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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys/Gals,
I am pretty new here to the Forum and I've been sifting over threads and information for days now and haven't found exactly what I'm looking for and I hope someone can help me.

I purchased a used 07’ FJ TRD (8 speaker, no sub) this past December and have been waiting for a little warmer weather (im in PA) to start my audio system reconstruction. This weekend I swapped my FJammer unit for a Kenwood Excelon DNX-6960. I purchased a wiring harness from Crutchfield to simplify the wiring process behind the dash.

I am also in possession of the following:
A pair of Boston 6.5”s (SR65) I plan on putting in the door
A pair of Boston 4”s and 3.5”s (S45 and S35) I plan on putting in the dash and rear pillar respectively
A Kenwood X600F 4-channel amplifier
I also plan on getting a sub enclosure and a Boston 12” Sub (I love Boston Products).

My ideal plan is to use 2 channels of the amp to power the door speakers, bridge the other 2 channels to power the Sub, and use the head unit to power the dash and pillar speakers.

Through reading many threads and posts, it seems that the factory wiring in the FJ has the dash and door speakers running together as well as the pillar and head liner exciter speakers. My question would be how to wire this so that the onboard amp in the head unit sends all the power to the dash and pillar speakers. When I disconnect the door speakers to run wire from the amp, does all the ‘front’ power automatically go to the dash, or do I need to do something else? Will the exciters in the head liner draw a noticeable amount of power from the pillar speakers? Should I disconnect the exciters (I kinda like them)? And do I need to reconfigure the wiring/wiring harness going into the head unit to tell it to give all the power to the dash and pillars?

Thanks
 

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If you disconnect the door speakers and run new wiring to them then that would leave all the front power to the dash speakers. It might be easier to tie into the door speakers from the amp (unless you want heavier gauge wire) and just run new wiring to the dash speakers and splice at the harness behind the radio. This way do do not have to fish wire through to the doors which can be a pain.

You will have a bit of sound overlap with two sets of "full range" speakers up front but it should sound pretty good with a few tweaks. You can adjust the dash and rears spearately from the amp, so you should fine a nice blends in there somewhere.

Disconnect the exciters - you will not hear them at all with what you are installing and they will skew the power and ohms to the rear pillar Bostons.

Leave the stock harness as is and wire it as though you only have stock speakers (assuming you disconnect the doors). This will lead all the power to the dash and rear pillars (and exciters if you keep them). Use the pre-outs to the amp and that will power the doors, and the sub. Sounds like you have it right.

So, do you have the 6960 in now with the stock speakers? If so, did you find it improved the stock sound?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Catman!

This definitely cleared some things up.

The 6960 i would say marginally bettered the stock sound from the dash and doors and as for the pillars I'm not too sure as I know when I first got the FJ I know I faded it to the rear to see how they sounded and kinda forget what I heard, I know nothing spectacular, but after installing the new HU and fading it all the way to the rear they sounded pretty bad. Hopefully after disconnecting the exciters and installing the Bostons in the pillars it will improve, but I'm not expecting too much as I've heard they don't make too much of a difference, especially if you put a sub in the rear which I will do.

So before I start gutting the rest of the audio, I just wanna make sure I have everything right:

-Disconnect the exciters to ensure a proper ohm level and increase amount of power getting to the pillar Bostons i will install
-I don't have too much of a problem running wire to the actual door speakers so I figure I will disconnect the factory harness from the back of the speakers, install the new Bostons and run speaker wire from the amp to those. (and run RCA from the HU to the amp)
-Install the new Dash Bostons (I know I'm going to have to take out the mounting bracket but can I reuse the harness from the stockers?) and with the door speakers powered by the amp, all the power to the front channels provided by the HU will be received by the dash speakers
-I shouldn't have any snags installing the sub and powering it from the other 2 channels of the amp (and running rca's from the HU's SUB out to the amp)
-And power the amp by running the power wire through the firewall to the battery, run the turn on lead by splicing into the one that signals the HU behind the dash, and ground the amp.

With this method, I really shouldn't have to mess with anything else behind the dash (other than the RCAs to the amp and turn on lead), as far as modifying the harness and speaker wiring, should I?

Thanks again for the help!
 

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"can I reuse the harness from the stockers?"
All you'll need is a speaker adapter to plug into the factory plug and you'll be fine.
Other than that, you're right on track. Try to keep your RCA's away from power wires on the way to the rear to keep down possible interference. I'm not sure where you're putting your amp, but you can always tie into the stock remote turn-on lead at the stock subwoofer location (they prewired it for you) instead of behind the head unit if you'd prefer.
I've had a lot of Boston Pro series components over the years and aside from the subwoofers, I've had great luck with them. I think you're going the same direction I'm heading eventually. Let us know how it sounds!
 

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Remember that when you remove a speaker in a series wiring config you are uping the ohms, and the gain in sound output is so small it will be unnoticable. I would leave the headliner tweeter intact for the imaging and for the sake of wasted time vs. desired outcome.
 

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The speakers are in parallel, but you are correct that the ohms will increase slighlty if he removes the exciters and puts in the Bostons which I assume are 4ohm speakers.

However, if he leaves the exciters in and swaps the 8ohm factory speakers for 4 ohm Bostons the ohms will drop to 2 and that could be borderline low for a headunit to handle at louder volumes. At the very least it may sound crappy, not that you could hear them over the fronts anyway. That was my rationale.

I do not find the exciters to offer any imaging at all - I think that is BS marketing hype.
 

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Remember that when you remove a speaker in a series wiring config you are uping the ohms, and the gain in sound output is so small it will be unnoticable. I would leave the headliner tweeter intact for the imaging and for the sake of wasted time vs. desired outcome.
The vibrating headliner "exciter" thingies are wired in parallel, not in series, they are sapping power, and they sound awful. In my 2011 6 speaker, they were the only thing on the rear 2 channels, so I faded all the way to the rear to see what they sounded like by themselves - garbage. Clipped two wires in the driver's A pillar and killed them forever. You definitely want to kill them.

-FJ Florida-
 
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