[apakuni]

Anyone replace the stock speakers yet? If so, can you share the required speaker sizes? I am specing out audio for my rig and need to know what to look for.

I am looking a component systems like these from Crutchfield.

Thanks,

Doug

 

[ajstoy]

first thing! have to be comfortable inside...went with boston aquistics.....replaced the dash, 6.5 coaxles in the front door, 6.5 mids in the rear (custome in back seat, side walls)...went for sound quality..took the ones out of the rear pillars..not worth much, and sound was to be lacking...good luck

 

[ZenPunk]

Are you doing all the work yourself? Do you have a budget in mind?

 

[apakuni]

Well, I am putting in the Kenwood DNX8120 as my head unit. So, that should give you an idea of my budget. I had the earlier model of this unit in my old FJ with stock speakers and it was fine. However, in the new FJ, I want cleaner sound and plan to add a powered sub.

I probably won't do the work myself. Electronics make me nervous.

Thanks for the help.

Doug

 

[ZenPunk]

You might get a better deal, by going to a good install shop and getting everything from them.

I have these speakers for components.

Morel Loudspeakers - Mobile Audio - 3 Way Component Systems - Elate

They are expensive but have great sound.

You also might want to get an amp to push the speakers.

The one to ask and help you decide would be Briman.

 

[DevDvr]

Short anwser to your question is the dash speakers are 2.5 inch, the door speakers are 6x9's and the rear piller speakers if you got the fjammer are also 2.5 inch. Some people have fit tweeters to 4 1/2 in the dash and rear and for the doors some have fit 8 inch speakers to 6x9's to the most popular 6 1/2. by making there own adapters out of MDF or wood . if you do your own install try not to use the existing wiring that's there for the stock speakers because you will only run into problems.
hope this helps

 

[t0ked]

The wiring is quirky so you'll need to keep things in mind. The doors and dash are wired together off the front channels. The rear pillar, headliner transducers, and the signal to the sub are off the rear channels. Things have to be wired accordingly so that the resistance is something the amp/head unit can handle. If you are putting full range 6x9 in the doors and only using tweeters in the dash with a bass filter, the stock wiring configuration will be fine. I have Boston 6x9 in the doors with stock dash speakers running off an AVIC-D3. Works well and sounds good. I will be putting tweeters in the dash and moving the stockers to the rear pillar. The D3 should be able to handle that load comfortably.

 

[Rump]

The wiring is quirky so you'll need to keep things in mind. The doors and dash are wired together off the front channels. The rear pillar, headliner transducers, and the signal to the sub are off the rear channels. Things have to be wired accordingly so that the resistance is something the amp/head unit can handle. If you are putting full range 6x9 in the doors and only using tweeters in the dash with a bass filter, the stock wiring configuration will be fine. I have Boston 6x9 in the doors with stock dash speakers running off an AVIC-D3. Works well and sounds good. I will be putting tweeters in the dash and moving the stockers to the rear pillar. The D3 should be able to handle that load comfortably.

So on my '08 TT I see the FJammer 9 speaker upgrade. I'm only able to find 7 speakers (including sub). So the missing two are transducers up in the headliner?

 

[FJoel]

So on my '08 TT I see the FJammer 9 speaker upgrade. I'm only able to find 7 speakers (including sub). So the missing two are transducers up in the headliner?

Yeppers. They are in the headliner.

For replacements:

I recently bought a pair of JL Audio TR350-CXi speakers and plan to aqcuire another set to put in the rear pillars. This set is going in the dash.

Then I want the JL Audio TR650-CXi for the doors, as I have already replaced the stock sub with the JL Audio 8W1V2. Unfortunately the stock amp is not powerful enough to move the huge magnet on the new driver so I will also be getting a Slash 2501V2 and hiding it next to the inverter behind the passenger side wheel well. I hate seeing wiring and amplifiers... the name of my game is CLEAN.

The headliner speakers will remain untouched, and someday the FJammer will go but that day hasn't come and won't for a while.

 

[NestahEdition]

The JL Audio 8W1V2 subwoofer is perfect replacement for the the whimpy factory sub. Yes, FJoel is right that you must upgrade or install a decent mono amp to fully appreciate/get the excellent features of the JL Audio 8W1V2. I mounted amp under the driver seat.

The sound is great and looks good too.

 

[Rump]

So where is the stock amp for the stock sub?

The stock sub put out plenty of bottom for me. Hell I keep the BASS setting on the FJammer between -1 and 2, depending on the genre of music I'm listening to. The problem is its a muddy, cheap speaker. I listen to a lot of old bebop (Mingus, Horace Silver, Bud Powell), old reggae (Old Bob Marley and Toots and the Maytals), rock that ranges from Sigur Ros to The Band to Kings of Leon. Would upgrading to a JL/Polk/Kicker with an even more powerful amp be throwing money away?

In my 02 Taco Ext Cab that I traded for the FJ I had:
4 Fosgate 6.5 (Power series)
kept the crappy stock tweeters up in the dash
And installed a Bazooka RS 300? It was a 6.5 powered by 300 watts.

I know a lot of audio enthusiasts would consider it a Mickey Mouse setup but it sounded damn good to me! I also realize that I'm now dealing with a lot more cabin space with the new FJ.

So if I do this piece by piece, would I be better served to upgrade the 6x9s or the sub? I've been kinda eyeing the Polk MMC690's.

I know thats a lot of questions! Thanks in advance, guys!

 

[NestahEdition]

The stock amp for the stock sub is located inside the sub box.

 

[Rump]

So once you upgrade the sub and the amp theres not enough room for the new amp to go in there as well? Seems like folks are moving 'em all over the place.

And I apologize if these are totally moronic questions.

 

[FJoel]

So once you upgrade the sub and the amp theres not enough room for the new amp to go in there as well? Seems like folks are moving 'em all over the place.

And I apologize if these are totally moronic questions.

I wouldn't put the new amp in the box... it likely won't fit anyway.

If you pull back some panels and remove the sub etc you will find a lot of room where the inverter is or should be. I am putting my amp tucked away in there. Plenty of breathing room as well, which is why Toyota picked this spot for the inverter. My amp may even fit on the inverter with some standoffs...

You can't just upgrade the sub... the stock amp won't move it! Trust me on that one.

 

[Rump]

Yea I'm gathering that from the fact that no one is doing it

I'm just gonna have to get a pistol and a tow kit for now and bone up on what setup works best for me.

 

[Jamie_e12]

Will 3.5 Fit in the dash and the rear D pillar? Also Im looking for the gagues that have the temp, and compass on it do you know where i can locate this item

 

[VooDude]

Will 3.5 Fit in the dash and the rear D pillar? Also Im looking for the gagues that have the temp, and compass on it do you know where i can locate this item

You probably could make it work, but I would suggest running a set of 6.5 components.

Put the 6.5 woofer in the door using an adapter (crutchfield includes them) or you could buy them from any of the vendor here or make them yourself. I got mine from tacotunes.com for about $30 shipped.

Put the tweeter in the dash location. Make a "tweeter bracket" using anything that will work. I used the plastic that held the speaker in the box from Alpine with some dynamat on it to stiffen it a bit.

There are endless options in the rear, but you can read about them all over this forum.

 

[kyhouston]

These speakers (transducers?) in the headliner...what do you guys recommend replacing them with? I never could really hear them one of them recently crapped out on me. Sounds like a voice coil is shot. AM radio and vocals give me that vibrating, buzzy sound, which is worse than no sound at all. I don't need a spectacular speaker...just something that won't blow again. I have a sunroof and it may be tricky to get the rear part of the headliner down, so I don't want to have to replace them again.

Kevin

 

[Bang Bang]

Don't bother replacing them....just disconnect them. You won't be able to fit real speakers up in the headliner anyway. If you search, there are a few threads on how to disconnect them by unplugging them at the driver's kick panel.

 

[kyhouston]

The JL Audio 8W1V2 subwoofer is perfect replacement for the the whimpy factory sub. Yes, FJoel is right that you must upgrade or install a decent mono amp to fully appreciate/get the excellent features of the JL Audio 8W1V2. I mounted amp under the driver seat.

The sound is great and looks good too.

That does look nice and similar to the OEM one. I love the 8" JL that I have in my MR2. It's great in that small cabin.

I'm curious to know what amp and wattage you have under the seat going to the sub. Is it a punchier bass, a deeper lower "gut-feeling" bass, or both. An 8" sub is not going shake walls from around the corner, but I'm asking for the qualitative difference from the stock one.

I really don't want to start the audiophile stereo upgrades on my FJ that I've done with most of the vehicles I've owned.