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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently I have installed the stock trailer hitch on my 2007 FJ by using the PDF that is readily available on this site. I found that even though the PDF is quite usable there were a few things that I needed to figure out from the instructions while I was trying to proceed. So I decided to do a post called “Stock Hitch Install for Beginners” to help others. So…here we go.

The first thing I recommend is that BEFORE you actually try to use the new bolts to attach the pieces is that you thread each bolt in it’s appropriate hole (when at that step) without the new piece. This will really help clean out the threaded holes, and make sure the bolts all start correctly without cross threading. I use some light oil on the bolts to get the new paint off the bolts and to help lubricate and clean the dirt from the holes. ONLY then do I use the bolts to attach the pieces on.

1) Taking off the rear bumper is much easier than the instructions display. If you have the backup sensors then you need to unplug them from both sides.
2) Tip # 1 . The plugs have tabs on the sides that you squeeze to release the lock mechanism for the sensors. A bit tough to get loose but squeeze the tabs on both sides between finger and thumb while pulling apart. It does come apart….just takes a bit of effort.
3) In diagram Fig 3-1 it shows the bolts you need to remove. The bottom “A group” is underneath and you need to lay on your back to remove these. The top “A group” is on the sill of the back door when it is open. The “B” push pin is located inside the door frame approximately where the door latch is. This pin just pops out with a bit of encouragement. (you may want to put the masking tape on you door as per the instructions because the next step you are removing the plastic bumper part.
4) To remove the bumper start on the drivers side with the door open. (makes sure all 13 bolts/screws are out and the push pin) Reach your hand under the bumper fascia at the back wheel well and start to pull away from the body as you move your hand up. With a bit of pull and sliding your hand behind the fascia as you move your hand up, the plastic bumper will “pop” from a single “pop pin” near the top.
5) Have somebody hold the bumper off the ground and do the same on the passenger side. Bumper cover is now removed.

The install of the hitch is straight forward as per the PDF but try to get the underside/bottom bolts going after the first two topside bolts for an easier install. DO not cross thread…just take your time…it will go on easy enough…just need to do the bolts in the correct order.

If you do not have a torque wrench I can offer my opinion on tightness. (I do have the torque wrench but I’ll try to describe the pull). Basically with a ¾ socket on a 16 inch bar I would pull with one arm as tight as I can comfortably and stop before I had the sense that I “might” snap the head off. Sorry…but it is the best I can describe…go for a good tightness but not with your legs braced against a wheel and for all your worth.

The damn bolts are going to rust on in a month or two anyways….:).

Removing the cover fascia is sampling pushing out some “pop pins” (keep those) and sticking on the other fascia that has the indent for the hitch with the same pop pins. Just use something that has a blunt end to push the pins…the pins come out quite easy.

To reinstall the bumper fascia just work backwards. The one bolt you leave out (and make sure it is the bolt …not the screw type bolt with a point on it) is for mounting the wiring plug on the metal angle bracket to the frame.

Big Tip # 2

Even though I am jumping ahead here…this was the biggest PITA I had on the whole job. The little cover that plugs the stock harness at the rear of the FJ can be a tough one to figure. There are tabs that LOOK like you squeeze or prod apart to get the cap off but that is wrong. Just slide a small flat screwdriver between the cap edge (inside) and the receptacle and there is a very small tab that releases the cap. I just about screwed up that connector trying to figure it out. When I slid my small screwdriver into the receptacle (inside edge of receptacle…try all four sides) suddenly it popped off with ease. Think of it as sliding the screw driver between a bottle cap and the neck of the bottle.

The rest of the electrical is dead easy…just take your time.

The fuse box diagram is really clear (under hood…front…driver’s side) if you pop the top open. Just look carefully at fig 4-1 in the harness PDF and it shows the relay spot. DO NOT drop the relay and do not touch the contacts with you fingers...go slow and before you begin look at the pins and the receptacle area in the box and it is very easy. Next are two fuses. Just count over and plug them in. Both fuses are the same so it does not matter which goes where.

Tip # 3

Leave the fuse panel open and test the electrical at the back of the FJ when you are all done. Check for a burning smell (electrical) before closing the box. NOT going to happen in a million years but better to be safe than sorry.

The last help thing is the converter box….inside the cab …sort of above the brake. (Mine is an AT so that is what I can share). This box is very easy to hook up. Just look straight up under the dash….as if you were looking up to the windshield. There is a bolt hole just to the left of the brake pedal straight up. In my case, a bit of the firewall insulation covered the hole which I pushed aside (1 ½ inches) . This hole is approximately 6 inches from the side panel and just in front/left of the brake. After getting the correct hole and bolting on the converter the plug is right on the side panel wrapped up in a bit of tape. It is obvious and you can obviously see that the plug and receptacle is a match. It can only go together one way. Use ties to tie up loose wire.

Last step is to mount the bracket on the back bumper…plug the connectors together and tie wrap the wires safely up.

Your Done !!! :clap: Test it and a way you go.

Do not forget to close the relay cover under the hood when you are done.

Sorry if this seemed wordy.


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