Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, Ordered my 3" lift. It comes with the extended front sway bar links, but I got rear springs and extended shocks but no extended rear sway bar links. Is it not necessary to extend the rear sway bar? I am still on the fence about pulling and tossing the front, but from what I am reading, it is best to keep at least the rear. Either way, still on the fence about removal. So I would rather have the links if needed when I do the install than need to go back in there later. So what say you guys, need to extend the rear links or just run the stock setup with the 3" springs and shocks?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,205 Posts
I'd say you are over thinking it. A large number of members run a 3" kit with out having extended sway bar links with no problem,

I went the route are on the fence about - no sway bars front or back. The only thing I could really notice was the FJ leaned in the turn a bit quicker BUT no further. I have had a few emergency avoidance events without sway bars - the FJ pulled through like a champ, at no point did I feel like it was unsafe or go catapulting in catastrophic NASCAR worthy flaming barrel roll down the freeway (I45)
 

·
4-Corners Moderator
Joined
·
4,934 Posts
Are you sure the extended sway bar links aren't actually for the rear? Which kit did you get? What I've seen is that most lift kits replace the rear sway bar links before they would replace only the front ones.

Right now I am running without my rear sway bar and it isn't really much of a difference. Hardly noticeable. But running without the front on and only the rear, you will definitely notice a difference in how it feels when turning. I've never run without any sway bars at all but I can't imagine it being too much of a jump from running with only the rear. For folks who offroad a lot and want that extra flex, then sure, remove the sway bars. But if you drive your FJ as a daily-driver, having at least one sway bar will make it nicer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Capt,

I once owned a 80 series Landcruiser and installed a 4 inch suspension lift on it. Not having the correct parts at the time, I left the swaybars off. Big mistake! The vehicle cornered horribly. I had to custom fabricate parts to reconnect the swaybars but even then, the stock swaybars were not heavy enough to completely control body roll. A lesson learned for me. Having also built several street racers in my youth I know the value of properly tuned swaybars on coil sprung vehicles.

On my FJ, I replaced the stock swaybars with heavy duty bars from "Cusco". The Cusco bars are 50% larger in diameter than the stock Toyota bars. I used Toytec's front swaybar relocation bracket, moving the bar forward to clear my larger diameter shocks. To keep the swaybars at the proper geometry I installed adjustable swaybar links. Because the front and rear swaybars mount differently, my front links are shorter and the rears are longer than stock links keeping the bars at optimum angles. My FJ has a 3 inch lift and cuts corners with absolutely zero body roll. Was all this necessary? Most likely not but I'm happy with the outcome and how my Cruiser handles on pavement.

Depending on the stiffness of your springs and shocks you may not require the use of swaybars but my recommendation is to retain them. You might consider performing a test. After completing your lift, carefully drive the vehicle Without the swaybars to determine if they are needed.

My story probably doesn't offer any useful help for you but I thought I'd share my experience. Attached is a photo of my setup with the Cusco bars and adjustable links.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,019 Posts
Capt,

I once owned a 80 series Landcruiser and installed a 4 inch suspension lift on it. Not having the correct parts at the time, I left the swaybars off. Big mistake! The vehicle cornered horribly. I had to custom fabricate parts to reconnect the swaybars but even then, the stock swaybars were not heavy enough to completely control body roll. A lesson learned for me. Having also built several street racers in my youth I know the value of properly tuned swaybars on coil sprung vehicles.

On my FJ, I replaced the stock swaybars with heavy duty bars from "Cusco". The Cusco bars are 50% larger in diameter than the stock Toyota bars. I used Toytec's front swaybar relocation bracket, moving the bar forward to clear my larger diameter shocks. To keep the swaybars at the proper geometry I installed adjustable swaybar links. Because the front and rear swaybars mount differently, my front links are shorter and the rears are longer than stock links keeping the bars at optimum angles. My FJ has a 3 inch lift and cuts corners with absolutely zero body roll. Was all this necessary? Most likely not but I'm happy with the outcome and how my Cruiser handles on pavement.

Depending on the stiffness of your springs and shocks you may not require the use of swaybars but my recommendation is to retain them. You might consider performing a test. After completing your lift, carefully drive the vehicle Without the swaybars to determine if they are needed.

My story probably doesn't offer any useful help for you but I thought I'd share my experience. Attached is a photo of my setup with the Cusco bars and adjustable links.
Now if the UCA was blue..... it would be perfect !!!!!
Nice set up...

cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Are you sure the extended sway bar links aren't actually for the rear? Which kit did you get? What I've seen is that most lift kits replace the rear sway bar links before they would replace only the front ones.

Right now I am running without my rear sway bar and it isn't really much of a difference. Hardly noticeable. But running without the front on and only the rear, you will definitely notice a difference in how it feels when turning. I've never run without any sway bars at all but I can't imagine it being too much of a jump from running with only the rear. For folks who offroad a lot and want that extra flex, then sure, remove the sway bars. But if you drive your FJ as a daily-driver, having at least one sway bar will make it nicer.
I orderded the Freedom Offroad 2.5-5" adjustable. Looking at the links in the kit is what is leading me to believe it is the front which is being replaced. Angle tips on each end rather than one angle, and one strait end. But I could be wrong. Was doing a bit of assumption there. In the description, it just says extended swaybar links. So I could be completely wrong. But I figured it would be because that kit can go up to 5" of adjustment up front where the rear is 3" only. So figured the 3" was not enough to cause an issue, but going past 3 up front could. But I could be wrong. Trying to apply old logic from other rigs made differently, so I am worried about my margin of error in my thinking. But thanks for taking the time to respond.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Capt,

I once owned a 80 series Landcruiser and installed a 4 inch suspension lift on it. Not having the correct parts at the time, I left the swaybars off. Big mistake! The vehicle cornered horribly. I had to custom fabricate parts to reconnect the swaybars but even then, the stock swaybars were not heavy enough to completely control body roll. A lesson learned for me. Having also built several street racers in my youth I know the value of properly tuned swaybars on coil sprung vehicles.

On my FJ, I replaced the stock swaybars with heavy duty bars from "Cusco". The Cusco bars are 50% larger in diameter than the stock Toyota bars. I used Toytec's front swaybar relocation bracket, moving the bar forward to clear my larger diameter shocks. To keep the swaybars at the proper geometry I installed adjustable swaybar links. Because the front and rear swaybars mount differently, my front links are shorter and the rears are longer than stock links keeping the bars at optimum angles. My FJ has a 3 inch lift and cuts corners with absolutely zero body roll. Was all this necessary? Most likely not but I'm happy with the outcome and how my Cruiser handles on pavement.

Depending on the stiffness of your springs and shocks you may not require the use of swaybars but my recommendation is to retain them. You might consider performing a test. After completing your lift, carefully drive the vehicle Without the swaybars to determine if they are needed.

My story probably doesn't offer any useful help for you but I thought I'd share my experience. Attached is a photo of my setup with the Cusco bars and adjustable links.
I actually appreciate the input. Was considering keeping both, but fabbing up some quick disconnects for when I am wheeling. My last rig I deleted them, but that was leaf springs on all 4 corners, so a completely different world, I may keep them but tie them up out of the way and take a drive. Seems to be the most prudent thing. Eventually, I will upgrade the swaybars, and for sure either build adjustable or purchase them. I don't know a bunch about tuning a suspension, as my experience didn't use coilovers, but "I got a guy" so I am sure we can figure it out, of course, reachig in here for guidance along the way.

Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Now if the UCA was blue..... it would be perfect !!!!!

Nice set up...



cheers

Baz

:blueblob:


Those JBA’s look to be the best design and most cost effective UCA option I’ve seen. Doesn’t get much more simple than that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
4-Corners Moderator
Joined
·
4,934 Posts
I orderded the Freedom Offroad 2.5-5" adjustable. Looking at the links in the kit is what is leading me to believe it is the front which is being replaced. Angle tips on each end rather than one angle, and one strait end. But I could be wrong. Was doing a bit of assumption there. In the description, it just says extended swaybar links. So I could be completely wrong. But I figured it would be because that kit can go up to 5" of adjustment up front where the rear is 3" only. So figured the 3" was not enough to cause an issue, but going past 3 up front could. But I could be wrong. Trying to apply old logic from other rigs made differently, so I am worried about my margin of error in my thinking. But thanks for taking the time to respond.
I looked up the kit, it is this one right? https://www.freedomoffroadusa.com/147371/1/4/1096/fo-t901-2-kit.html

You are correct, those certainly are front sway bar links, which is interesting. But in the end whether or not you run a sway bar is up to you. Like I said, the big deciding factor for me is how much on-road vs off-road driving you do.

Thanks for bringing this kit to my attention, have never heard about it before, I will have to add it to the lift comparison thread!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
MicrowaveOven,

Yep, the JBA UCA's are great! Solid design and easy to service. There are 3 different versions for the FJ. (1) Normal caster for non-lifted vehicles, (2) High caster for lifted vehicles, and (3) High caster heavy duty. The heavy duty version is a beast and not necessary unless you plan to take your Cruiser air-borne. Check out JBA's website which contain several videos showing the design advantage over other brands.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I looked up the kit, it is this one right? https://www.freedomoffroadusa.com/147371/1/4/1096/fo-t901-2-kit.html

You are correct, those certainly are front sway bar links, which is interesting. But in the end whether or not you run a sway bar is up to you. Like I said, the big deciding factor for me is how much on-road vs off-road driving you do.

Thanks for bringing this kit to my attention, have never heard about it before, I will have to add it to the lift comparison thread!
Yea, that's the one. I have pretty much decided on keeping the bars, at least, hooking them up for on road driving as it will be there more than not. When I leave the pavement, I will disconnect and tie up out of the way. May give them a shot a bit on the road to see just how the manners are, but at any rate, not going to snatch them out and put them in the scrap pile. Thanks for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
MicrowaveOven,

Yep, the JBA UCA's are great! Solid design and easy to service. There are 3 different versions for the FJ. (1) Normal caster for non-lifted vehicles, (2) High caster for lifted vehicles, and (3) High caster heavy duty. The heavy duty version is a beast and not necessary unless you plan to take your Cruiser air-borne. Check out JBA's website which contain several videos showing the design advantage over other brands.


Exactly, I need a set and I’ll be ordering the standard lifted version, hard to beat for $450 and I like the red, just hope the powdercoat job is done well as I doubt that is stainless rod


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
4-Corners Moderator
Joined
·
4,934 Posts
Yea, that's the one. I have pretty much decided on keeping the bars, at least, hooking them up for on road driving as it will be there more than not. When I leave the pavement, I will disconnect and tie up out of the way. May give them a shot a bit on the road to see just how the manners are, but at any rate, not going to snatch them out and put them in the scrap pile. Thanks for the help.
Just keep in mind, if you do disconnect just one sway bar link and don't remove the whole sway bar, you will destroy the factory CV axle, or the boot at least. Unfortunately the FJs aren't designed like Jeeps in that regard. Some people design or sell their own sway bar quick-disconnect links that have a simple pin that can be removed and then the link is still connected but can slide on a smooth bolt providing more wheel travel. But I've had links accidentally become disconnected on the trail and then that sway bar is free to fly around and do a lot of damage. That is why for most people it is an all or nothing thing with sway bars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Just keep in mind, if you do disconnect just one sway bar link and don't remove the whole sway bar, you will destroy the factory CV axle, or the boot at least. Unfortunately the FJs aren't designed like Jeeps in that regard. Some people design or sell their own sway bar quick-disconnect links that have a simple pin that can be removed and then the link is still connected but can slide on a smooth bolt providing more wheel travel. But I've had links accidentally become disconnected on the trail and then that sway bar is free to fly around and do a lot of damage. That is why for most people it is an all or nothing thing with sway bars.
Thanks for that heads up. Yea I was looking at the rear today. Saw how it is installed and didn't see a good way to just disconnect it and keep it from causing issues. Didnt get up to the front to see how it was put in. Don't want it to get into the CV for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Capt,

I once owned a 80 series Landcruiser and installed a 4 inch suspension lift on it. Not having the correct parts at the time, I left the swaybars off. Big mistake! The vehicle cornered horribly. I had to custom fabricate parts to reconnect the swaybars but even then, the stock swaybars were not heavy enough to completely control body roll. A lesson learned for me. Having also built several street racers in my youth I know the value of properly tuned swaybars on coil sprung vehicles.

On my FJ, I replaced the stock swaybars with heavy duty bars from "Cusco". The Cusco bars are 50% larger in diameter than the stock Toyota bars. I used Toytec's front swaybar relocation bracket, moving the bar forward to clear my larger diameter shocks. To keep the swaybars at the proper geometry I installed adjustable swaybar links. Because the front and rear swaybars mount differently, my front links are shorter and the rears are longer than stock links keeping the bars at optimum angles. My FJ has a 3 inch lift and cuts corners with absolutely zero body roll. Was all this necessary? Most likely not but I'm happy with the outcome and how my Cruiser handles on pavement.

Depending on the stiffness of your springs and shocks you may not require the use of swaybars but my recommendation is to retain them. You might consider performing a test. After completing your lift, carefully drive the vehicle Without the swaybars to determine if they are needed.

My story probably doesn't offer any useful help for you but I thought I'd share my experience. Attached is a photo of my setup with the Cusco bars and adjustable links.
After reading your post about your Cusco Sway Bars w/ Adjustable Links... I decided that is what I want 2008 FJ Cruiser 4x4!!

Do you know of an online site that has the best prices for these Cusco Sway Bars?
(Cusco themselves are selling both the front and rear for: $775.00)

Thank You Sir
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Addco sway bars for the 08 are about 400 bucks for the pair ,I just installed the rear 2301 a couple months ago the 2314 Front is on back order and will be in production any day now I was told by Addco ,I was going to order Cusco first but there rear bar dosent fit the 4x4 w locker I think was the fitment issue and there price was steep so then I found Addco and ordered the Front/ Rear sway bars, The rear bar made a big difference so far I look forward to the Front bar install .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Addco sway bars for the 08 are about 400 bucks for the pair ,I just installed the rear 2301 a couple months ago the 2314 Front is on back order and will be in production any day now I was told by Addco ,I was going to order Cusco first but there rear bar dosent fit the 4x4 w locker I think was the fitment issue and there price was steep so then I found Addco and ordered the Front/ Rear sway bars, The rear bar made a big difference so far I look forward to the Front bar install .
Great, Thank You Sir!!

Did you measure to see what the difference in diameter was between the Stock and the Addco Rear Sway Bar? (I'm Curious to know)

Did you also order the Addco End Links or use the Stock End links?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Stock rear sway bar is 17mm the Addco is 22mm ,I used the stock endlinks .
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top