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Great write up! I followed your lead & fixed my FJ. Cost was a can of contact cleaner! Thanks! Works great now
 

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Update about a month later the starter parts corroded again & same issue wont start. I bought a rebuld kit for the solinoid for 30$ on ebay this should fix the problem. I wouls go ahead & install the new parts while the starter is out. I is a pain to get out.
 

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Had a 2nd Gen 4Runner and was able to rebuild the starter contacts with factory Toyota replacement parts. Someone on Yotatech figured out the PN# for those copper contacts and it was a dirt cheap thing to do. IIRC it was under $20 for all the copper contacts and related parts to rebuild with Toyota OEM parts. I rebuilt mine at 80K and it was still running strong at 160 when I sold it to buy the FJ :)

Where could we look up those PN# on the FJ?
 

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Great write up, it was very helpful when I had to replace mine at 114,000 miles. That top bolt was a PIA. Ended up removing the 4 bolts in the front drive shaft, didn't take long and created enough space to remove the top bolt with ease and remove starter from the bottom. I recommend getting the drive shaft out of the way, makes it much easier. The bolts are crazy tight so you need room under there to brake the bolts. Installed the Duralast starter from Autozone ($116.00). It is smaller and doesn't look much like the OEM starter, but it fits up and works great. Will have to see how long it lasts. I'll post back if it turns out to be junk.
 

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Went to go replace mine.. looked easy.. but the bottom bolt stripped out with the first turn of the wrench...

Any ideas on how to get a bolt off? and mine was a 14mm not 17mm (2007?)
 

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Went to go replace mine.. looked easy.. but the bottom bolt stripped out with the first turn of the wrench...

Any ideas on how to get a bolt off? and mine was a 14mm not 17mm (2007?)
You stripped just the head? Just get a damaged bolt remover
 

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You stripped just the head? Just get a damaged bolt remover
Spent 5+ hours on this repair today. My 2007 MT6 was also 14mm bolts, NOT 17mm. Bottom of the 2 bolts came off no problem. Top one never did come off. Used a cheater bar for the assist and I stripped it, so went to the damaged bolt repair gear, which did no good. I've successfully removed damaged bolts in the past - not on this one. Used the same bit for both bolts, but one gave way rather than coming off.

Gonna have to send it off to the shop = major bummer :mecry:

Will update when I get it back from the shop.
---

UPDATE: I AM A MORON.

Battery was trash. Voltage was plenty high enough, but CCA were WAY too low. Replaced the battery, reconnected everything and I am good to go. Just gonna leave my FUBAR top bolt on the starter the way I left it.

When I turned the key to start, I got a lot of very fast clicking, like it was trying over and over and over. That seems to be the key difference: I hear that when the starter fails, you're only going to get one click per turn to start (?).

Anyway. Being dumb is hard. The battery we removed was the original from 2007.
 

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I'm having this same problem, however I am not seeing how you guys got the starter out through the top either.. I have a 2010. Is there something I am missing?
 

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I'm having this same problem, however I am not seeing how you guys got the starter out through the top either.. I have a 2010. Is there something I am missing?
You need to disconnect some of the stuff in the way and remove a bracket or 2, it will fit, just need to be creative. You'll need to twist it a few times during the removal.
 

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This post is awesome! :rocker: My 07 FJ started doing this recently. Dealership wanted $115 just to diagnose the problem.

I found a Solenoid Repair Kit on Amazon for $15 that I'll probably get. Might as well rebuild it while I have it out. :bigthumb:

:cheers:
I just had the same issue, my starter was caked with muddy water so I bought a new starter off amazon brand new for 90 plus 10 for shipping. Took my old one out and didnt even need the rebuild kit, just cleaned it out, cleaned the contacts and I put it on a battery to test it. works perfect, so now I have a spare. It it pretty easy.:cheers:
 

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I really enjoy this kind of maintenence. You can't pay someone to just clean something off, there's obviously less liability in total replacement. The car dealerships seem to epitomize that idea. I'm hoping I can get the same user-friendliness out of my FJ that I've found in boat engines and old VW's.

-John.
I just wanted to swing by and thank you for this write-up... mine took a dunk in da mud last week, and has been all click-clack start ever since... I've gotta do this soon, but thank heavens its free.

To your point above, it is always nice when component problems can be solved in a garage.... It reminds me of olden times... my 1949 International has rebuild-able EVERYTHING... I really enjoyed rebuilding the shock absorbers (similar to commercial door closers, really) and re-filling them with motor oil :clap:
 

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Thanks for the post and the extra pictures. Did mine for the first time today, took 1 hour, probably could do it in 20 minutes now. I didn't even move anything out of the way to lift the starter out the top.
 

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You need to disconnect some of the stuff in the way and remove a bracket or 2, it will fit, just need to be creative. You'll need to twist it a few times during the removal.
Oh this is helpful...

Does anyone else have idea how to get this starter out of a 2010+ they are not set up the same.
Removing the starter on 2007 was not simple, once disconnected, getting it out was the problem. It appeared as though it couldn't be done without removing other components.

Also this post was a follow-up to this post which had pictures posted for how to get it out, there were no indications within the posts that a 2010 had a different set-up. I assume you didn't bother to read the entire thread. http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/engine-performance/36665-starter-removal-repair-2.html#post1917663

I suggest contacting a dealer if this is beyond your ability.
 

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Not sure if it is different than your early ones but on my 2010 In addition to what was pointed out already in the pictures (Thanks!) We took the upper control arm off the drivers side, its one nut that is really easy to get to and the heat shield from the heads and you have plenty of room to take it out the top.

Mine was also just full of mud and corroded. Cleaned her up, installed breather tubes, and we are good to go.
 
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