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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
07 FJ with about 150k on the odo.

The codes are c0205 c1202 c1223 c1241 c1249 p0504 All lights where pulled as current codes and not stored. Lights do shut off after cycling the ignition.


The P0504 is not triggering a check engine light but does show current.

These codes reference the driver side front speed sensor, brake switch and for some reason a low brake fluid or open circuit code.. not sure why they would combine low fluid with a open circuit code.

I have been having this on and off issue with the 4 usual lights that like to come on at random. The ABS Trac and so on. I have had this issue since 2013 and it has gotten progressively worse. I see that these 4 lights coming on is a common thing. But I was able to pull codes while they where on at a OReillys. Searching for these codes individually makes the results way too broad to really narrow anything down. Nothing really comes up when I search with all codes combined. This issue will go on for several days then stop coming on for a long period of time

Here is a little break down on what happens. This can happen at random times. I can can be driving for any random amount of time, but these do seem to trigger right as soon as i would press the brake pedal. I initially though it could be the brake switch, which I unplugged to test before, but did not make a difference with the issue. I do have codes pointing to the brake switch but like I said, I unplugged the switch with no issues. Brake lights function as normal. I do have a remote start installed, and I do have the brake wire tapped for engine kill, and I did disconnect the remote start wire from the brake wire and the problem still exists. I even removed the remote start all together to make sure..

All my connections are done by military splice and then soldered. For those that are unfamiliar with military splices. It is a connection that is done with out cutting of the wire. You remove part of the insulation, then use a pick to make a through hole in the middle of the conductor. Then the connecting wire is inserted through like a sewing needle and then wrapped around making the hole you just made close up. It is one of the most secure and best connections on a wire if you have to tap a wire.

Another thing that likes to happen at random times is that I would have severe voltage drop when I apply the brake. Now this isn't a usual .5 of a voltage drop.. The voltage has dropped to 8 volts at some points. I think it also is related to why I now have a random voltage drop even while driving with out applying the brake after 30 mins. That will drop the voltage drop to 6 volts and shuts everything down for less than a second. This is the only adverse thing that happens. Everything still functions as intended.

I recently had to change my front driver side wheel bearing and noticed that my speed sensor was covered in grease, I did clean it off. 1 of the codes referenced does point to the driver side wheel sensor. But like I said, codes are current. I did notice that my throttle response got better after I cleaned the sensor off and bearing change so I can only assume that it still working? That is if it has any relation to why I noticed it being a little more peppy. Or maybe its just the rolling resistance of the new bearing. But being in Michigan with the ever growing pot holes, when I do hit a pot hole while braking, the ABS does kick on.

Before I did the wheel bearing, I did have to do my brake pads and rotors. The passenger side pads wore out way too quick. Like the front passenger side went out first, but only the outside facing pad wore out as the other had over 50% pad life left, and the driver side would also be even. I took it as possibly being a bad pad, then a week later started hearing grinding again and noticed the pad on the passenger rear outside facing, same as front, was grinding as well. The other 3 pads still showing a lot of life left.

I am wondering if what is going on is having a connection to why those pads wore out like they did. I also have been thinking it may be the ABS module going out.

I have tried to go through all connections to make sure they are clean and snapped in, I have not gone through each wire yet to see if they show any resistance with a open circuit. Im not sure if there is a service manual that has what I am looking for in reference of these circuits. I mean this does scream electrical issue but for me to really dig in to the wires, I would like to know what every wire is supposed to be reading.

So with that being said, has anyone seen or experienced something like this before? If so any tips on a fix or at least maybe someone has the documentation for the circuits so I can hunt some things down? I am pretty electrical and mechanically inclined and do all the work on my own vehicles so taking it to the dealer to hunt this down is really out of the option. I really dont want to just start changing random parts. As you can see with my post count, I rarely post. I rarely post about issues I have as I can usually find out my issue with searching, but this problem has me pretty baffled. And since this is my only car, I need to figure it out soon. I did tag the thread with my codes in hopes that if this happens to anyone else it can be found.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ever find a solution? I have similar codes appearing
Mine came out to be bad brake switch and very old brake fluid causing the accumulator to prime all the time. What was causing my voltage drop mentioned earlier in my post was the brake accumulator working its ass off. I would hear it prime all the time. Which at the time of this initial posting, I wasn’t aware of the cause of the sound. I found out after having to replace a caliper and flushing all of the fluid out that the priming all the time stopped and my voltage never dropped and haven’t had the lights pop up since.
 
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