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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
*Seized *compensate.....man I cannot spell today!

So as with many of y'all my LCA cams are siezed. Both rear ones I am told. I have 5100s on the top notch and am just stuck at 0* caster. From what I gather the LCA bushings and ball joints are alright.

I am tossing around the idea of grabbing a set of the LR UCAs and setting them at +3* to compensate. UCAs are FAR easier to install than cutting out the lowers and I know I would probably have to buy all new cams and everything when all is said and done.

Anyone see any problem with this route? I guess they can still adjust the front LCA cams which should give me a touch of fine adjustment to compliment the UCAs addition. It is either this or continue to drive it for a while with it's erratic bump-steering until I can tackle the lowers. With the 5100s I doubt I would even get enough with the OEM uppers. :shrug:

thanks

EDIT for future seachers: Answer: YES! They worked perfectly. Install was CAKE. I set them to the standard +2 degrees and they did just that. I am at 3 degrees each side.
 

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I would try starting with a few week program of keeping the lower arm cam area soaked with a penetrating oil. Your best bet by far would be to get the cams working.... it is hard enough to get someone to do a good alignment never mind without all the adjustment. Could also save you some money.
The UCA's are great but can they over come or compensate for a lack of lower adjustment?? They are not intended to, I would not be buying the new arms strictly with this in mind...I really think it will depend on the tech knowing what to do.
 

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Technically you could adjust the caster with the uppers, but at +3 from the uppers and zero from the lowers, you could rub the mounts badly. I'm not an expert on this matter anyways, I just watched my alignment guy doing this while he was babbling about adjusting caster and camber after he installed my LR UCA's :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Yeah, luckily they are "half" adjustable still since the fronts apparently still move. I have been spraying them with Liquid Wrench every-time I go somewhere (since my apartment is brand new concrete) in hopes that they may loosen up. I have a Lifetime Alignment and they seem pretty cool so My thought was that since UCAs are pretty darned simple to put on (from what I can tell) it may automatically give me 3 degrees to add to my zero.

Who knows, maybe if I add the UCAs the lowers may unseize by alignment time.

I think I will try it. I just wanted to make sure I wasnt forgetting something like you cannot run high camber UCAs with not much LCA adjustment. I think the ball joints and other hinge points compensate enough though.

EDIT: Good thought on the body mounts...I had not really thought about that...I guess that would swing the top of the spindle back more. My worn 285s are close to the flaps but not terrible.
 

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well I`m the other side of the coin and will say NO.
take care of this now so you don`t have to later on. bite the bullet, get new cams/bolts and have it done right if you plan on keeping the rig. I`m a firm believer of NO bandaids.
 

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Yeah, luckily they are "half" adjustable still since the fronts apparently still move. I have been spraying them with Liquid Wrench every-time I go somewhere (since my apartment is brand new concrete) in hopes that they may loosen up. I have a Lifetime Alignment and they seem pretty cool so My thought was that since UCAs are pretty darned simple to put on (from what I can tell) it may automatically give me 3 degrees to add to my zero.

Who knows, maybe if I add the UCAs the lowers may unseize by alignment time.

I think I will try it. I just wanted to make sure I wasnt forgetting something like you cannot run high camber UCAs with not much LCA adjustment. I think the ball joints and other hinge points compensate enough though.

EDIT: Good thought on the body mounts...I had not really thought about that...I guess that would swing the top of the spindle back more. My worn 285s are close to the flaps but not terrible.
Keep spraying them with penetrating oil, also perhaps some heat from a torch might help them get loose enough for them to work again, and yes the spindle hub would move closer to the mounts the higher you go with the uppers, at least from what I could hear the alignment shop owner lecturing his employee, little guy wanted the easy approach, and the boss kept telling him the uppers alone wouldn't work, he asked his employee to zero out the lowers and the uppers first, then adjust from the bottom almost to max, then adjust the uppers, to keep the wheels away from the mounts or something alike..., they gave me 3.7* caster this way, and even with my new tires, I haven't have the need to chop the mounts yet, the tires are close to the mount, but they never rubbed so far, knocking on wood.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well I`m the other side of the coin and will say NO.
take care of this now so you don`t have to later on. bite the bullet, get new cams/bolts and have it done right if you plan on keeping the rig. I`m a firm believer of NO bandaids.
That brings up the question can you get an appreciable amount of camber with both stock UCAs and LCAs with it lifted? Given everything is working like new?
 

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Keep spraying them with penetrating oil, also perhaps some heat from a torch might help them get loose enough for them to work again, and yes the spindle hub would move closer to the mounts the higher you go with the uppers, at least from what I could hear the alignment shop owner lecturing his employee, little guy wanted the easy approach, and the boss kept telling him the uppers alone wouldn't work, he asked his employee to zero out the lowers and the uppers first, then adjust from the bottom almost to max, then adjust the uppers, to keep the wheels away from the mounts or something alike..., they gave me 3.7* caster this way, and even with my new tires, I haven't have the need to chop the mounts yet, the tires are close to the mount, but they never rubbed so far, knocking on wood.
add new bushing to your shopping list if you plan on using heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
add new bushing to your shopping list if you plan on using heat.
Yeah. I would probably just get the complete replacement LCAs if and heat or cutting becomes the option.
 

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That brings up the question can you get an appreciable amount of camber with both stock UCAs and LCAs with it lifted? Given everything is working like new?
I was able to just get in spec but I am about 23/4 not a full three inches lift.
I have to go with PR spend the effort to get the bottom working you never now with rust how bad it will get and screw up something else. I think pen oil, some heat, persistence and time could free up the lowers. Maybe put some cardboard down if your worried about the oil staining the new parking.
 

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I would spend the money on new cam bolts/bushings instead of uca's. You may have a little adjustment now in the front, but it will seize, just give it time. install new cam bolts with plenty of anti-seize (they don't come with anti-seize from the factory, which is why they seize)
 
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