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Discussion Starter #41
@Loganbeere When you dropped your rear axle, did you also loosen the rear links? When I dropped mine, we disconnected the panhard bar, but not the links. Like you, we had to use a bottle jack to push the axle down far enough to install 2" lift springs. I'm wondering what is preventing the axle from dropping fully on its own, and guessing it's the stock rear link bushings binding up.
 

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@Loganbeere When you dropped your rear axle, did you also loosen the rear links? When I dropped mine, we disconnected the panhard bar, but not the links. Like you, we had to use a bottle jack to push the axle down far enough to install 2" lift springs. I'm wondering what is preventing the axle from dropping fully on its own, and guessing it's the stock rear link bushings binding up.
The stock axle is held by rear upper links, lower links and the panhard to the frame. It’s also attached to the third member and driveshaft. I’m assuming that’s what’s all keeping it suspended
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Mike Studt’s rear sway bar links
Installed the rears today—should have bought myself a floor jack before I started, but at least now I have a new floor jack. I’m getting pretty good at pulling the rear tires. My F1 career has hope yet.





Ordered both front and rears, but need to get the right ball joint boots for the front before I install. Skeptical I’ll ever use the front disconnects, but it’s a nice option to have I suppose.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
King reservoir hose guards
Probably gratuitous, but I didn’t like how the hoses resting on the sharp edge of the reservoirs started digging into the rubber. Printed these little guards to provide a rounded surfaces for the hoses to rest on. Plus, they look kinda cool.


 

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King reservoir hose guards
Probably gratuitous, but I didn’t like how the hoses resting on the sharp edge of the reservoirs started digging into the rubber. Printed these little guards to provide a rounded surfaces for the hoses to rest on. Plus, they look kinda cool.




Looks great. I noticed mines has a mark there too. If you print out some more I would like to buy a pair


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Discussion Starter #48
Durobumps
The rear Kings had about the same amount of shaft extension as the distance from the axle to the bottom of the bump stops—doubt that was actually going to engage the stops on a hard hit before bottoming out on the shock piston, so I initially bought some Toytec 2” spacers. Then I found Durobumps.

Off came the Toytecs...almost. Not too impressed with the 5mm Allen bolts holding them on—managed to strip out one of the heads while removing. Dremeled a slot in the head and slowly backed it out with a screwdriver. Didn’t think that trick would work, but it does!




The Durobumps look like they’ll do the job—2” spacers eat up a lot of uptravel, so hopefully having something with more give brings back a little travel and softens the hits. One note: The rear bolts that they ship with are not long enough to accommodate King reservoir mounts. I’ll be replacing these soon. I wrote Curtis at Durobumps, so hopefully he includes longer bolts with future kits.

 

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Durobumps
The rear Kings had about the same amount of shaft extension as the distance from the axle to the bottom of the bump stops—doubt that was actually going to engage the stops on a hard hit before bottoming out on the shock piston, so I initially bought some Toytec 2” spacers. Then I found Durobumps.

Off came the Toytecs...almost. Not too impressed with the 5mm Allen bolts holding them on—managed to strip out one of the heads while removing. Dremeled a slot in the head and slowly backed it out with a screwdriver. Didn’t think that trick would work, but it does!




The Durobumps look like they’ll do the job—2” spacers eat up a lot of uptravel, so hopefully having something with more give brings back a little travel and softens the hits. One note: The rear bolts that they ship with are not long enough to accommodate King reservoir mounts. I’ll be replacing these soon. I wrote Curtis at Durobumps, so hopefully he includes longer bolts with future kits.



I’ve looked at these for the front. Interested to see what you think of them after testing them out


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Discussion Starter #50
I’ve looked at these for the front. Interested to see what you think of them after testing them out
I looked with skepticism, but there are a lot of people raving about them. I don't need 2" of bump stop spacers, so this should be a good compromise. Probably won't be a lot to report, but I'll keep you posted.

I also heard back from Curtis and he dropped a set of longer bolts in the mail, free of charge. Good guy--looks like they might include longer bolts in future kits.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Life on the Skids
After doing lots of homework, I decided to follow @Briareos hybrid skid plate plan:
https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/4x4-off-road-tech/352226-aluminum-skid-plates-your-experiences-5.html#post7204234 Several good points in there, and for my needs aluminum skids are ideal—light and strong enough for the occasional surprise rock or stump, no crawling.

Turns out Toyota discontinued the all-grey TRD front skid plate and replaced it with one that has god awful red plastic TRD lettering instead. The plastic letters attach through holes in the skid, so it looks goofy if you remove them. I hunted for quite a while to find an original TRD skid—handily, the same skid fits both the FJ and 4Runner, and I found one on another forum in good shape, but without any hardware...Not sure why Toyota deems it necessary to have 1” of threads sticking through the skid plate mounting points rather than reuse the rear bolts from the factory cover plate, but hey. I needed a thread tap set anyway...

The RCI integration skid install was a cinch—great instructions with photos. The Ricochet skids...well. While they are beautifully made and high quality, the instructions are maybe the most confusing thing I have read for an American-made product. The best part is the all caps use of “ANTERIOR”, “POSTERIOR”, and “SUPERIOR”, throughout. Why not just “front”, “rear”, and “above”? The parts bags are labeled with numbers that aren’t mentioned anywhere else. I did some digging and found an older set of PDF instructions from Ricochet that had actual photos, along with part numbers for the different pieces that corresponded to the ones on the bags. With that, along with a few forum posts, the install only took me..five-ish hours (including grinding the freshly painted crossmember to fit properly in the frame, which still required a fair bit of hammering to get into place). Much of the time was spent trying to get everything to fit. Pro tip: keep everything—EVERYTHING—loose until every single bolt is threaded in a few turns. Then tighten systematically from ANTERIOR to POSTERIOR. Then, if your neck will still hold your head up, have all the beers as indicated in the instructions.

I was way too engrossed in solving this Rubik’s cube to take many photos along the way, so here’s one of the finished product:
 

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When you decide to make the trip, let me know. There is more than one route through central Oregon and Washington that is spectacular. And who doesn't love road tripping with a baby? :wink


Definitely on the bucket list my friend. I will get a hold of you when I do.


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King reservoir hose guards
Probably gratuitous, but I didn’t like how the hoses resting on the sharp edge of the reservoirs started digging into the rubber. Printed these little guards to provide a rounded surfaces for the hoses to rest on. Plus, they look kinda cool.


G'Day Mate,
Found your hose guards ... they look perfect.... if you ever make some more.... let me know and I'll take a pair
thanks
Cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Who likes pizza?



My Coopers were old, cracked, cupped, and loud as hell, so I decided to spring for the BFG KO2s in a 34x10.5 R17. I had been eyeballing these for months, but ruled them out because they are nearly $80 per tire more than 285/70s. But after finding them for sale from a popular off-roading retailer that was offering to cover the sales tax and shipping, they ended up being only a couple hundred bucks more expensive than tires I was way less excited about. So, I figured I'd see if @Discount Tire would price match and not only did they match the deal, they gave me the forum discount on top of it. Great experience working with them from start to finish, and they're a supporting vendor. Shameless plug for DT, and well deserved.

I was sweating the fit of 34s--BFGs are notoriously under-spec on diameter, but they're still bigger than the 280/75 Coopers. They fit, but they do rub the front mudflaps on full lock in both forward and reverse. I also have 1.25" spacers, so once I take those off and pull the mudflaps, I expect no further issues. I will say a few things about the ride: I bought my FJ with the E-rated Coopers, which were already cupped and worn from bad alignment. I had NO idea how loud, heavy and hard these things were until I switched to a new, D-rated tire. The KO2s are so soft and quiet by comparison, I keep thinking I'm aired down. I can actually hear the engine now. D-load tires are well within spec for my FJ, but they're getting harder to find, it seems. I had KO2s on my truck, so I know them well. They are so predictable they're almost boring, which is great in a tire. What's surprising is that, because they're lighter than the Coopers, they accelerate faster despite being larger in diameter. I imagine the narrower profile helps. Looking forward to seeing how they affect my mileage. I do love the beefy look of wide tires, but pizza cutters make more sense for just about everything except deep snow and sand. Read this if you want to nerd out on it.
 

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umami, Thank you for the awesome photo along with documenting your initial thoughts on the change in tires. Your FJ looks fantastic.

When I first looked at the photo with the caption "Who Likes Pizza" I thought of the leaning tower of Pisa behind your FJ. I have to say I like pizza very much. Good choice on your new tires. Glad we could help.

We appreciate your support.
 

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Who likes pizza?



My Coopers were old, cracked, cupped, and loud as hell, so I decided to spring for the BFG KO2s in a 34x10.5 R17. I had been eyeballing these for months, but ruled them out because they are nearly $80 per tire more than 285/70s. But after finding them for sale from a popular off-roading retailer that was offering to cover the sales tax and shipping, they ended up being only a couple hundred bucks more expensive than tires I was way less excited about. So, I figured I'd see if @Discount Tire would price match and not only did they match the deal, they gave me the forum discount on top of it. Great experience working with them from start to finish, and they're a supporting vendor. Shameless plug for DT, and well deserved.

I was sweating the fit of 34s--BFGs are notoriously under-spec on diameter, but they're still bigger than the 280/75 Coopers. They fit, but they do rub the front mudflaps on full lock in both forward and reverse. I also have 1.25" spacers, so once I take those off and pull the mudflaps, I expect no further issues. I will say a few things about the ride: I bought my FJ with the E-rated Coopers, which were already cupped and worn from bad alignment. I had NO idea how loud, heavy and hard these things were until I switched to a new, D-rated tire. The KO2s are so soft and quiet by comparison, I keep thinking I'm aired down. I can actually hear the engine now. D-load tires are well within spec for my FJ, but they're getting harder to find, it seems. I had KO2s on my truck, so I know them well. They are so predictable they're almost boring, which is great in a tire. What's surprising is that, because they're lighter than the Coopers, they accelerate faster despite being larger in diameter. I imagine the narrower profile helps. Looking forward to seeing how they affect my mileage. I do love the beefy look of wide tires, but pizza cutters make more sense for just about everything except deep snow and sand. Read this if you want to nerd out on it.
looks great and fills the wheel wells nicely.
 
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