...
Why doesn't the trans have separate oil to the TC? Surely that would make for a more reliable system?
If the TC cooks itself, then it's just that to replace - not the gearbox as well.
 

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I will get flamed for this, but before you rebuild, replace all the ATF with toyota brand WS ATF. Toyota especially builds their transmissions for their fluid. It has friction properties that other brands dont. All ATF is not equal, even tho they claim to be compatible. You can DIY it. Look at it this way. You cant do any more damage if its already having issues. Time to get dirty.
Ok I finally got around to getting dirty! Since the xmsn had already been flushed, the fluid coming out was still fairly red. However, when I took down the pan, it showed me how ineffective these "flushing" machines can be. There was still a good bit of sludge in the bottom of the pan. Of course the magnets were totally caked with sludge. The screen was pretty dirty and there were some flecks in the top as you can see in the picture so I made sure to put in a new screen and o-ring. I cleaned the pan really well until it was shiny and ready to go back on.

Sadly after all this hard work has not solved my shudder so I'm probably going to look to doing another 3.5 quart change in a few months. After that, I will try Jimmiee's suggestion and put in some shudder fix. Hope you like the pictures and I will give you an update down the road.
 

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