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Do you happen to have the part # handy for the ARP Studs you used?
Thanks in advance.

Errrrmaaahhhhgerrrrrrd, what a ****ing journey this was. I finished in time for my two week vacation of oversand driving and boat pulling, but it was close. Time to post my final impressions. Sorry for being a little off topic in this thread and this post, but I like to try and put everything I can out there for people searching and I don't want to make another post for the breather and studs.

StopTech Big Brake Kit from SOS Performance

SOS - Great company to deal with. Very helpful when I had questions, worked with me to get the parts to me as fast as possible. I wouldn't hesitate for even a second to deal with them again.

SOS StopTech Brake Kit - Fantastic kit. The brackets that SOS makes are very, very nice. The instructions are good and, honestly, dealing with the installation of the brake kit was BY FAR the easiest part of my two month nightmare. Most of my working on cars has been bolting and unbolting, but the metal-slicing required by this kit was not difficult. The caliper shields are trivial to cut with an angle grinder. Cutting the rear caliper bracket was more difficult but, honestly, with the way everything is situated it's way easier to cut too little than too much. SOS gives you a template for doing this, which I forgot about and didn't use. When I did the second one I cut a lot more out of the bracket initially but still had some grinding to do to get it all the way there. I've used an angle grinder before but probably not for anything of this magnitude, so I wouldn't be deterred by this if you're not a metalworking expert.

The kit only gives you 4 lines and does not include the frame-to-rear-axle lines. The rear lines were also cut very short and I wound up using one man-a-fre line on one side. The lines seemed to be very well made, though.

StopTech Brakes - The brakes are very good. To be honest - for off roading or driving alone I think the cost may not be worth it. If you are pulling a trailer, especially with 33" tires and above, now you're getting into the zone where this kit starts to make a lot of sense. This was the furthest I have driven with my boat and stopping is a lot less sketchy than it used to be. With the stock brakes, it just never felt like there was enough power and fade resistance to be confident. Now there definitely is.

The pedal is not as firm as I was expecting, but I believe this is my fault. See recommendations. It has also gotten a lot better as the brakes have gotten some miles on them.

The design of the calipers is beautiful. It was so gratifying not to put the crappy, easily binding rear calipers back in the car...or even the front calipers with their absolutely ridiculous guaranteed-to-rust-in-place pad pins. It's just a way WAY better design.

Recommendations:

1.) Do not, under any circumstances, allow the master cylinder to empty out completely. Obvious to some, but I had just never had a brake job where I needed to have the lines disconnected for more than a couple minutes. I bled the brakes, I did the procedure in the manual (letting the pump run out, pumping the pedal 20+ times, etc.), but I still couldn't get them to firm up. I brought it to the dealer to bleed by unlocking the ABS using the, "intelligent tester" tool, but I'm still not 100% sure all of the air is out of the system. At some point I will probably bleed them again.

2.) I went out and did hard stops to bed the brakes, but I think they are still improving as they break in. It may be that the brakes are so big for the truck that you need to do a more intense bedding process. As we drove around during vacation, the pedal definitely firmed up even more.

3.) I contacted SOS about the bleed procedure for the dual bleed screw calipers and the response was, "I typically do the passenger side outside bleeder first and work my way back to the left side and then repeat two more times"

4.) Since no one has a flare nut torque wrench, I recommend tightening the lines, "a little tighter than you think". I tend to overtighten so I went easy on them, but had a ****load of leaks. Once I went around and gave them another unk! of tightness they were good to go.

5.) It's obvious (please tell me it's obvious to you) that you need good safety glasses when grinding, but I strongly recommend hearing protection and a mask/respirator as well. You're going to be at this for a while and the grinder is loud and metal dust tastes like ****.

ARP Wheel Studs

These are great and I am definitely happy I did them now that I realized how few threads were actually engaged on the stock studs. If I had it to do again, I would strongly consider buying ultra-deep spline nuts and just leaving them the length that they came. Cutting them down and chamfering them was a pain in the ass, not really in my wheelhouse, and you would never notice the super deep lugs in the wheels I have.

Parking Brake

Wow, just wow. The dealer called me to tell me the parking brake cable was seized. I wound up going by there because, while I trust this dealer, it just didn't seem seized to me when I took it apart. The cable moved but, as it turns out, it would not extend all the way. Now that it's been replaced, I can definitely feel the difference in the parking brake lever.

I'm trying to use the parking brake a lot more to keep it from seizing again, and I could not be more disappointed in how awful it is. I've driven off with it still engaged several times and barely even noticed. I don't know that I can say I wouldn't have it repaired again, because it just felt sketchy having nothing, but it certainly wasn't even remotely worth the titanic amount of cash that I paid to have it fixed by the dealer. My advice is to leave it alone unless you REALLY REALLY want to do the rear wheel studs. If you do take it apart, I would honestly find the cheapest shop I could to put it back together and then just retorque the bolts on the calipers to make sure that part was done right.

The dealer also discovered my axle seals were leaking, which could have been due to the stock diff breathers and some water I hit last year offroading. I ordered and installed the ARB breather kit in the jack/tools space. I only did the rears, but should probably do the fronts at some point.

Additional stuff I needed or ordered and didn't need:

Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud installer - doesn't fit between stud and hub, not worth it. Just use a bunch of washers but make sure 1.) either the washers fit between the stud and hub, or you cut a notch in them so they fit and don't get jammed in there and 2.) Make sure you use enough washers so you don't ruin your wheel lug, you can easily screw right through the top of the lug.

Legris Composite 3122 Metric 04 53 - This place HopeDirect got me these parts insanely quickly. This is the piece that adapts the 8mm ARB breather kit tube to the 4mm e-locker tube. https://www.hopedirect.com/product/3122-04-53/legris-composite-3122-metric?gclid=CjwKCAjw8O7bBRB0EiwAfbrTh_cb9G4iPOzmPSMBT3c1EEOlSenQa9hhY78sKVqGwTbC2M_8xDXU_RoCMKwQAvD_BwE

Legris Composite 3106 Metric 04 08 - It's not obvious from the picture on the site or the thread I found this in, but this is not just a coupler - it is a reducer from the 8mm ARB tube to the 4mm tube that the elocker uses. You can plug the 3122 above right into this. https://www.hopedirect.com/products?Filter=4135.legris-composite-3106-metric/department.hose-and-fittings/product-type.push-to-connect-fittings/

New clips for the rear fender liner - I destroyed these tying to run the ARB tubing a different way. These work perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CVOLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can see where I pounded the end of the pad retention pin with a punch so that it's now flared instead of tapered. Horrible design for anywhere there is road salt.



Look at the wear on my old passenger rear brake pad. Awful.



I used anti-seize to mark how much of the threads were engaged on the stock studs. Are you comfortable with this? I'm certainly not.



This image speaks for itself.







Sorry for the ****ty phone picture. FJ pulling my boat out of the Pamet River after a long trip with much more confident braking.

 

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This has been a very informational thread!!

I am hoping someone can tell me what type/brand of Front Brake Upgrade Kit is on the Front of my "2008" FJ 4x4.
(My rig came from the Factory with the Convenience Upgrade Package and the #2 Upgrade Package)

I have attached a few pics that I took of the FRONT Calipers Housings to see if someone recognizes them?

Also... did these FJ 4x4's come with the Same sized brakes on All 4 Wheels from Factory?

What I know...
I received a Print-Out of the different times and places my rig was Serviced at a Toyota Dealership, prior to my ownership. The gentleman that I had spoke with was also reading through the Service History on my FJ and from what I remember he said this FJ had a Bigger Brake Upgrade installed on it At the Dealership, he gave No Brand Name and it does not show up in the vehicle Service print-outs that I have for it.
Comparing the Size of my Front brakes to the Rear brakes, the Front brakes are Much Larger that the Rear brakes.

From the Pictures I have Attached... can anyone tell me what Brand or Type or Size of Front Brake Upgrade that is on my FJ?

(I took these pictures with the wheel On the Vehicle and could not get very good angles for the pictures)

Thank You Everyone! :smile
 

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This has been a very informational thread!!

I am hoping someone can tell me what type/brand of Front Brake Upgrade Kit is on the Front of my "2008" FJ 4x4.
(My rig came from the Factory with the Convenience Upgrade Package and the #2 Upgrade Package)

I have attached a few pics that I took of the FRONT Calipers Housings to see if someone recognizes them?

Also... did these FJ 4x4's come with the Same sized brakes on All 4 Wheels from Factory?

What I know...
I received a Print-Out of the different times and places my rig was Serviced at a Toyota Dealership, prior to my ownership. The gentleman that I had spoke with was also reading through the Service History on my FJ and from what I remember he said this FJ had a Bigger Brake Upgrade installed on it At the Dealership, he gave No Brand Name and it does not show up in the vehicle Service print-outs that I have for it.
Comparing the Size of my Front brakes to the Rear brakes, the Front brakes are Much Larger that the Rear brakes.

From the Pictures I have Attached... can anyone tell me what Brand or Type or Size of Front Brake Upgrade that is on my FJ?

(I took these pictures with the wheel On the Vehicle and could not get very good angles for the pictures)

Thank You Everyone! :smile
I have never heard of upgraded brakes for the FJ Cruiser from the factory besides maybe the TRD big brake kit. So I am skeptical they are anything different from the regular factory brakes. The best way to tell is to look at the back of the caliper casting. Should have a 13WG embossed on the back.

The brake size difference is normal between the front and rear. The front are 4 pistons and rear are single piston with drum (parking) brakes built into the rotor. The fronts are always bigger because they provide 80% of the stopping power due to weight transfer.

Capture.JPG
 

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Well.... The 4 runner brake calipers appear to be no less susceptible to freezing up than the FJ originals. Perhaps more susceptible since I just installed these less than a year ago, I believe. So so so so very sad.:|


The caliper didn't look bad but I started noticing the tell tale brake smell a while back then massive steering wheel jerk today. I actually thought the lugs had loosened or a bearing was out...

No pics of the offending caliper since my amazing wife took it from me, jumped into her trusty Corolla and made the trip to town for me...
 

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centric from rock auto. Not sure about warranty but it's my daily and I have to work tomorrow so had to get a rebuilt Orielly to replace it. It wasn't rusty at all.... Bummer
 

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Yeah, I used the wrong paint so it came right off but like I said the caliper wasn't rusty. We haven't had much snow this winter so the roads have only been salted a few days and I think I replaced them last spring. Got a bad one I guess.
 

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Dang, hate to hear that. I am 3/4 done with my big brake upgrade. Just need to install driver side caliper and SS brake line and bleed everything. Hope to get it done in the morning before I go to work.




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Hey everyone, quick update from my big brake upgrade; Powerstop caliper version. It's been a little over 8,000mi for me and the calipers are performing great. It sucks to hear the Centric calipers are seizing up for you @cliffy.

BUT, I do have a "Centric" problem of my own = front rotors. After 8K miles my front rotors started giving me the shakes, especially after getting warmed up coming down mountain passes. The 90 day warranty is a joke, so I decided to pop for OEM 4Runner rotors from the dealership. I should have went this route in the first place as the price difference was negligible, but I didn't given the good feedback of others running the Centrics.

I will also comment that the clear plastic wrap around my front driver SS brake line has cracked/split in numerous spots at the caliper hose end. I am assuming this is purely aesthetic as the braided line is completely intact and not bulging. I ordered another set of front SS lines though and will keep an eye on them... again, the limited 90 day warranty from Rock Auto is out.

Other than the warped Centric front rotors and the cracked plastic on the SS front brake lines the entire setup has been a big improvement over the OEM FJ brakes and I have not once smelled them working hard in the mountains. If your OEM FJ calipers/pads are needing replacement I'd not hesitate to go this route.
 

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Hey everyone, quick update from my big brake upgrade; Powerstop caliper version. It's been a little over 8,000mi for me and the calipers are performing great. It sucks to hear the Centric calipers are seizing up for you @cliffy.

.


I don't think I'll buy calipers online anymore. Not much of a warranty behind them and not convenient in a pinch with shipping/core return. I got a nice rebuilt 4rnr caliper from advance auto with what appears to be a very durable silver coating and a lifetime warranty. The 4nr front brake setup on our FJ's does work great though.
 

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@darkhorse13 did you bed your pads to your rotors? Or did you do a easy break-in (brake lightly for 200 miles or so)?

The TRD pads on the other hand are squeaking under hard braking.
Stop running race car parts! (TRacingD) :wink:

appears to be a very durable silver coating and a lifetime warranty.
I'd get caliper paint and coat them anyway if they're made of iron. I replaced my dad's Lexus with power stop calipers and they were pretty silver but didn't last. If they're aluminum, then carry on
 

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@darkhorse13 did you bed your pads to your rotors? Or did you do a easy break-in (brake lightly for 200 miles or so)?
1) On the original new Centric rotors and new TRD pads I followed the break-in procedure supplied in the TRD pads box. I don't exact recall but it was something like a handful of 25-5mph soft stops then 40-10mph medium stops? I am not hard on my brakes nor am I an aggressive stop and go type of person on the highway. Also, the Centric rotors went about 7K miles before I noticed the pulsing so they started out just fine.

2) Now on the new OEM rotors and existing TRD pads, I only have about 20 miles on this combo. I still followed the pad break in procedure though on the new rotors. I plan to get on the highway with them soon and make some higher speed slow downs. I'll do my best to baby these new OEM rotors for about a tank of gas.

I'll have plenty of wheeling trips this summer with a fully loaded rig so I'll be sure to report back if the OEM rotors exhibit any shakes... if they do I probably have other issues creeping up.
 

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I'd get caliper paint and coat them anyway if they're made of iron. I replaced my dad's Lexus with power stop calipers and they were pretty silver but didn't last. If they're aluminum, then carry on
Hmm, Maybe I should've painted then because I'm pretty sure $129 duralast calipers aren't aluminum....:|
 

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I plan to get on the highway with them soon and make some higher speed slow downs. I'll do my best to baby these new OEM rotors for about a tank of gas.
Stoptech removed their original site but their pad procedure and theory were on point. You should run it to almost fade (among smelling the resins in the pad fusing from heat). That's how hot the brakes have to get to transfer the pad material reliably. I have a feeling over time the street driving polished the rotors and unevenly deposited pad material since you said you're easy on the brakes. Just something to consider, drive harder!
 

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Stoptech removed their original site but their pad procedure and theory were on point. You should run it to almost fade (among smelling the resins in the pad fusing from heat). That's how hot the brakes have to get to transfer the pad material reliably. I have a feeling over time the street driving polished the rotors and unevenly deposited pad material since you said you're easy on the brakes. Just something to consider, drive harder!
That's what I did. I hammered them for the first couple stops from 50-10 mph about 5 times as fast as I could. Nobody else was on the road. Heck, I even dragged them while giving it some gas. :bandit:
 

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That's what I did. I hammered them for the first couple stops from 50-10 mph about 5 times as fast as I could. Nobody else was on the road. Heck, I even dragged them while giving it some gas. :bandit:
Your method seems unconventional but effective :ninja: The Stoptech article was rather definite in saying once you've gone thru the procedure, go another 110%. Perform the bed in procedure 2-3x total to get to the brakes to operating temp and almost fade to failure. All depends on the pad of course but building up heat to make you brake better seems like the upside down.

I wish I could find the procedure but their site changed servers.
 

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What do the manufacturers do? I can't see them running brand new vehicles up to 40 mph with hard to moderate stops 6-10 times. Still some guys are getting over 100k miles out of originals... using machines???
 

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I replaced my front ones with centric parts. The calipers are covered in surface rust in 3 weeks of summer weather. I don't take my FJ on salty winter roads here otherwise they're gonna be way worse. Pictures compare the centric front vs the OE rear. I wonder what coating is on centric calipers…it's as good as bare metal lol
 

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