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Discussion Starter #421
Actually I think knowing you did it all with por15 I think I'll ho ahead and do the same. I have a gallon of it in my garage (purchased it for my expo trailer build) half my skids are off so I might as well pull the rest and do the detailed job like you do cause it looks spectacular
And then the sad things is the first trip out offroad and it'll look as dirty as hell again. Ah well... :rofl: I'll always have the memories (photos)...
 

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Re: Re: the mir207 machine

And then the sad things is the first trip out offroad and it'll look as dirty as hell again. Ah well... :rofl: I'll always have the memories (photos)...
That may be true but the benefit is having the rust protection. My truck is close to 9 years old and I have some minor rust spots so this will definatrky benefit myself. I removed my budbuilts tonight and scrubbed them clean and then soaked the underside with degreaser then scrubbed away. Plan to do the por15 treatment on Saturday.

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Discussion Starter #423
That may be true but the benefit is having the rust protection. My truck is close to 9 years old and I have some minor rust spots so this will definatrky benefit myself. I removed my budbuilts tonight and scrubbed them clean and then soaked the underside with degreaser then scrubbed away. Plan to do the por15 treatment on Saturday.
Yeah - I think the piece of mind that you've got it protected the best you can was key for me.

My skids were really starting to rust from the powder coat having come off pretty good. So they took the POR 15 really well. I figure even when I scratch them up again, I've now got a good base on them and if I catch the new scratches quickly with rattle can I can keep it better under control.
 

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I too am installing my Currie rear end, and I seem to have the same problem as Mark, after talking to him. Looks like I'm going to have to take a little off of my axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #426
Been so busy with work, I've barely had chance to touch the FJ. In the mean time, my drive shaft and rear shocks arrived on Friday.

I did get a couple of hours today to look at the shocks. I had to get some sleeves in the bottom eyelets to have them work with the Currie axle mounts. This was a bit of a pain until I figured out that I could partially compress them on with the bolt, nut, and some spacers. I then finished the compression off in a vice.





With the sleeves finally in, I could look at whether the eyelets would fit in the mounts (previously, I'd had to grind the mounts down to get my older OME's to fit). Sure enough, I needed more angle grinding and dremeling to get the Icon's in):








There's also an issue that the sides of the Currie mounts interfere with lateral motion of the shocks. I ground some off the inside of the mounts, but am also thinking about taking some of the sides of the bottom shock mount plastic - still need to think about whether this is a good idea:





Still need to figure out my technique for getting the nut on top of the bolt on top of the shocks (nothing new here, just never done it before):




I'm also going to have to figure out how to run the hose so as not to foul on the bump stop:

 

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Discussion Starter #427
Finally got some more time today. Shocks went in easy - just needed to press up good on them. The thinking is the hoses will run round behind (inboard of) the bump stops. Current limit on down travel is the (upper) arm contact on the tank and (lower) arm contacts on the axle (eliminating the last inch or so of travel). I'm thinking that I'm going to try to adjust out the upper arms and clock the rear axle very slightly to get this back (it'll also get the axle in better alignment with the drive shaft). This will definitely get the lowers unbound at max shock droop - might even get the upper off the tank. Now have to think where exactly to set the bump stop at and (more flexibility here: ) where to set the jounce extensions at (ran out of time to properly flex up the axle / measure).

 

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Been so busy with work, I've barely had chance to touch the FJ. In the mean time, my drive shaft and rear shocks arrived on Friday.

I did get a couple of hours today to look at the shocks. I had to get some sleeves in the bottom eyelets to have them work with the Currie axle mounts. This was a bit of a pain until I figured out that I could partially compress them on with the bolt, nut, and some spacers. I then finished the compression off in a vice.


With the sleeves finally in, I could look at whether the eyelets would fit in the mounts (previously, I'd had to grind the mounts down to get my older OME's to fit). Sure enough, I needed more angle grinding and dremeling to get the Icon's in):




There's also an issue that the sides of the Currie mounts interfere with lateral motion of the shocks. I ground some off the inside of the mounts, but am also thinking about taking some of the sides of the bottom shock mount plastic - still need to think about whether this is a good idea:


Still need to figure out my technique for getting the nut on top of the bolt on top of the shocks (nothing new here, just never done it before):



I'm also going to have to figure out how to run the hose so as not to foul on the bump stop:
Looks Very Good!

i just realized a few weeks ago i was going to have to clearance my shocks mounts just like this to clear my kings.

what did you use to clearance? i was planning on using a rotary file on my drill
 

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Discussion Starter #430
Looks Very Good!

i just realized a few weeks ago i was going to have to clearance my shocks mounts just like this to clear my kings.

what did you use to clearance? i was planning on using a rotary file on my drill
It's looking good! Sweet fab work to make that shock fit too!
Thanks.

The major removal of material last spring was done with an angle grinder. The fine fitting I just did with a dremel with a diamond metal grinding head. Think in retrospect that the dremel is the way to have gone from the start.
 

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Discussion Starter #437
I step away for a few days and ... :)

I've been doing my usual one-hour here, etc. stuff. What I've sort of got done is:

1. Got the drive shaft on and made sure it runs smoothly from a by-eye perspective. Checked clearances, etc. - looks pretty good.

2. Got the rear shocks on - but still not put the reservoir brackets on.

3. Cycled the axle with the full 3rd in place - am getting some rubbing on the armor, so I'm going angle grind that at some point.

4. Determined that no one wants to build me a bent rear upper arm. I think I can only tolerate about 10 deg because of potentially hitting the underside at full tuck (try saying that fast :) ) - but I'm leaving about 1" of symmetric down travel (that's available in the shock) on the table with the gas tank contact even after adjusting the upper arms to maximize this / avoid lower arm contact.

5. Determined that the 2" bump stop extensions are the way to go.

6. Trying to figure out what length limit strap to go with and where to mount.

7. Trying to figure out the tube extension length to add to the rear jounces.

Think that's about it :)

Been super busy with work...

Thanks for checking up on the world's slowest rear axle build :) The count down to two years off-road (in the bad sense) comes up in August! Got to beat that deadline! - especially with this weekend looking like glorious clear sky desert weather...
 

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Whew....that was scary for a second. :lol: Can't wait to see the finished product. :bigthumb:
 
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