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Discussion Starter #1
I tried searching but didn't couldn't find what I was looking for. Has anyone done a full sound deadening install? What did you use how much did you buy? Would 150 sqft be enough or too much? Results, pics?

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I bought 100 square feet of Fatmat Rattle Trap and covered the floor and sides of the FJ from the back of the front seats back. I did the rear doors, the cargo floor, under the rear seats, and all the way up to the headliner on the sides. I still have quite a bit left and sometime soon I'm going to continue the floor and sides around the front seats, the four side doors, and the firewall. If there is still some left at that point I'll drop the headliner and work on the roof.

I'd say 150 sq ft would do the whole FJ, depending on how much you apply. You only need 25% of each body panel covered to dampen the vibrations and deaden sound. I put on much more than that.

I don't have any photos readily available.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info! I read that fatmat was asphalt based. Did it smell? What did you pay?

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It's definitely more quiet in the rear of the FJ. I've been converting my FJ into a 4WD camper so I also added fiberglass insulation between the frame and body panels in the rear, which of course further deadens the sound. I decided to use the material to deaden outside sounds since my goal is to have a comfortable sleeping area in the rear of the FJ. I want to eliminate noises from other cars if I'm sleeping at a highway rest stop, for example. I think doing the floor under the front seats (where the transmission is) and doing the side doors will help a lot to eliminate road noise.
 

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The fatmat has a black, sticky adhesive but I don't think it's asphalt based. It has no odor, even in the triple digit Utah and Arizona summers. I ordered it from Amazon. Looking at it now, I only bought 50 square feet, not 100. I remember now thinking that what I had left and another 25 square feet would finish the whole FJ. It looks like right now it's $109.95 for 50 sq ft on Amazon.

 

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Rattle Trap is what I used. One 50ft roll was able to cover the front doors, rear door and flooring in the trunk area. I had pics of it but cant seem to find them now.
I have another 50ft roll in the garage that I plan on doing the roof with. After that, I will buy another 50ft to do the floor and rear suicide doors.

Was it worth it? Absolutely. I have a 1400 watt Rockford Fosgate system in my FJ so the rattle trap made a huge difference with sound quality and rattles caused by vibration.
If I could do it again, I would have started with the headliner. Thats where most of the noise from the roof rack, rain, and bass flex are coming from.

Yes, I think 150ft would be enough to deaden the FJ.

If your budget allows, look into Second Skin. They are supposedly the best for sound deadening and are recommended by most in the car audio community. Sadly, my budget doesnt allow for Second Skin products :(

https://www.secondskinaudio.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My budget won't allow for second skin unfortunately. I love the fact that it's made in the USA. I am going to go with noico 80 mil. Figured I would do it top to bottom. Once the seats are out is the vinyl floor a pain to remove/reinstall? Off topic I Was thinking of hiding my 2 amps under the front seats? Anyone else try this?

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I'd say 150 sq ft would do the whole FJ, depending on how much you apply. You only need 25% of each body panel covered to dampen the vibrations and deaden sound. I put on much more than that.
^ this. The manufacturer only recommends a certain amount of the butyl material to dampen vibrations. Then use sound insulation on top 100% coverage like Noico green 170 mil liner. When I redo mine, I am going to use the Noico liner on top of the butyl layer.
 

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I used Noico 80 mil sound deadener as a base, and on top of that I used Noico 170mil for from Amazon. It was installed on the 4 doors and roof. It has dramatically changed the quietness in the cabin and my audio sounds much better! Funny thing is I recently installed the TRD Catback exhaust and I can hear it from my rear door. I ran out of materials, so I can hear that exhaust. It will be fixed as I just ordered more material to finish the rear door! Good luck!!!
 

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I added 2 layers of second skin's damplifier pro on the roof and added a layer of their luxury liner pro. It made a significant difference in reducing the noise from the roof.

The majority of the noise in the FJ comes from the rear wheel wells, the rear floorboard, and surprisingly.....the door handles!!! Now I have driven the FJ now for over 2 years without an interior, and piece-by-piece...... slowly insulated the car. So I am more than qualified to tell you what works and what doesn't work.









-B

P.S. BTW I have over 400lbs of sound insulation in the FJ.
 

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is there any concern, for the sound deadening material on floor damage or mold prior to removal if water gets in during wheeling due to a mistake?
 

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I just finished up with my sounding deadening project. What a difference!

I used:
Damplifier™ Butyl Rope (3/8" x 15') MADE IN USA
Heat Wave Pro™ (4' x 6') = 24 sq feet. Thermal Insulation Radiant Barrier * MADE IN USA ------I USED TWO OF THESE!
Mega'Zorbe Peel & Stick Hydrophobic Melamine 1/2" Foam - 1 Sheet (24"x48" = 8 sqft) -----I USED 6 SHEETS, ouch!
XL Build Package - 120 sq ft of Damplifier Pro & 72 sq ft of Luxury Liner Pro * Made In USA *

I used the Damplifier pro on the doors (inner skin and outer), quarterpanels, wheel wells, tranny tunnel, roof, and pillars.

I used the luxury liner pro on the floors, doors (inner skin only), wheel wells, and some of the rear panels. I used everything I could, but to do the rear pillars, I would've needed a bit more.

I used the Heat wave pro for the roof, and under the foot wells, back to under the seats. I also fit a layer under the rear trunk floor.

For the roof, I did a layer of damplifier pro, then I glued on a layer of Heat wave pro, then a layer of Melamine. That melamine is a great product! Expensive as hell though!

I used melamine everywhere I could, door cavities, pillar cavities, roof, and any scraps went to the back of panels.

Butyl rope went behind door supports and roof supports.

As far as material consumption, I used every square inch of melamine, I could've-would've used more if I had it. I had exactly what I needed for butyl rope, damplifier pro, luxury liner and heatwave. I literally only have slivers and scraps left over. The results are fantastic. Slight wind noise from my cow catcher roof rack, but it is very comfortable and quiet. Totally worth the time and money investment. My advice is this: You only want to do this ONCE, it takes a lot of time and effort. Don't skimp on the products and make sure you have everything you need on hand. I bought an industrial set of scissor from McMaster carr. They have coated handles and the cutting edges are about 8" long. They are are serious business, but they cut all the materials with precision and little effort. Way better than using a knife! Buy extra door clips from Amazon before hand, you'll probably break a few when you put the door panels back on, if you have enough material behind them. Also, second skin will have 20% off coupons around the holidays! Keep an eye out for them around the 4th.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Doc, blown thanks for the replies! I ended up scoring a 36 square ft box of dynamat for 30 bucks on letgo. Best score ever! B thanks for the pics that gives me some ideas to run wiring for my stereo system and cameras. Also great job on the mat install! Waiting for the rest of my noico deadening to come in the mail. Did you guys install aftermarket stereo systems after the sound deadening or just wanted reduced road noise?

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Doc, blown thanks for the replies! I ended up scoring a 36 square ft box of dynamat for 30 bucks on letgo. Best score ever! B thanks for the pics that gives me some ideas to run wiring for my stereo system and cameras. Also great job on the mat install! Waiting for the rest of my noico deadening to come in the mail. Did you guys install aftermarket stereo systems after the sound deadening or just wanted reduced road noise?

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I wanted both!

I already had a Kenwood Excelon dnx994s, but while I had everything out, I installed a JL VX1000/5i, Morel 6.5 Hybrid components in stock locations running active, and a used WickedCAS fiberglass sub box with two JL10w3v3's. Pretty nice little setup, I'm happy with it. Really like the active crossovers and DSP.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I wanted both!



I already had a Kenwood Excelon dnx994s, but while I had everything out, I installed a JL VX1000/5i, Morel 6.5 Hybrid components in stock locations running active, and a used WickedCAS fiberglass sub box with two JL10w3v3's. Pretty nice little setup, I'm happy with it. Really like the active crossovers and DSP.
Good call on the Kenwood. I bought the dnx995s. I also bought the wicked cas box but unfortunately had to buy new. Hoping they fit my alpine type r 10d4 subs. They are very close matched to those JL w3v3 subs as far as mount depth and size. Glad you like the setup. This is gonna be my first install with sound deadening so I'm curious to see what the fuss is about. Can't wait!

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I wanted both!



I already had a Kenwood Excelon dnx994s, but while I had everything out, I installed a JL VX1000/5i, Morel 6.5 Hybrid components in stock locations running active, and a used WickedCAS fiberglass sub box with two JL10w3v3's. Pretty nice little setup, I'm happy with it. Really like the active crossovers and DSP.
Good call on the Kenwood. I bought the dnx995s. I also bought the wicked cas box but unfortunately had to buy new. Hoping they fit my alpine type r 10d4 subs. They are very close matched to those JL w3v3 subs as far as mount depth and size. Glad you like the setup. This is gonna be my first install with sound deadening so I'm curious to see what the fuss is about. Can't wait!

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Let me know if the Type R’s fit the box. I have one from an old project and I loved it. Wouldn’t mind picking up another and using them instead of the w3’s
 

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Just check the foam padding underneath the plastic floor liner. If it's not moldy then you're good to go. If it is moldy just scrap it off and wipe it clean.

-B

is there any concern, for the sound deadening material on floor damage or mold prior to removal if water gets in during wheeling due to a mistake?
 

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I went off the deep end on my stereo build. 10 speakers, 4 subs, 3 amps, and a sound processor.

Here's a photo of my "woofers" :rofl:



Here's a shot of the A-pillars:





Doc, blown thanks for the replies! I ended up scoring a 36 square ft box of dynamat for 30 bucks on letgo. Best score ever! B thanks for the pics that gives me some ideas to run wiring for my stereo system and cameras. Also great job on the mat install! Waiting for the rest of my noico deadening to come in the mail. Did you guys install aftermarket stereo systems after the sound deadening or just wanted reduced road noise?

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