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Discussion Starter #401
Any competent machine shop should be able to take care of shortening the shaft for you 3mm and extending the splines if needed.
I did on my rear axle shafts when I built it. Very easy process, just take your time and a little water will help. I cut both down by about 3/16".
Since I don't think I need any extension of the splines as I have a lot of contact area, I'm going to have a go at taking about 1/8" off myself. I have the chop saw, so it's worth a go. I can always back out of it if I screw up too badly and take it to a shop. Seems like something I'd like to be able to claim I was doing at the weekend :)


I remember I had to pull one of my shafts because the bolt pattern from currie was not lined up right. I know the seals were trashed and I am pretty sure we had to get new bearings as well.
I made sure to be really careful pulling the axles. The wheel-end seals and bearings are undamaged. The only one I might need to look at is the LHS inner - this can be done by doing a 'tilt' test, putting it back level, pulling the LHS shaft out a little and seeing if I got any fluid in the tubes. My guess is that it's actually OK, but we'll see. I was also able to test the full diff / ARB locker after all of this shenanigans and it's all functioning on spec, so I think (fingers crossed) I got away without damaging anything significant.

My guess with this is that if it has been a currie 3rd in the housing, they could have tested the mate of the system end-to-end before I picked it up, but since I got the 3rd separately sourced and delivered straight to me, there was no way to set the details of the fit until, well, this past weekend. (Makes you wonder how they ever got all of the bits on the space station to work right - but then my axle didn't cost like $100bn). Actually amazes me that all of this stuff actually did fit to within 3mm given that everything on the housing is custom fab'ed (welded) from the fraken-bits of the RockJock ends, the Currie fabricated center, etc.
 

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Since I don't think I need any extension of the splines as I have a lot of contact area, I'm going to have a go at taking about 1/8" off myself. I have the chop saw, so it's worth a go. I can always back out of it if I screw up too badly and take it to a shop. Seems like something I'd like to be able to claim I was doing at the weekend :)
One other thing that was helpful for me. Before I cut the ends of the axle shaft off I noticed that the splines had a slight bevel to them. I assumed the bevel would make it easier to insert the axle shaft into the side gears of the diff. After cutting the ends off you will be left with sharp 90* angles. I used a grinder to put a similar bevel back on the end of the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #403
Shortening the axle shaft

Thanks for all the advice - it turned out to be easier than I expected.

Background: The problem was that when I buttoned up my rear axle, the whole system would bind when I tried to fully install the axle shafts, and specifically the RHS axle shaft. Some searching online suggested the axle shaft was very slightly too long. This squared with the fact that the whole system would work fine when the RHS shaft was pulled out by a couple of millimeters, but then bind on tightening the bolts. Time to grind down the axle shafts.

I ended up following the instructions in this post from a Mustang forum. Out came the chop saw, and slow, steady cutting was the order of the day. I only took off about 1/8th (very slightly longer than was strictly needed). Followed Sol's advice and used a good amount of water to keep things cool.

The chop saw setup:



Ended up using the guide on the deck to get the angle square in the horizontal and a little angle finder to level with the deck in the vertical:



Part way through the cut:




Sol had mentioned the tapered lip of the end of the axle. The Mustang forum suggested using the chop saw with the axle at 45 degrees. By only using the "vice" on the desk to guide and not lock the axle, I was able to turn the axle continuously while grinding:





When done, I scrubbed the spines out with a wire brush, and then cleaned out each spline by hand with a rag (as the late Brian Hanrahan said, "I counted them all out and I counted them all back"- all 35 spines). No burs or sharp edges, no shavings.

OK, so how well did I do? Well, I might not have been overly impressed if this was a job I'd paid for. I sort of got it flat, but only sort of. It's very smooth to the touch, but you can tell there's a fraction of a mm "relief" on the end. But the 45deg lip turned out pretty good:




Victory is mine! The axle now bolts together just fine and functions!

 

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Discussion Starter #406

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Discussion Starter #408
Who did you go with on the drive shaft? I used Tom Woods; they were easy to work with.
I ended up ordering one from High Angle Driveline... Although my driveline won't need to be all that high angle initially :) After chatting with them about it, I'm going to stick with the 1350 on the 3rd end and use the Toyota minitruck bolt pattern on the Inchworm flange.
 

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excellent build!

i had no idea you were going thru the axle install the same time i was doing mine. i did copy you and buy the carport to help regulate the weather.

i think you did a fine job cutting the axle shaft down, i bet that was really time consuming!
 

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Discussion Starter #413
i had no idea you were going thru the axle install the same time i was doing mine. i did copy you and buy the carport to help regulate the weather.
The carport thing has been crucial for me both on the wet days and on the summer days. The tarp just wasn't cutting it :) Your's looks a little nicer setup. I need to get a light rig in there.

Yeah, I've definitely had a vested interest at looking at the axles, mounts, etc. Been very useful to be able to see what you've been doing and then especially stuff like raising questions I hadn't even thought about / forgot (e.g. those darn o-rings! :))
 

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Re: Re: the mir207 machine

The carport thing has been crucial for me both on the wet days and on the summer days. The tarp just wasn't cutting it :) Your's looks a little nicer setup. I need to get a light rig in there.

Yeah, I've definitely had a vested interest at looking at the axles, mounts, etc. Been very useful to be able to see what you've been doing and then especially stuff like raising questions I hadn't even thought about / forgot (e.g. those darn o-rings! :))
I actually just picked up that carport at Costco for $219 and I think its a excellent price for the quality of it. I bring it my propane heater on cold nights and it actually heats up the tent in like 10 minutes

During this whole install I've been just taking my time and comparing all the oem service manuals to make sure it all goes back correctly. I've also taken the time to really go over everything in front and underneath. I really need to paint my underside like you did. Did you do rattle can or like por15?

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Discussion Starter #415
I actually just picked up that carport at Costco for $219 and I think its a excellent price for the quality of it. I bring it my propane heater on cold nights and it actually heats up the tent in like 10 minutes

During this whole install I've been just taking my time and comparing all the oem service manuals to make sure it all goes back correctly. I've also taken the time to really go over everything in front and underneath. I really need to paint my underside like you did. Did you do rattle can or like por15?
Yeah, that's a better deal than mine - Costco is the way to go. I also probably should probably have gotten one a bit bigger - it's a few feet too narrow and too short (but I also have limited footprint area as the drive slopes of real bad much further forward).

The whole slow and steady has been the only way I can manage - for everything I do it's usually the first time I've done it, so the research reading part is like 5x the duration of the actual doing.

What I did is I scrubbed pretty much the whole thing down with a degreaser (I ended up just getting the whole POR line, but there are cheaper and just as good stuff out there - the POR degreaser is "Marine Clean"). That was the longest job as the truck was a disaster underneath (those photos / movie of the underside like 10 pages back were all orange as I had half of Utah up under the truck). With the frame and other bits of steel, I then used the "Metal Prep" and then finally on with the POR-15. I was actually kind of surprised, though, that aside from a little surface rust, once all the dirt was off, the frame actually looked really good. Hopefully that isn't bad for the POR-15 binding (since it is designed to used rust as its binding surface). I could probably have gotten away with just rattle can - I was just excited about the idea of painting the sucker with POR-15 just to see how well / poorly it works over time.

The exhaust was a disaster, though. Getting very rusty in places. Same cleaning and prep process, but I used the higher temp POR-20. It needs heat to properly cure, so I ran the engine for a while after I painted it. No idea if this was actually a good idea / will work.

The aluminium bits (really, just the aux tank) were done with alumiprep, anodine, the an epoxy undercoat. Finally just rattle can on top.

And then just rattle can for random other bits on the underside for good measure. Nothing on the various plastic bits, like the fuel tank skid, etc. that seem to have held up really well.
 

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Discussion Starter #416

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Discussion Starter #417
Same setup I did, but didn't use high angle. No issues here.
Sweet.

Looking forward to getting the drive shaft on - it'll almost feel like a truck again...
 

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Re: Re: the mir207 machine

Yeah, that's a better deal than mine - Costco is the way to go. I also probably should probably have gotten one a bit bigger - it's a few feet too narrow and too short (but I also have limited footprint area as the drive slopes of real bad much further forward).

The whole slow and steady has been the only way I can manage - for everything I do it's usually the first time I've done it, so the research reading part is like 5x the duration of the actual doing.

What I did is I scrubbed pretty much the whole thing down with a degreaser (I ended up just getting the whole POR line, but there are cheaper and just as good stuff out there - the POR degreaser is "Marine Clean"). That was the longest job as the truck was a disaster underneath (those photos / movie of the underside like 10 pages back were all orange as I had half of Utah up under the truck). With the frame and other bits of steel, I then used the "Metal Prep" and then finally on with the POR-15. I was actually kind of surprised, though, that aside from a little surface rust, once all the dirt was off, the frame actually looked really good. Hopefully that isn't bad for the POR-15 binding (since it is designed to used rust as its binding surface). I could probably have gotten away with just rattle can - I was just excited about the idea of painting the sucker with POR-15 just to see how well / poorly it works over time.

The exhaust was a disaster, though. Getting very rusty in places. Same cleaning and prep process, but I used the higher temp POR-20. It needs heat to properly cure, so I ran the engine for a while after I painted it. No idea if this was actually a good idea / will work.

The aluminium bits (really, just the aux tank) were done with alumiprep, anodine, the an epoxy undercoat. Finally just rattle can on top.

And then just rattle can for random other bits on the underside for good measure. Nothing on the various plastic bits, like the fuel tank skid, etc. that seem to have held up really well.
Actually I think knowing you did it all with por15 I think I'll ho ahead and do the same. I have a gallon of it in my garage (purchased it for my expo trailer build) half my skids are off so I might as well pull the rest and do the detailed job like you do cause it looks spectacular

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Discussion Starter #420
Re: Travel with 3" MT bumpstops

What is the deciding factor with the metaltech drops, 2" / 3" ?

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I got them a while ago and back then I think they only had the 3". From my measurements, it looks to me like I'm actually going to want to use the 2". I'm going to hold off on changing any of this until I get the axle back under and then cycle / measure again with the shocks and drive shaft in place. I also have to tune the length of the jounce extension shafts to make sure they actually engage in the last 1.5" of travel. The other thing I'm really going to have to look at is the spring rates. I'm like 95% certain I'm going to need to change out the dual-zone springs that MT have as standard in this kit for higher rates (still dual zone). I sort of got some of this stuff piecemeal before realizing what I was going to actually need - and some of it I got knowing that it probably wasn't going to work, but I wanted to see it / measure it on the truck before I could form an opinion of what I actually needed. Might be some spares going up for sales after all this is done... :)
 
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