Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Buuut I am looking at FJ's now.
I'm looking FJ Cruiser's..
So I am coming from a Chrysler 300 SRT.. So a bit of a difference.
FJ's have always caught my eye.. So I test drove one today. Not a bad experience. I now have 2 vehicles one my list and I would like to know what I should look for. Most of the threads I read were from years ago.. So how have these held up over the years? I'm keeping my budget on the lower end.. So I've spotted a few near me.. A couple have over 100k on the clock.
This is something I was hoping to stay under, but for my price that might not happen.
I've read to check fender bulging and heard some problems with the trans..
Are there better models to look for? I've come across a manual with 80k, a auto with 84k and another auto with 107k.

I've heard about a shutter.. How should I do about testing the trans? I don't have access to off roading, so that might tough.

Any input is appreciated!

MacK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,393 Posts
With the trans, just drive it at all different speeds so it goes through all the gears. I don't think that is a super common problem.

If you could possibly afford a 2010+, they are the best. In terms of how they hold up, a guy on the forum has over 300,000miles on the original engine and trans...
Basically take it for a through test drive. Make sure 4wd works, and 4lo.

Cheers,
Matt


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
538 Posts
You can't miss with the FJ. Avoid the obvious as with any used vehicle. Try to stay 2010 and up. These years saw some improvements that are worth the extra money as opposed to the earlier versions. Be smart about your purchase and we hope you join us!

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Unfortunately I'm looking at earlier models.. =\ it's not something I'm exactly thrilled about, but I'll make due.
Anything to look out for with these years would be a huge help.
I know some of the basics like wind noise.. 2nd row seating complaints..
I don't expect to do any real 'off-roading' in this, but to plan on towing a sled at least. Should I have any concerns with 2x4? Or should I look for 4x4?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,393 Posts
The 4x4 is real nice to have, and if you do end up off-roading, it is almost a must... Some of the 2wds came with a rear locker, so they can do a bit.

A couple of the 2007s had weak rear diffs I believe, but 2008+ you are safe.
Look for the bender bulge/crack...

Make sure everything works! Lights, air con, backup sencors or cam, wipers, all buttons, basically everything that could have a problem... Lol

Look underneath for excessive rust...

Always feel free to post pictures of any concerns. There are some amazingly knowledgeable people on this forum.

I would also look at all the boots and make sure none of ripped.

Cheers,
Matt


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,600 Posts
Unfortunately I'm looking at earlier models.. =\ it's not something I'm exactly thrilled about, but I'll make due.
Anything to look out for with these years would be a huge help.
I know some of the basics like wind noise.. 2nd row seating complaints..
I don't expect to do any real 'off-roading' in this, but to plan on towing a sled at least. Should I have any concerns with 2x4? Or should I look for 4x4?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Any of the issues can be addressed, but it does take time and some money and creates a hassle if the FJ is your DD. A rear axle swap to the 8.2 can be done in a weekend and for 1200 to 2000, gusseted front frame (not done it myself so no idea how much time or money), and what ever else that is seen as a weak link on the 09's and earlier. Yes a 2010 would be better as OEM, but if you plan to modify the FJ I am not sure i would do it for the cost. They difference can add up to some pretty nice upgrades.

What are the other main advantages of a 2010 over earlier?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,393 Posts
Any of the issues can be addressed, but it does take time and some money and creates a hassle if the FJ is your DD. A rear axle swap to the 8.2 can be done in a weekend and for 1200 to 2000, gusseted front frame (not done it myself so no idea how much time or money), and what ever else that is seen as a weak link on the 09's and earlier. Yes a 2010 would be better as OEM, but if you plan to modify the FJ I am not sure i would do it for the cost. They difference can add up to some pretty nice upgrades.



What are the other main advantages of a 2010 over earlier?

The engine a little... The 2007-2009 seem to have more zip around town, but the 2010+ felt like it has a lot more on the highway.

Also you can turn off traction control with a button, and atrac and locker work together. Bluetooth became an option I believe as well.

Cheers


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
237 Posts
When they changed the engine in 2010 it was a horse power for torque trade off. So yes earlier engines had more torque (low end zip) and newer ones had more hp (higher top end speed). For the type of vehicle the FJ is, l'd pick the torque.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
I have the older type 4.0 engine in my 2015 Taco and the newer engine type in my 2014 FJC. The FJC engine is MUCH nicer noise wise, smoother, more responsive. The only big downside is the oil change is MUCH faster and easier on the older engine design without the internal filter to the point where I consider it a major flaw on the newer type 4.0.

I will say that the FJC's ride is, for a somewhat basic short wheelbase SUV, amazingly good. I don't have the TT but I do have the ''off road'' package with Bilsteins and traction aids.

The Taco suspension feels flabby and unsettled as compared to the FJC. [TRD off road package]
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,412 Posts
When they changed the engine in 2010 it was a horse power for torque trade off. So yes earlier engines had more torque (low end zip) and newer ones had more hp (higher top end speed). For the type of vehicle the FJ is, l'd pick the torque.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
The initial engine was single Variable Valve Timing on the intake side only.
The new engine is Dual Variable Valve Timing.
The set-up employs heads that are much wider than the previous engine making the oil filter location of the older engine impossible.
The new engine is greener and gets about a mile better fuel economy.
A mile per gallon is money saved for other things that you may want to do to or with your FJ.
Toyota constantly upgrades things as they go along.
Some times it is a new and improved engine; other times it is a different design for the rubber seals for windows and doors.
Park my '12 RRTT next to my '14 TTUE and you will notice that it is different than my '14 in subtle ways, better but the same!
It the Toyota way, Kaisan!….gm
 

·
Desert Moderator
Joined
·
6,522 Posts
I agree with @gaylonw - Our Fortuner has the single VVTI engine and it sounds better, but the Dual VVTI in my FJ has more overall power and uses a lot less fuel even with the FJ's worse aerodynamics.
It is true that the early engine has slightly more peak torque, but the newer engine changes character significantly at the 3500 RPM mark, and I feel the torque delivery is more linear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
As someone else mentioned, if you're looking for an FJ, craigslist can be your friend. I always use the site searchtempest.com it lets you browse multiple cities to find the best deal on a FJ.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Don't get hung up on finding a 2010+. Lots of people suggest that but the 07-09s are usually fine. Know what to look for in regards to fender bulge and transmission shudder. Do a search and you'll find plenty of info. Of course, spend some time underneath looking for rust or leaks.

Some will tell you that the 07-09 have to be run on premium fuel. They don't.

Some are worried about the improper heat treating on some of the 07-09s. It's cheaper to buy an 07-09 and replace the rear diff than it is to buy a 2010+.

Do read up on what to look at for the motor mounts. That would be a big downer to address on a new-to-you rig.

Good luck with your search!
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top