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I got this done over the weekend and wanted to confirm that I didn't have to remove the front differential or pull the AC compressor. Instead I pulled off the Oil filter housing, the front sway bar, and the body mount bolts for the front diff and was able to pull it out and put it back in through the front as long as one or both of the tie rods were off of the steering rack. I DID cut one of the two bolts that hold the steering rack on so make sure to buy replacements. When you put it back together install the rack bolts upside down.

Parts I ordered.

90171-14042 - x2 - Tie Rod End Castle Nuts. You may not need to get these but mine were in awful shape.

44200-35103 - Gear Assembly - This includes the steering rack and full tie rods (minus castle nuts).

90119-14138 - x2 - Gear Assembly Mount Bolt - One of these are cut when I took it out to make it way easier of a job.

90178-A0058 - x2 - Gear Assembly Nut - If your doing the bolt you may as well do the nut.

A tip I learned... Pull the front sway bar as one of your first steps as it will let you get your hands in to do the rest more easily

Overall It took me 6 hours id say but it could be 3-4 if I had to do it again now that I know what i'm doing.
 

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MOAB SUPERSTAR
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6,107 Posts
I got this done over the weekend and wanted to confirm that I didn't have to remove the front differential or pull the AC compressor. Instead I pulled off the Oil filter housing, the front sway bar, and the body mount bolts for the front diff and was able to pull it out and put it back in through the front as long as one or both of the tie rods were off of the steering rack. I DID cut one of the two bolts that hold the steering rack on so make sure to buy replacements. When you put it back together install the rack bolts upside down.

Parts I ordered.

90171-14042 - x2 - Tie Rod End Castle Nuts. You may not need to get these but mine were in awful shape.

44200-35103 - Gear Assembly - This includes the steering rack and full tie rods (minus castle nuts).

90119-14138 - x2 - Gear Assembly Mount Bolt - One of these are cut when I took it out to make it way easier of a job.

90178-A0058 - x2 - Gear Assembly Nut - If your doing the bolt you may as well do the nut.

A tip I learned... Pull the front sway bar as one of your first steps as it will let you get your hands in to do the rest more easily

Overall It took me 6 hours id say but it could be 3-4 if I had to do it again now that I know what i'm doing.
You did this in your driveway? If so, props to you - it’s a beast of a job :rocker:
 

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What year is your FJ? When you say you moved the oil filter housing it makes me think this may only work for certain model year FJ's only is all. I've never had to do it yet but good to know.
I did this on my 2012 so I assume it would at least be 2012 - 2014
 

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My rack was fine but the bushings were shot. Using the original post as a guide and a BIG THANKS as I found it very helpful. I also did this in my garage and did not have to pull the diff assembly down but I did remove the front 2 support bolts and cut the drivers side bolt. I did remove the bolts of the A/C compressor, removed the drivers side tie rods, moved the rack as if turning right and slid the rack right out. Start working the oem bushings out with chisels, start small from side to side and gradually using larger chisels to get the collar up, switching to an air chisel will drive it up and out. the other half you can drive out from the inside. Good luck all. Again thanks for the original write up.
 

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I got this done over the weekend and wanted to confirm that I didn't have to remove the front differential or pull the AC compressor. Instead I pulled off the Oil filter housing, the front sway bar, and the body mount bolts for the front diff and was able to pull it out and put it back in through the front as long as one or both of the tie rods were off of the steering rack. I DID cut one of the two bolts that hold the steering rack on so make sure to buy replacements. When you put it back together install the rack bolts upside down.

Parts I ordered.

90171-14042 - x2 - Tie Rod End Castle Nuts. You may not need to get these but mine were in awful shape.

44200-35103 - Gear Assembly - This includes the steering rack and full tie rods (minus castle nuts).

90119-14138 - x2 - Gear Assembly Mount Bolt - One of these are cut when I took it out to make it way easier of a job.

90178-A0058 - x2 - Gear Assembly Nut - If your doing the bolt you may as well do the nut.

A tip I learned... Pull the front sway bar as one of your first steps as it will let you get your hands in to do the rest more easily

Overall It took me 6 hours id say but it could be 3-4 if I had to do it again now that I know what i'm doing.
I need to do this job over the weekend on a 5th gen 4runner (Which is essentially the same I believe). When you said you needed to remove the oil filter housing did you completely unbolt it from the engine block? If so did you replace the gasket? Or did you just remove the oil filter and plastic canister? Was hoping it was the latter but I know the room is pretty tight in there. Many thanks
 

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My rack was fine but the bushings were shot. Using the original post as a guide and a BIG THANKS as I found it very helpful. I also did this in my garage and did not have to pull the diff assembly down but I did remove the front 2 support bolts and cut the drivers side bolt. I did remove the bolts of the A/C compressor, removed the drivers side tie rods, moved the rack as if turning right and slid the rack right out. Start working the oem bushings out with chisels, start small from side to side and gradually using larger chisels to get the collar up, switching to an air chisel will drive it up and out. the other half you can drive out from the inside. Good luck all. Again thanks for the original write up.
So it looks like you didn't go the route of cutting the rack bolts out and that is why the AC compressor was removed? Were you able to slide the rack out from the front by removing the oil filter bracket (Diagram attached)?
 

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