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Hi Boys and Girls,
Swiss here with another mod. This one is for those that tow with their FJ.
Here is the history/scenario:
I have towed my boat nearly 5,000 miles in the last year with the FJ and I have found the FJ does a nice job, but there is room for “handling” improvements. My boat weighs approximately 3,500 lbs and the tongue weight is probably about 350 lbs and I usually have about 200 lbs of gear/supplies in the back of the FJ when I head to Canada for a fishing trip. When everything is loaded and the boat is connected, the rear of the FJ drops about 2 inches (51 mm once I cross the border into Canada).
Here is what I did not like:
With the full load, it does not handle or ride as well as normal and as you can imagine, with your rear lowered 2”, everybody is flashing their lights at you.
Well I did some research on “air springs” (these are the air bags you install inside of the rear coil springs) and basically there are (2) brands: Air-Lift and Firestone Coil-Rite. Upon further research, there are some current issues with the Firestone brand, so that left the Air-Lift option. So I decided to try a set of the Air-Lift springs/bags.
I am here to tell you, what a difference it makes! I installed them last week and this weekend I hauled the boat to the lake and the towing difference, ride, handling, levelness, etc. was amazing. This is a “must mod” if you tow. The only thing I did not like …. I was pissed I did not do this mod sooner!
Note: I will be taking off next Friday for Canada, so in a couple of weeks or so I will also post “longer hauling reviews”.
Basic cost and install time:
You can get these kits for $77 including shipping. If you are like me and have never done this before, it will take you and a buddy about 3 hours the 1st time.
It’s kind of late tonight, but I’ll post some pics and more details tomorrow … just thought I would do the 1st post and get your interest.
**********************************************
As promised, more details!
1st, a couple of details on the kit I installed. I purchased the basic air bag kit # 60809. This kit does not include the air pump or inside controls. It includes the air bags, air lines, fittings, hardware, etc. only. I figured I would install the basics and see how it works.
2nd, The install instructions are ok. Nothing great but a few tips I will be giving would have saved a lot of time (I.e #3 next).
3rd, I actually did this install twice. The reason for that is as follows: these air bags are not meant to support the axle from the top spring seat to the bottom spring seat. Meaning, the air bags do not fill the entire space vertically. They are designed to "ooze out" between the coils and support the coils. When done triming the jounce bumper, there is about 8" of space for the bag and the air bag assembly takes about 7" of space. When I did the first install on a Saturday, I could not call "AirLift" so I assumed I had the wrong kit. I disassembled everything, removed the bags, and put everything back together with the incorrect assumption the bags should fill the entire space. After calling them on Monday, I discovered the design function and Monday evening, I tore everything apart and did the install the second time. Practice makes perfect, I cut the install time down the second time to 2 hours from the original 3 hours. They say these kits can be done in 1 hour ... maybe, if you do this for a living and you are a tire changer at Nascar races!
4th, I appoligize ... I did the install at my bro-in-laws because he has better jack stands and jacks then I have and I forgot my camera. This is not a difficult install so my "after the fact" pictures should be ok.
Ok, on with the details.
Air bags set at 5 lbs minimum:
![]()
![]()
Air bags set at 24 lbs (35 lbs is the max):
![]()
![]()
It may be a little difficult to tell, but the vehicle was raised right up to the non-loaded ride height and there was a lot more to go on the 'ol air bags. I also have about 150# or so of gear in the back of the FJ. When I did my run to the lake yesterday, I had about 30 lbs in the bags and that actually had the FJ higher then the non-loaded height. I will probably run about 26 lbs when fully loaded.
Install details:
1) Follow the install details of the kit. Basically what I will be describing, does just that.
2) Block your front wheels and jack up the rear of the vehicle so the rear tires can be removed. Set the FJ on sturdy jack stands.
3) Pull the rear wheels/tires. They don't tell you this, but it helps having them out of the way.
4) Jack up the rear axle about 2 inches. I used 2 floor jacks, one on either side of the differential. Believe me, they don't tell you this either, but it makes things a lot easier.
5) Remove the lower bolts from the shocks and pull the lower portion of the shock free from the stud. I also removed the rear lower control arm bolts.
![]()
6) Remove the sway bar bolts.
![]()
7) Remove the panhard rod lower bolt.
![]()
8) Disconnect the brake line brackets on the sides (they don't tell you this either).
![]()
9) Ok, now you are ready to lower the axle to pull the rear springs. I chose to do one side at a time. Warning. Keep a close eye on the electrical lines and brakes lines on the rear axle. Do not over extend them. This is the main reason I used 2 jacks on the axle so I could lower one side at a time and not tear off any lines. Also, make note of the spring orientation on the bottom spring seat. You will need to re-install them in the same orientation.
10) Stuff the air bags in the springs .... they go in tight. The bag valve will face down and the air line will go thru the hole in the center on the bottom spring seat. Make sure you install the black supplied rubber spacer between the bottom spring seat and the air bag. This spacer is there to protect the air line fitting coming out of the air bags. The air bags go to the bottom of the coil spring. There will be a space on top of the air bag.
11) Trim off the jounce bumper per the instructions.
12) Route the air line throught the bottom spring seat and re-install the spring. Be carefull that the air line does not get pinched.
13) Raise the axle slightly to re-seat the spring. Note: Make sure the spring is seated correctly in the top spring seat.
14) Do the other spring!
15) Make sure the air lines are not being pinched somewhere.
16) Jack the axle up a little further and re-install all the suspension components and brake lines. Note: By removing the lower control arm bolts, the axle may "rotate" slightly while only being supported by the upper control arms. I used a "bottle jack" and jacked up the front of the differential to "rotate" the differential back into position so I could connect the lower control arms.
17) Once all the rear suspension components were re-connected, I then routed the air lines to the rear of the FJ.
Two very important points here: 1) make sure the air lines are at least 8" away from the exhaust system 2) leave plenty of slack in the lines for full suspension travel "and then some more".
slack at rear diff:
![]()
"spare" line coiled up:
![]()
18) I made a simple little bracket for the filler valves and tucked it up out of harms way:
![]()
19) Put some air in the bags and try them out. Note: Run a minimum of 5 psi to a max of 35 psi.
20) Almost forgot ... put your wheels back on and lower the vehicle!
Wrap-up:
This project will take a couple of hours with a buddy helping you. The project is really not that difficult to do and I feel the difference in the vehicle stability and handling were beyond my expectations. I would do it a third time if necessary ... and maybe get my time down to 1 1/2 hours!
Hope you enjoyed this project, if you need any additional info, drop me a note.
Swiss here with another mod. This one is for those that tow with their FJ.
Here is the history/scenario:
I have towed my boat nearly 5,000 miles in the last year with the FJ and I have found the FJ does a nice job, but there is room for “handling” improvements. My boat weighs approximately 3,500 lbs and the tongue weight is probably about 350 lbs and I usually have about 200 lbs of gear/supplies in the back of the FJ when I head to Canada for a fishing trip. When everything is loaded and the boat is connected, the rear of the FJ drops about 2 inches (51 mm once I cross the border into Canada).
Here is what I did not like:
With the full load, it does not handle or ride as well as normal and as you can imagine, with your rear lowered 2”, everybody is flashing their lights at you.
Well I did some research on “air springs” (these are the air bags you install inside of the rear coil springs) and basically there are (2) brands: Air-Lift and Firestone Coil-Rite. Upon further research, there are some current issues with the Firestone brand, so that left the Air-Lift option. So I decided to try a set of the Air-Lift springs/bags.
I am here to tell you, what a difference it makes! I installed them last week and this weekend I hauled the boat to the lake and the towing difference, ride, handling, levelness, etc. was amazing. This is a “must mod” if you tow. The only thing I did not like …. I was pissed I did not do this mod sooner!
Note: I will be taking off next Friday for Canada, so in a couple of weeks or so I will also post “longer hauling reviews”.
Basic cost and install time:
You can get these kits for $77 including shipping. If you are like me and have never done this before, it will take you and a buddy about 3 hours the 1st time.
It’s kind of late tonight, but I’ll post some pics and more details tomorrow … just thought I would do the 1st post and get your interest.
**********************************************
As promised, more details!
1st, a couple of details on the kit I installed. I purchased the basic air bag kit # 60809. This kit does not include the air pump or inside controls. It includes the air bags, air lines, fittings, hardware, etc. only. I figured I would install the basics and see how it works.
2nd, The install instructions are ok. Nothing great but a few tips I will be giving would have saved a lot of time (I.e #3 next).
3rd, I actually did this install twice. The reason for that is as follows: these air bags are not meant to support the axle from the top spring seat to the bottom spring seat. Meaning, the air bags do not fill the entire space vertically. They are designed to "ooze out" between the coils and support the coils. When done triming the jounce bumper, there is about 8" of space for the bag and the air bag assembly takes about 7" of space. When I did the first install on a Saturday, I could not call "AirLift" so I assumed I had the wrong kit. I disassembled everything, removed the bags, and put everything back together with the incorrect assumption the bags should fill the entire space. After calling them on Monday, I discovered the design function and Monday evening, I tore everything apart and did the install the second time. Practice makes perfect, I cut the install time down the second time to 2 hours from the original 3 hours. They say these kits can be done in 1 hour ... maybe, if you do this for a living and you are a tire changer at Nascar races!
4th, I appoligize ... I did the install at my bro-in-laws because he has better jack stands and jacks then I have and I forgot my camera. This is not a difficult install so my "after the fact" pictures should be ok.
Ok, on with the details.
Air bags set at 5 lbs minimum:
Air bags set at 24 lbs (35 lbs is the max):
It may be a little difficult to tell, but the vehicle was raised right up to the non-loaded ride height and there was a lot more to go on the 'ol air bags. I also have about 150# or so of gear in the back of the FJ. When I did my run to the lake yesterday, I had about 30 lbs in the bags and that actually had the FJ higher then the non-loaded height. I will probably run about 26 lbs when fully loaded.
Install details:
1) Follow the install details of the kit. Basically what I will be describing, does just that.
2) Block your front wheels and jack up the rear of the vehicle so the rear tires can be removed. Set the FJ on sturdy jack stands.
3) Pull the rear wheels/tires. They don't tell you this, but it helps having them out of the way.
4) Jack up the rear axle about 2 inches. I used 2 floor jacks, one on either side of the differential. Believe me, they don't tell you this either, but it makes things a lot easier.
5) Remove the lower bolts from the shocks and pull the lower portion of the shock free from the stud. I also removed the rear lower control arm bolts.
6) Remove the sway bar bolts.
7) Remove the panhard rod lower bolt.
8) Disconnect the brake line brackets on the sides (they don't tell you this either).
9) Ok, now you are ready to lower the axle to pull the rear springs. I chose to do one side at a time. Warning. Keep a close eye on the electrical lines and brakes lines on the rear axle. Do not over extend them. This is the main reason I used 2 jacks on the axle so I could lower one side at a time and not tear off any lines. Also, make note of the spring orientation on the bottom spring seat. You will need to re-install them in the same orientation.
10) Stuff the air bags in the springs .... they go in tight. The bag valve will face down and the air line will go thru the hole in the center on the bottom spring seat. Make sure you install the black supplied rubber spacer between the bottom spring seat and the air bag. This spacer is there to protect the air line fitting coming out of the air bags. The air bags go to the bottom of the coil spring. There will be a space on top of the air bag.
11) Trim off the jounce bumper per the instructions.
12) Route the air line throught the bottom spring seat and re-install the spring. Be carefull that the air line does not get pinched.
13) Raise the axle slightly to re-seat the spring. Note: Make sure the spring is seated correctly in the top spring seat.
14) Do the other spring!
15) Make sure the air lines are not being pinched somewhere.
16) Jack the axle up a little further and re-install all the suspension components and brake lines. Note: By removing the lower control arm bolts, the axle may "rotate" slightly while only being supported by the upper control arms. I used a "bottle jack" and jacked up the front of the differential to "rotate" the differential back into position so I could connect the lower control arms.
17) Once all the rear suspension components were re-connected, I then routed the air lines to the rear of the FJ.
Two very important points here: 1) make sure the air lines are at least 8" away from the exhaust system 2) leave plenty of slack in the lines for full suspension travel "and then some more".
slack at rear diff:
"spare" line coiled up:
18) I made a simple little bracket for the filler valves and tucked it up out of harms way:
19) Put some air in the bags and try them out. Note: Run a minimum of 5 psi to a max of 35 psi.
20) Almost forgot ... put your wheels back on and lower the vehicle!
Wrap-up:
This project will take a couple of hours with a buddy helping you. The project is really not that difficult to do and I feel the difference in the vehicle stability and handling were beyond my expectations. I would do it a third time if necessary ... and maybe get my time down to 1 1/2 hours!
Hope you enjoyed this project, if you need any additional info, drop me a note.
