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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this may technically fall under the exterior/visual tech section but I know most of the Trail Gear slider owners pop here most often.

My question is:

I have the TG sliders on my FJ and the paint has completely failed. I am sure this is in some way my fault (poor prep). I need to know the best way to get these sliders back to bare metal and start over from scratch. I am not as concerned with appearance as with rust prevention. My paint lifts and flakes and rust forms after a short period of time. I have most recently been painting over the rust with rust stopper spray paint, and that makes it look okay for about a week. I have never stripped the rails down and started over but it is looking like that may be my next course of action. I would like to know how to go about this. Powdercoat is out of the question and I would like to avoid sand blasting. I am looking for paint/rust removal techniques that will work well with the shape of the sliders and possibly avoid the removal of the sliders from the truck. I have a cordless drill and an electric impact wrench at my disposal. Should I get some wire brush attachments? An assortment of files? Some rust removeal dip? Some sanding blocks and elbow grease? Should I suck it up and remove the sliders and just have them sandblasted? I have had the sliders for over a year and their functionality is still intact. I just hate the way they make my truck look like a beater. They are structually still intact and the rust seems to only be at the surface for now.

Thanks as always for the suggestions!:clap:
 

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To get them down to bare metal I suggest you use some lacquer thinner to strip the paint down. Then once clean put a good coat of primer then a few coats of rustoleum to keep it from rusting.:bigthumb:
 

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My sliders arrived heavily oiled and I spent a good bit of time cleaning... was beginning to wonder if those things were bleeding oil. :( Sounds like you may not have gotten yours well cleaned before painting.

Go ahead and pull them off.

If you have convenient access to sand-blasting that will take less time. Otherwise, I'd suggest removing the paint with a chemical (paint-stripper), cleaning well, abrading the metal and repainting. I used a wire brush in my electric drill and went over mine before painting. It took a while and might have been overkill...
 

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By all means take them off, it will save you time in the long run and get a better job. I'd use a chemical stripper to start. Once done with that I'd advise you to go to the local pawn shop and buy a 4" grinder for about $25 bucks and go to Lowes or the Depot and get the flapper type sanding disks for it 120 grit will do it and sand the metal bare. This will also abraid the metal and create a good bonding surface for the paint. Wipe them down completely with Acetone or similar. Use a good bare metal primer and then your color. Good luck :)
 

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Remove them and have them sand blasted. There's no way to properly prep them on the truck as well as the danger of splashing chemicals on the truck. I would do that and have a body shop prime and paint them. Some folks have them line-x..ed.. or similar; good for the trails, but can be problematic for DD/street use. Ron

I know this may technically fall under the exterior/visual tech section but I know most of the Trail Gear slider owners pop here most often.

My question is:

I have the TG sliders on my FJ and the paint has completely failed. I am sure this is in some way my fault (poor prep). I need to know the best way to get these sliders back to bare metal and start over from scratch. I am not as concerned with appearance as with rust prevention. My paint lifts and flakes and rust forms after a short period of time. I have most recently been painting over the rust with rust stopper spray paint, and that makes it look okay for about a week. I have never stripped the rails down and started over but it is looking like that may be my next course of action. I would like to know how to go about this. Powdercoat is out of the question and I would like to avoid sand blasting. I am looking for paint/rust removal techniques that will work well with the shape of the sliders and possibly avoid the removal of the sliders from the truck. I have a cordless drill and an electric impact wrench at my disposal. Should I get some wire brush attachments? An assortment of files? Some rust removeal dip? Some sanding blocks and elbow grease? Should I suck it up and remove the sliders and just have them sandblasted? I have had the sliders for over a year and their functionality is still intact. I just hate the way they make my truck look like a beater. They are structually still intact and the rust seems to only be at the surface for now.

Thanks as always for the suggestions!:clap:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the input. I was pretty sure I was going to wind up taking those suckers off. I will probably pick up a 4" grinder this week. Any excuse to buy a power tool works for me!
 

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They sell aircraft paint stripper at hardware stores. it's very strong stuff and will make the paint wrinkle and peel off. I wouldn't do this on the rig, and be careful as it's really strong. I wore ddouble gloves and after a while my hands started to burn.
 

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Yeah aircraft stripper is the way to go if you don't want to sandblast. If you can find an automotive paint supplier, they will carry several types I would go with the aerosol type for easier application. Klean Strip makes one called "Peeler" and SEM makes one called automotive paint stripper/remover. I am sure there are other brands too. I used to sell all this stuff. So definitely remove them from the rig, wear thick industrial gloves, and eye protection. Wear clothes you don't care about cause this stuff will eat a whole clean through whatever it gets on. Also be sure that you follow any instructions for proper disposal. This can be a very messy job and it pretty much turns the paint into a big slimey mess. Just follow instructions on can and go from there. Also pick up some self etching primer to recoat the bare metal with before painting. Good luck!
 

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I just got done peeling the paint off of mine last night. I used a galvanized primer that completely failed. $80 worth of Duplicote bed liner down the drain. Fortunately they never even made it on the rig before the paint failed.
 

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Believe it or not, spray cans of Brake Cleaner or Gun Bore Cleaner will get all the grease and oil off of every metal surface. It works great in tight corners where you can't sand. Let it dry off completely, the stuff evaporates really quickly, then wipe it down if there is any residue.
 

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...Powdercoat is out of the question and I would like to avoid sand blasting...
Why?

You would do best and save yourself quit e a bit of hassle and aggravation (as well as future finish failure) by removing them, taking them to a good local powder coater or such and having them sand blasted and possibley even aluminized. Having such items aluminzed prior to final paint, even if you do this part yourself will give you **lots** of longevity and life to the finished product.

A.W.D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all the input! I am thinking that I will go with the Oragon method combined with the gun bore cleaner. As for powder coating that would be ideal but since I have recently removed the front mud flaps and I have seen powdercoated sliders that have chipped REAL bad behind the front wheels I will pass. I also like the idea of rattle canning any trail damage and making them look like new again, even if I have to strip numerous layers of paint every couple of years.
 

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Personally I used the Herculiner. tough stuff and you can do both sliders with a touch up can and a roller with a foam applicator. about 35 bucks, if it ever does scrape off which is rare( I had to grind a rock HARD and only a little came off) you can use the leftover and a small paint brush to dab some more on. Duplicolor is weak, I used it on my front bumper and it can be scratched off with a fingernail. Or another option which holds up good is hammerite.
 

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...As for powder coating that would be ideal but since I have recently removed the front mud flaps and I have seen powdercoated sliders that have chipped REAL bad...
Personally I used the Herculiner. tough stuff...
Actually, I too used a bedliner product on my MT Sliders. Took them to Line-X and had them done up. As FJ FunJunkie noted, when they do get a bit bashed up, it's very easy to touch up - more so than paint. In my case, they said they could do a "cold patch" that you would never know was repaired.

A.W.D.
 

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If you get the 4" grinder, 3M makes a system for sanding. It works great and will take the paint right off without damaging the metal. Sand blasting would be your best option.
 

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strip down to bare metal....clean thoroughly with acetone.......primer immediately.......then two or three coats of your choice of rustoleum paint. I chose the HAMMERED FINISH in black.... 3 months and still holding up.

some small scratches from shoes and other car doors ...but kept a can of rustoleum around and take my overspray cardboard out and do a quick shot to cover it up......NICE :D
 

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strip down to bare metal....clean thoroughly with acetone.......primer immediately.......then two or three coats of your choice of rustoleum paint. I chose the HAMMERED FINISH in black.... 3 months and still holding up.

some small scratches from shoes and other car doors ...but kept a can of rustoleum around and take my overspray cardboard out and do a quick shot to cover it up......NICE :D
I've found that the hammer finish is nice but not as durable as the paint on Rustoleom professional. Now that is some tuff stuff. I have redone my sliders (the powder coat didn't stand up to a Michigan winter) and my bud's with that stuff and no issues. Plus the flat Black looks really nice and evens out very well.
 

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I'm thinking of putting some color on top of some already black powder coated parts. Whats the best way to go about this?

After reading some comments in this thread I'm thinking it'd be best to just leave the powder coat on for corrusion control and buy some primer and paint that will adhere on top of this?

Any suggestions, thoughts, gotchas?

Thanks,
 
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