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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all.
Need some feed back on what you folks recommend for a rear suspension set up for my build.
IMPORTANT- I CANNOT go any higher than the stock height. Because or garage fitment.

My current rig set up is
Total Chaos A arm skids
Rasta4x4 Full Skids set
All Pro Rear Shock Skids
Rear Lower links skid
Ultimate Links
E locker Guard
Currently I am running.
TRDs shocks with stock springs
I am about to level the rig out with Toytecs 883 and the Driver side 1/2 compensate spacer with the stock TRDs. (I hope this won't give the rig any overall height increase.) I running the stock TRD wheel set up with BFG A/T 265/75/16s.


Down the road I have plans to install the Lucrum front winch mount (NO WINCH planned) (still a toss up Lucrum or All Pro Front bumper) AND a Warn rear full metal bumper.

With the planned set up.
The rear Warn bumper Weight - is Approx. 70 Lbs. And the Lucrum front Weight - 50lbs. Minus weight of the stuff being remover. The rear is going to be heavier.

Is the 883/TRD going be all right with all the current and planned set up weight? (Dam that is a lot of weight I have added to think about it)
What will I need to compensate for all the rearward weight of the Warn bumper? Without going any higher than stock height? Are there heavy/stiffer springs OR Spacers to compensate for the added weight?

If it wasn't for the garage height restiction I would luv to do a 3" complete lift all around, my condo management is all ready PISSED at me for making the midnite adjustment to the garaged doors. And scraping the bottom of the door when I go in and out, well I don't scrape the IN door but I do scrape the OUT door every now and then with the rack.

Thanx All
 

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Get one of the sweet adjustable suspensions (I went with ICON) that can adjust from 0 to 3.5 inches of lift. Keep it at zero when at home, and go up for the trail.
 

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Just a clearance suggestion: Do whatever lift you like, and ditch the factory rack. If you really need a rack, either go with a Gobi Stealth or give the factory rack the 'mini' mod (here's a link to a IH8MUD forum post that describes it, but there might be a thread in this forum that addresses it too):

Mini-Me roof rack mod

EDIT: Doh, just looked at your sig line, and it looks like you've got a light bar installed...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Would love to get one of those adjustable suspensions.

Yeah Joeuser I have considered going rackless and mini me. But I use my rack pretty often.One of the many things I use it for is I stripped down after a day of hunting and throw all my clothing and climbing treestand up there to reduce the chance of bringing home deer ticks. Up here they are out of control.
How high did your ToyTech Medium rear coils lift your rig?

My lights on the rack barely misses the door edge, that is the reason I am running smaller Hella FF50 lamps. The hump in the middle of rack is what scrapes the door edge & and gasket.
 

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The toytec adjustable coilovers are pretty cheap and I fraekin love em. If I had the money I would of bought Icons or Kings with the resoirvior but them are about double the price.
 

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If I recall my unloaded measurements correctly, I think the rear was lifted something like 1-1/2" to 2" with the Toytecs; not a whole bunch. But, enough that the rear levels with the front, after the front coils and shocks were installed.

If you're planning on eventually putting another front bumper on, then you might want to reconsider the 883's, and maybe go with the 884's. Without the 1/2" aluminum spacers, the 884's only lift the front 2-1/2". If you want the full 3", you use the spacers. If you go with 285/70/17's you're gonna get around another 1/2" to 3/4" of lift just from the tire size difference, so keep that in mind.

So, you can compensate for the difference in the lift by going with a lower profile rack, like a Gobi Stealth (which I'm eventually going to get). I can almost pull my lifted FJ in my garage (even with the Hankook 285's), if I only had a slightly lower rack...
 

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I'm with JoeUser on ditching the stock rack, it's weak and bulky. I also reccomend the gobi stealt or a simaler but much cheaper model by WAAG. I have the stealth 33's and almost 3 inches of lift and still fit in my garage, now low clearance parking garages are a different story. No fittie. An adjustable air bag or hydraulic susp. might be an option. lol
 

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The toytec adjustable coilovers are pretty cheap and I fraekin love em. If I had the money I would of bought Icons or Kings with the resoirvior but them are about double the price.
If I would've held out for another four months, yeah, I'd be lovin' my Toytec adjustables, too!

I just wish they would've been available earlier, 'cause man I love the design of those coilovers - I'm sure the ride is much more superior than my 884's, due to the longer-flexing coil spring...
 

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The Toytec coil overs are they the GB one?
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...oytec-adjustable-coilovers-group-buy-new.html

There seems to be some concern with the sway bar when running at 0 or stock height.
I've got these on my rig and they are adjusted to just level the truck (I've also got "issues" with my garage!) and I don't have any rubbing on the sway bar. They are a great product and I do like the ride better both on-road and off-road. These are a buy! IMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So with the coilovers. When adjustment is made, they are only for the front. Now my point of contact is the middle of the vehicle and middle of the rack. How is this going to affect the point of contact with adjustment of the coils? The middle of the vehicle should be at the pretty much the same height correct?
As of right now stock spring with TRD shock it is hitting the middle of the rack. The wheel rear clearance is higher than the front. So If I went with 883 with driver side compensater spacer (to fix the lean). This will give the front the same wheel clearance height as the rear. But at the same time lifting the front height of the vehicle 2.5 inches. The middle should be about the same height.
So even going with front adjustable coil over the problem should still be there am I correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What are you folks running for the rears with the adjustable coil overs?
 

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What are you folks running for the rears with the adjustable coil overs?
OME895 Mediums. as for the clearance issue, any lift of the fromt will bring the rig up higher. your point of contact will still be about mid roof though.
 

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What are you folks running for the rears with the adjustable coil overs?
2" Toytec Coils w/Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks
 

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I just realized you said REAR, sorry, delete all my responses from your mind. lol The OME895 will lift the rear about an inch so I'd stay clear of them. If you just want a better ride with no lift, change out your rear shocks to some nicer ones and leave the springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Would luv too try them out, but If I like them I just can't afford them.
Thanx
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Contacted Toytech for some advice.
I am going with 883 and TP14 for now.
When I get the Warn rear bumper they recomended
going Air Bags

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/suspension-tech/47488-have-any-you-used-air-lift-products.html

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/suspension-tech/53034-ome-suspension-air-lift-bags.html

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...ng-suspension-mod-air-springs.html#post452902

What do you think?
I am not trailering anything just need to compensate for the Warn rear bumper weight.
 
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