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After sleeping once in the passenger seat, I knew I had to do something different. I borrowed the idea of another member here and built a platform that can be used without removing the rear seats. It’s not completely done yet, but I’ve used it a couple times and it gets the job done!







In action
 

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Maybe kinda chickensht but hey it works. Get king foam eggshell for your bed. Cut it 54 in then taper it down to 43 in. Using a King you have enough left to double it past the hump from the rear seats being down to level it out. Works good. Well, looks good. Havent used it yet. Took a flick, it wont load it to send up. You got enough info if you want to try it. Domestic engineer made a fitted sheet for it....oh. also called bosslady.
 

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I hadn't looked to see if anyone else did this, but i used some foam insulation. I sized the sheet and cut with a utility knife, then used a heat knife to match the angle of dreaded hump. Made for an affordable, lightweight solution. I plan to use a twin air mattress, once i figure what to do with the front. I was thinking of using the back seat headrest receptors to mount a surface to extend the level platform.
 

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I built a levelling platform for my trunk. I used 2x3's and 1/4" plywood to create a simple solution that can be removed on demand, although I have not yet found the need to take it out as it is very low-profile. I cut the 2x3's to match the angle of the hump and can sleep comfortably with a cushy twin air mattress with the passenger seat pulled and tilted forward. I will typically use a larger backpack or devise a solution to level the excess space. I protect the surface plywood and reduce sliding with a thin rubber mat that I bought in bulk at Canadian Tire. I have made holes in the upper plywood and spaced the 2x3s accordingly to utilize the tie downs and plug in and secure the set up with a ratchet strap behind the rear seats.
I utilized extra plywood to make rails for a pullout table, supported by a block of wood against the bumper. I find this to be enough support for cooking with a light setup. I will eventually cut a hole in the "table" to access the tie-down and fill the hole with a desk cable grommet. I fit an axe, saw and shovel along with a tool kit under this platform. Please see attached photos.
 

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I just modified one of my hammocks to hang corner to corner.


Hammock by
Erik, on Flickr


Anchor by Erik, on Flickr
Interesting use of the hammock. I like to experiment with this type of stuff, so I may try this as well. I have also built a removable modular storage shelf out of redwood slats and then used MAXTRAX to span the gap over the folded down seats. A thick air matress on top makes it comfortable. Toyota Sienna cargo bins give me access to storage/snacks with the back hatch closed.
 

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Interesting use of the hammock. I like to experiment with this type of stuff, so I may try this as well. I have also built a removable modular storage shelf out of redwood slats and then used MAXTRAX to span the gap over the folded down seats. A thick air matress on top makes it comfortable. Toyota Sienna cargo bins give me access to storage/snacks with the back hatch closed.
Clever use of the Maxtrax. Cuts down on redundant materials.
 

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I was going to make the drawer system from the plans here on FJCF but after thinking about it I realized I haul way too many things in my FJ. I basically had to come up with a collapsible shelf system that I could use to store bins under, lay flat to make a level sleeping platform and still allow maximum cargo space.

Why do I need such an adaptable system? I need storage space to keep totes full of gear and wanted to keep them out of sight. Also I often haul things like a 28” snowblower, desks or a whole cargo area of goods stuffed to the roof to the Good Will. I've also spent a miserable night sleeping in the FJ with the uneven floor waiting out a major down pour on the White Rim Trail. It was then that I realized I needed something with maximum head space should that happen again. FWIW, I had a tent but it was raining extremely hard and conditions were way too muddy to set it up. With a flat platform in the FJ, I can sleep in the back if needed. With a low platform vs a higher one, I can also sit up and be much more comfortable in the back.

Back to the build. I started off making a platform size that would fit at floor level. Note the sides of the cargo area in the FJ are sloped so they are wider at the top than at the bottom so thus the need to make sure the platform fits the bottom. I basically used left over scrap wood so the top piece is 3/8” plywood and for additional rigidity I added pretty wide 3/4” strips around the edges. The strips also added to the platform height to get it closer to level with the back seats.

I left the middle area open on purpose as I’m thinking of storing table legs there in the future so I can use the platform as a camping table if it’s really needed. We usually find a rock and I'm going to get some sort of rear door table but one built into my platform would make one less thing to haul right? We’ll see.

Again this was built from parts I had already so I used some gate hinges I had laying around as pivot points for the foldable legs. They work great since they don’t allow the legs to swing freely as they have a small amount of tension. The legs are just 1 x 3”’s. Note the front legs are slightly longer than than the back legs to level the platform with the side panels. I’m second guessing that now but it’s easy enough to change should I need to.

To make set up and take down of the platform easier I put a piece of wood between the front and back legs to tie them together. I can flip the back legs in or out simply by moving the front legs. Way easier than trying to reach under and move the back legs individually. I painted the whole thing flat black and covered the top with a mat I bought at Home Depot for $13.

To anchor it down I used the same hinges and placed the legs where they lined up with the front tie down points. This gives room on the sides to store misc stuff and still access the inverter or jack area. To anchor the platform the stock bolt goes in a hinge hole to hold it in place(this doesn't work if the mat is in place, I plan on getting longer bolts with knobs to fix this). Eventually I’ll get some metric knobs to ease installation of the bolt but in the meantime a socket is still pretty quick to tighten the bolts. Is it the most secure? Probably not but it works. I might add a turnbuckle on the inner mounts but for now the seat back will keep it from moving.

Note there is about 9” under the platform when it is standing up. I plan on putting essentials like sleeping bags, tent and a couple of totes or something like the Dewalt or Home Depot Rigid boxes for storage of recovery and misc camping gear, tools, etc. that I want to keep in the FJ. Preferably waterproof cases so If I end up sleeping inside in bad weather I can put them outside under the vehicle or on the roof rack.
 

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I use a Coleman twin air mattress. You can get them with either an a.c. or d.c. pump. I have both. Lots of times I just leave it inflated in the back. My seats are always down anyway.
 

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I didn’t want to remove the back seats. Bought a twin air mattress that fits right in. It helps to already have the back door and back window hacks already installed.
 

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I didn’t want to remove the back seats. Bought a twin air mattress that fits right in. It helps to already have the back door and back window hacks already installed.
 

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I built a rear bed frame out of 2x2's I had lying around.
Made a front platform similar to what is seen here.
Covered the rest with plywood I have cut for a drawer system.
Ordered suv air mattress and screens that slide over the windows.
Camped out at a Kid rock show to make sure it works, it did.
Made sure I did the rear door mod so I can get out when I gotta go!
 

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I built a rear bed frame out of 2x2's I had lying around.
Made a front platform similar to what is seen here.
Covered the rest with plywood I have cut for a drawer system.
Ordered suv air mattress and screens that slide over the windows.
Camped out at a Kid rock show to make sure it works, it did.
Made sure I did the rear door mod so I can get out when I gotta go!
Looks good!

Links to "suv air mattress and screens that slide over the windows" please.
 

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The window screens were the ML size and fit snug on the window but still allow you to raise/lower window as desired after installation.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T8SFBK9?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

There are a few suv air mattress' available, this includes pump, fit nicely in the rear cargo area, allows folding up seats without deflating the mattress and seems to be decent quality.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZYT2N5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@CRAW
 

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I went with a modified version from the one sonof40 made. I wanted it just tall enough to clear the stupid plastic hump and to not have to remove the plastics or the seat backs to make it perfectly flat.
The rear sections is attached the the D rings on the floor and lifts up on that piano hinge and the center sections can be stored in the rear compartment at along with my basic recovery gear. The front section needs some fine tuning for the legs I want to use a folding table leg style leg but i haven't figured that out yet. Over all its perfectly flat at 78 inches long with the seats fully forward fits me with room to spare. Also don't mind the rear plastics my dog isn't kind to them.
 

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There are two red "knobs" under the 60% side of the rear seat (60/40). Unscrew and lift out the seat...very light! Remove headrests. Drop the back down flat. Now fix up the 60% side with high density foam however thick you need plus an extra thinner section for the bump drop back. Sleeping bag, pillows. You still have the 40% side seat and floor available and the floor under the bed in the seat area behind passenger seat. Pull the front passenger seat as far forward as it will go at bed time, with the back pushed down forward as well. I'm only 5'2", but it works! And the rest of my rig still has room for all my gear. Simple.
 
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