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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My sliders are rusted in place. If you have any suggestions, please comment, thanks

Here are the problems, I can’t budge the bolts. When these were installed 4.5 years ago, I had my mechanic install them, as it was almost impossible using a swivel and ¼ ratchet to turn the bolts. You can see this box design that supports the slider also has 2 bolts inside it attached to the frame.



Here is my idea.
I put some PB blaster on the bolts (8 bolts each side), but I expect it not free these bolt. As I can not get any strong tools on the bolt to put any serious torq on the bolts. I was going to saw off the sliders at the mounts (I don’t care about the sliders, got the All Pros coming). This would provide great access to the bolts. Maybe the bolts will break free with an extended ratchet.

Worse case I will end up breaking the heads off the bolts and will have to drill out the bolts in the frame. These were metric 10.? grade bolts.
How likely is it I will break the head.
Are these hard bolt much tougher to drill through?



Another Question, different item


How important are these 1 foot long bars that attach to the frame behind the tires and connect to the cross member that supports the transfer case. I had to remove my transfer case skid plat, I had to cut the long Allen head bolts that bud uses, they attach through the end of the bar into the cross member. When I tried to remove the bar, the bolts on the frame side all broke.

Is it worth my time to drill these 8 bolts out of the frame to put these back?


 

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I you can get your hands on some "KROIL" I think that would work for you. That stuff eats rust. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I you can get your hands on some "KROIL" I think that would work for you. That stuff eats rust. Good luck.
Thanks, I just looked it up, it also goes by kano, which I forgot about, I heard this stuff is amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
:lol: and I thought I was the only one snapping off bolts in my frame! Have you been driving threw salt water marshes too?!?!
My truck sits in the driveway and rusts, only gets used on the weekends.
 

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Can you get a propane torch on the bolt without burning anything up? Heat helps break stuff loose too. Then try to loosen and then tighten the bolt to get it to move.

As for the bracket? I would be sure I got it back on there. From your picture it looks like it keeps the cross member square to the frame.
 

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Kroil is great stuff. Just give it enough time to creep into the area. A few hours minimum. I'd have no problem cutting those supports off. Heat is also good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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As much rust as you've got, I wouldn't be surprised if the nuts inside the frame break loose when you try to get the bolts out. I guess the good news would be you wouldn't have to drill the bolts out. You could just cut or grind the bolt head off, punch the rest through and maybe fish it out of the frame with a magnet? Getting new nuts in there probably won't be easy. I bet someone's had to deal with it before. Maybe there's a thread on it.
 

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When I installed my custom sliders I didn't like the small threaded holes already in the frame rails. It took a lot of time but I drilled 2 holes for each support on the sliders to take a 3/4" SS bolt with washers and lock washers. This was 8 bigger holes/slider so 16 in total. Length of bolts were 6" I believe. Not enough material was removed to compromise the integrity of the rails. I even coated the mounting hardware with POR-15 to stop any rusting on the rails and sliders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
When I installed my custom sliders I didn't like the small threaded holes already in the frame rails. It took a lot of time but I drilled 2 holes for each support on the sliders to take a 3/4" SS bolt with washers and lock washers. This was 8 bigger holes/slider so 16 in total. Length of bolts were 6" I believe. Not enough material was removed to compromise the integrity of the rails. I even coated the mounting hardware with POR-15 to stop any rusting on the rails and sliders.
I was thinking about drilling holes straight through the frame using long bolts. Did you drill though and enlarge the existing holes or all new holes?
 

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Gheezzz Rue.... That's a tight spot for sure... It looks like you could get a long 1/2" extension in there with an impact swivel socket, and maybe go at it with an impact gun to maybe vide them loose, after hitting them with a good penitrating oil, and continue hiiting them with pent' oil... maybe try heat also....




Those 12" pieces are to protect the cats' an provide a smooth breakover for the cross member so it is lesss likely to get hung up on an obstacle.... I believe anyway... ;)


It looks like no picnic that's for sure.... and why I have been slopping anti-sieze on every bolt I touch, although, I still need to do my sliderz... but I have had them out before.... we will see...


If you do have to drill, buy a REAL drillbit and spend the cash, also, keep it oiled as you drill and don't overheat it... you will be surprised how good a REAL bit drills !...
 

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I was thinking about drilling holes straight through the frame using long bolts. Did you drill though and enlarge the existing holes or all new holes?
I drilled through the existing holes (8mm threaded holes I believe they were). I only drilled 2 bigger holes per slider support. One top left and one bottom right on each. My sliders have 4 support brackets on each. so a total of 8 bigger holes per slider. 16 for both left/right slider. It was easier on my arms and shoulders drilling 16 holes as opposed to 32.
A good set of easy outs might help if you break a head off.
http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I drilled through the existing holes (8mm threaded holes I believe they were). I only drilled 2 bigger holes per slider support. One top left and one bottom right on each. My sliders have 4 support brackets on each. so a total of 8 bigger holes per slider. 16 for both left/right slider. It was easier on my arms and shoulders drilling 16 holes as opposed to 32.
A good set of easy outs might help if you break a head off.
EASYOUTS, EASY-OUTS, EZ OUT, EZY-OUT, Bolt Extractor, Screw Extractor
I've tried the easy out, the problem is when I reverse the drill, it loosens its self, it never tries to spin the bolts.

Am I using the wrong tool?

Why did you use 3/4 vs the 3/8? I've never heard of anyone snapping the head off on the 3/8 when mounted to the frame. I was thinking 3/8 grade 8 hardware.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Gheezzz Rue.... That's a tight spot for sure... It looks like you could get a long 1/2" extension in there with an impact swivel socket, and maybe go at it with an impact gun to maybe vide them loose, after hitting them with a good penitrating oil, and continue hiiting them with pent' oil... maybe try heat also....




Those 12" pieces are to protect the cats' an provide a smooth breakover for the cross member so it is lesss likely to get hung up on an obstacle.... I believe anyway... ;)


It looks like no picnic that's for sure.... and why I have been slopping anti-sieze on every bolt I touch, although, I still need to do my sliderz... but I have had them out before.... we will see...


If you do have to drill, buy a REAL drillbit and spend the cash, also, keep it oiled as you drill and don't overheat it... you will be surprised how good a REAL bit drills !...
I just got Bosch cobalt bits. I was using high speed bits from harbor freight, what a POS, they stay reasonable sharp if they didn't just snap in half or bend.

Won't the impact wrench break the heads off?

Since I've been spending 1 hour to drill out a single hardened bolt, I'm hesitant to me snapping more.

One hole a drill out didn't go to well, any suggestion of something I can put on the bolt to give it a little more grip in the damage hole? I was thinking blue loctite, but I may never get it out again?
 

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I would maybe tap out the hole with a slightly largely tap then the original and use the matching bolt... only other thing is to weld in the hole a bit and re-drill and tap with the correct size....

Most impact guns have a settings dial to lessen or add the amount of impact, you could heat thebolt, and start with a lesses amount of impact to see if it will vibrate the bolt loose....

It def' sucks, and this should be a warning to anyone doing add on mods, to add anti sieze to just about everything...

another thought, if this becomes a loosing battle is to weld them on once you do a cleanup on the sliderz... up until the FJ came along, most vehicles had to have sliderz welded on.... and if you need to remove them, it's alot easier to use a diecutter to cut the welds, then drilling out all those bolts...

or knock out the old nuts, and weld in nuts...

Weld Nuts - Racing Parts and Products
 
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