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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have wanted to reinforce my spindles with strong weld-on supports for some time now, but needed a vendor to supply those gussets who I could trust to support the product. There were less-than-reliable people out there selling similar products and I didn't want to use them for obvious reasons.

FINALLY it's happened!

DeMello Offroad is selling the new Total Chaos Spindle Gussets! Jason didn't tell me about it. I had to find out about it by looking on his website. Talk about inexpensive protection for a rig that you want to wheel.

At this moment, I'm sitting in a hotel in Moab, UT having run the Kokopelli Trail (Grand Junction, CO to Moab) with SHADOW-WARRIOR, TCAO, JESHUA, DRAGON, FJ-OLLIE and FROGEYE.



Photo from today - JESHUA at the "Top of the World"



Photo from today - DRAGON coming down the Rose Garden.

And this is the point. If you take a hard impact on a rock, the stock spindles tend to bend. Nobody intends to take an impact like that but it happens. The Total Chaos gussets that DeMello is now selling will deal with that problem and the cost is very reasonable.

This isn't an add for DeMello. It's a guy sitting in a hotel in Moab who found a solution - from a vendor with a proven track record of supporting their customers.:bigthumb:

I'll buy these as soon as I get back from Moab.
 

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Please note:

These gussets can be installed with aftermarket UCA’s or long travel suspension systems and are not compatible with stock upper control arms. You will loose the use of your sway bar with these gussets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Please note:

These gussets can be installed with aftermarket UCA’s or long travel suspension systems and are not compatible with stock upper control arms. You will loose the use of your sway bar with these gussets.
That's absolutely right, Kurt.

But I've been looking for a smart way to eliminate the front sway bar for greater articulation, while keeping the strength I need.

Here are a couple more candid photos from today:



JESHUA high centered on a rock.



Winch recovery by FJ-OLLIE.

In this case, JESHUA was moving low and slow and there wasn't any spindle damage, but I've seen similar situations where it happened. The ROSE GARDEN Trail is a classic example: You SLIDE down the Rose Garden because it's steep and the rocks are loose. You don't have much control over how fast you hit some of the rock and ledge obstacles.
 

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Larry....Don't for a second think I'm telling you to buy from someone you're not comfortable with.....

But your first post forced me straight to Demellos site ('cause I want some too) But we played the "remove sway bar" game and tested it quite hard....major mods need to happen before you go removing your sway bar and I also didn't think you swapped your UCA's yet....

So it was strictly an observation I wanted to point out....

And....If the whole front has to come off anyways( see Doc's thread on the others)....You might as well have something custom made for your aplication
 

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Please note:

These gussets can be installed with aftermarket UCA’s or long travel suspension systems and are not compatible with stock upper control arms. You will loose the use of your sway bar with these gussets.
Beg to differ but you definitely can install them with the stock UCA's. I have them, no problem. I took them to Costa Mesa Muffler and the owner did a beautiful job for $40.00 in about 20 minutes. I attached each gusset to the spindle with a nut and bolt so they were exactly how I wanted them welded in place and I gave him a picture of the gusset welded on for the welder to see.

It is quite a bit of work tearing everything apart and you need new seals for the job. Mir has some good pics posted here about the TC gussets.

FYI You could easily grind some material away and still install the sway bar. I just don't want that damn thing anymore.
 

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That's absolutely right, Kurt.

But I've been looking for a smart way to eliminate the front sway bar for greater articulation, while keeping the strength I need.
Just so everyone not technically oriented understands, the sway bar has nothing to do with the strength of the front (or rear) suspension - it's only purpose is to keep your wheels planted on the ground when cornering. So when off-roading, this becomes an issue - you may want to have the additional articulation a sway bar can prevent. On the road, however, a sway bar can make a tremendous difference in handling at speed, or during an emergency maneuver, especially in a lifted or heavy vehicle whose center of gravity or weight distribution has been compromised.

Spindle strength is a separate issue - nothing to do with handling, or the sway bar directly, and not a concern on the highway. The factory spindle can be a weak point if the front suspension slams into something with any kind of force- such as that you would encounter off-road, and can bend, rendering steering difficult, if not impossible. :mecry:

Because spindle strength is an off-road issue, and removing a sway bar is beneficial off-road, the TC spindle reinforcements are not designed with concern for the front sway bar. This is the only thing that has prevented me from installing them so far, as the majority of my driving is on road, and the sway bar helps a great deal when you are forced to swerve to avoid an idiot at speed...:flame:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The part is important (I rarely use the Scorpion for daily use anymore) and the proper application of the part is very important. Finding a reputable vendor, such as Dirty Parts to do business with is also a key part of the equation because there are vendors out there who are "part pushers" & do not have the customer's best interests at heart.

Knowing who you can and can't trust to support your purchases and to provide you sound advice (like CRUISERLARRY) is key. CRUISERLARRY has earned a solid reputation for quality at every level of his enterprise.
 

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Larry's.....up and Cruiser....

My problem with the lack of swaybar off road is.... the upper a-arm laying on the spring is the bottom limiting factor....and when that tire goes full airborn(full extention)...the a-arm hits the spring HARD!!!....

something(strap) has to be put in place before removing the swaybar....

And the on-highway thing....just plain dangerous!!!

Driver side photo....the passenger side clears the spring for some reason...
 

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The part is important (I rarely use the Scorpion for daily use anymore) and the proper application of the part is very important. Finding a reputable vendor, such as Dirty Parts to do business with is also a key part of the equation because there are vendors out there who are "part pushers" & do not have the customer's best interests at heart.

Knowing who you can and can't trust to support your purchases and to provide you sound advice (like CRUISERLARRY) is key. CRUISERLARRY has earned a solid reputation for quality at every level of his enterprise.
It is an honor to be mentioned twice in a single Uphill post...:bouncy:

I thank you, sir...:cheers:
 

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The part is important (I rarely use the Scorpion for daily use anymore) and the proper application of the part is very important. Finding a reputable vendor, such as Dirty Parts to do business with is also a key part of the equation because there are vendors out there who are "part pushers" & do not have the customer's best interests at heart.

Knowing who you can and can't trust to support your purchases and to provide you sound advice (like CRUISERLARRY) is key. CRUISERLARRY has earned a solid reputation for quality at every level of his enterprise.
Hehe (i'm with you) I flinged a boogy or two myself at certain peeps (unknown to them) during summit.
I fully expected a full on jello wrestling match before dinner.

Jason D was working on a spindle solution to keep the sway bar. Mine were a bit "modified" and didn't fit gusset, I was going to wait for things to quite down after summit. Try him and check if he has that relief mod finished.
 

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Larry's.....up and Cruiser....

My problem with the lack of swaybar off road is.... the upper a-arm laying on the spring is the bottom limiting factor....and when that tire goes full airborn(full extention)...the a-arm hits the spring HARD!!!....

something(strap) has to be put in place before removing the swaybar....

And the on-highway thing....just plain dangerous!!!
My experience with landcruisers has been that the swaybars do not inhibit articulation as they do on other vehicles, so I've never been inclined to remove them for off road use. Others have had bad experiences with the sway bar links breaking, causing ripped axle boots and damaged axles, so I understand why some folks might want to remove them when out on the trail.

I am curious to see if using an aftermarket UCA would reduce / eliminate the contact with the coilover, as they are designed for more articulation. I have Icon UCAs, but I have the sway bar, too - and have no contact problem.

I suppose you could weld up a bump stop plate to the side of the coilover tower, or add a limiting strap, and do without the sway bar. But I would rather keep my sway bar on for street safety.

Hopefully a reinforced spindle will show up on the horizon, and make the gusset issue moot....:)
 

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My experience with landcruisers has been that the swaybars do not inhibit articulation as they do on other vehicles, so I've never been inclined to remove them for off road use. Others have had bad experiences with the sway bar links breaking, causing ripped axle boots and damaged axles, so I understand why some folks might want to remove them when out on the trail.

I am curious to see if using an aftermarket UCA would reduce / eliminate the contact with the coilover, as they are designed for more articulation. I have Icon UCAs, but I have the sway bar, too - and have no contact problem.

I suppose you could weld up a bump stop plate to the side of the coilover tower, or add a limiting strap, and do without the sway bar. But I would rather keep my sway bar on for street safety.

Hopefully a reinforced spindle will show up on the horizon, and make the gusset issue moot....:)
On the FJ (mine at least) you gain 2" with out the rear sway bar, and 1/2" to no change removal of front. This, based on both wheels off the ground (droop.) you lose droop with them intact individually as they are doing there job..
 

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On the FJ (mine at least) you gain 2" with out the rear sway bar, and 1/2" to no change removal of front. This, based on both wheels off the ground (droop.) you lose droop with them intact individually as they are doing there job..
I'm using the Overland XT Billet extended rear sway bar links, and the difference between sway bar / no sway bar is now much less for me. I wasn't suggesting there is no difference, however, just that for me the difference off-road wasn't work the compromise on road...:)
 
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