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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently put in a 3" Old Man Emu lift kit. Last weekend, while four-wheeling at about 10,000ft in the mountains of Utah, I broke my CV joint and axle on the front, driver side.

The dealer said they'd cover it under warranty, this time, but that I needed to install CV spacers because of the lift. WTH are CV spacers and where does one get them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
they might be talking about the front diff drop. check the very bottom of this link. could be wrong, but this is my guess at what they mean.

FJ Cruiser Shopping Cart for Toyteclifts.com

Thanks for a starting point! I e-mailed Toytec, which is the company that made my lift in the first place, about whether the product you suggested is what Toyota requires -- and about what Toyota said concerning lift kits (i.e., that a 3" lift kit on an FJ REQUIRES these "CV spacers," whatever the hell they are, or Toyota will invalidate one's warranty as to CV joints, front axels, etc.). Where this is the case, Toytec, among others, should be selling the damn "spacers" WITH the lift kits!
 

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I have never heard of anyone selling CV spacers. The way the axle sits in there that is nonsense. But they prob did mean the diff drop. It will help a little but not that much, just helps. Pretty much on any of the toyotas if you lift the front over actual 2.5" that is where you run in to CV problems. A true 3" lift while does clear tires also inherently hurts the CV boots and the joint it self. Generally they last long enough and replacement axles can usually be found pretty cheap, so if you don't mind replacing them once in a while its no big deal.
 

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I have the OME 3" lift and have had no CV issues, and I have been wheelin it pretty hard, now I am upgrading to a 6" lift and now I am a little worried about the CV's.
 

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I am curious as to what your dealer was refering to exactly. Could you possibly have them coonfirm what they told you and let all of us know?
 

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The last two times I have been out I have snapped axleshafts. I dont have the spacer/drop but am going to look in on it. I have a 6" lift.

Here is a video of my axles snapping. Drivers side three seconds in, passenger 25 seconds in. I am also running 35's and a locker.

Is there an upgrade? Please let me know if anyone knows of one!!
Thank goodness for rev limiters or you would have blown the motor too!
 

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The first one snapped because it bounced. When the tire leaves the ground (or is spinning in the mud) it is no longer under load, when it touches the ground (or a spot of traction in this case) it is instantly stopped and put under full load, that is the common reason for CV breakage. When the front end comes up, you must lay off the throttle or that is the result unfortunately. You should consider a little less skinny peddle and a little lower gearing. Mud is evil BTW. Your truck will have many more issues in the future if you subject it to that kind of abuse.
 

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dealers have no clue when it comes to aftermarket parts. Be a little easier on the fjc when you wheel. Dont turn to full lock and gas it.
I am amazed they covered the cv under warrenty at all.

just be easy and feel how your rig responds and you wont break cv's......very often at least:thinkerg:
 

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yea, thats why I have a shift light set conservatively on my GPW. Light goes on, I back off.

Any ideas on the cv shaft issues?
gsgmac explained the issue well. Sudden on and off again traction will do it, also severe CV angle is problematic. Since you have a 6" lift you should have a drop bracket for the differential, this lessens the severe angles the CV joint is subjected to.

Sorry, mixed you up with lifted Alaskan.
 

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Let's just say that your dealership mechanic has his cranium positioned well into his own rectum.

Not only was his warning stupid, but he probably didn't have to warranty your CV axle. Therefore, I suggest you smile, say thank you, and leave well enough alone. ;)

A 3" lift kit rotates the A arms to a different resting position within the SAME arc of movement that they went through before the kit was installed. Toyota installs Revtek 3" kits at the dealership. There's no difference to the front CV axle between the various kits.

The front suspension moves as a nearly perfect parallelogram. The distance that the CV axle has to reach across is essentially uniform throughout the suspension's travel.

The reason that a CV axle snaps is because it's torqued against resistance while the joint is at a maximal angle. It helps if you've got the suspension fully drooped, the wheel turned to full lock, and you're using a bit of skinny pedal to get through a low traction situation. If the tire goes from spinning to hooked up in a hurry, the shock load on the CV joint can be easily enough to blow out the bearing retainer ring inside.
 

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+1 to what the 'doc said.

I was also under the impression that a true locker on an IFS is a recipe for broken CVs. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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yea, thats why I have a shift light set conservatively on my GPW. Light goes on, I back off.

Any ideas on the cv shaft issues?
Yup, no offense but driving like a kook will break stuff. It is fun but that's what old fat axle trucks are for. I dont believe any stock vehicle these days is made for high reving bouncing and slopping around in the sticky stuff. Mabey with a straight axle up front but then next goes your pumpkin gears.
dont get me wrong, the FJ can get to that point but plan on spending some cash!!
 

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I don't recommend running the differential drop down 1" spacer kits at all! I ran them after installing Donahoes with 3" of lift on my wifes 03' 4runner. We went up a mountain trail, and I started climbing a rutted section and herd a snap..backed down only to find that it caused alot of damage!! First it broke the driverside differential support then causing the differential to shift to the passengerside-thus pulling the driverside axel out tearing the boot and dropping out the bearings on the ground. By the time I was able to limp down it had caused even more damage--The other diff. support then broke causing it to only be held by the rear support. {Turning off the 4wd then does not stop the axels from turning} so it also cracked the aluminum oil pan, by the diffential twistng upward.. I had to unbolt the skid plates and the front driveshaft to stop any additional damage. So why are the diff. drops no good? Because the put too much stress by twistng the diff. supports when bolted up. The rear support for the diff. doesn't change positions, thus causing the front of the diff. to swing downward to add the spacers in,causing the stress to be on the support arms when bolted up. Bottom Line__THEY SUCK!!!
 
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