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Discussion Starter #462 (Edited)
Inspired by SDH500 from 2013, I've official begun my sound-reduction project. Haven't had quite the patience to cover everything in foil, but this turkey definitely seems ready for the oven:








Strictly speaking, the butyl foil matting isn't needed on all the area. I went overboard and covered some structural beams, but the main thing it's for is to stop "drum effects" on large metal panels (as far as I could find on online research).

Next up, I'm going to be adding some closed-cell neoprene foam (isolator and limited absorber) and then a layer of mass loaded vinyl (absorber). In some areas, there'll also be some 3M thinsulate going on for thermal and some extra acoustic absorption/isolation.

Also been sizing up the mount for an ARB drawer I have:







The drawer frame is going to get mounted to a plywood board that is, in turn, mounted to the stock mount points. The ARB instructions want the frame mounted on (drilled through) the floor, but I have an aux tank under the back, and can't get to the underside where they want the mount bolts to come out to.
 

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Might as well go all-out with the deadening. Leaving nothing in the back of your mind later, going down the road. You'll be glad you did the entire roof. Mine vibrates like a tin can going down the highway. Mostly due to my roof rack.

I secured my smaller drawer to the plywood base I made.
 

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Discussion Starter #464
I secured my smaller drawer to the plywood base I made.
I did a quick search on your build thread: Your plywood base looks to mount up over the rear mount points - how did you deal with the slope? (i.e., that those rear points are like an inch or so off the floor of the vehicle?) My board was going to stop just short, remain continuously in contact with the floor, and then use a bracket to attach to the rear mount points (the board top is just about level with the stock tied down thread locations in this case). But your continuous board looks much cleaner, so I'm now thinking I might try and rip your design off.
 

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I did a quick search on your build thread: Your plywood base looks to mount up over the rear mount points - how did you deal with the slope? (i.e., that those rear points are like an inch or so off the floor of the vehicle?) My board was going to stop just short, remain continuously in contact with the floor, and then use a bracket to attach to the rear mount points (the board top is just about level with the stock tied down thread locations in this case). But your continuous board looks much cleaner, so I'm now thinking I might try and rip your design off.
Its been awhile, I don't remember them being uneven. My plywood goes over all 4 tie down holes. Then I just used extended bolts for the tie downs and put them on top of the plywood. Go for it!
 

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I did a quick search on your build thread: Your plywood base looks to mount up over the rear mount points - how did you deal with the slope? (i.e., that those rear points are like an inch or so off the floor of the vehicle?) My board was going to stop just short, remain continuously in contact with the floor, and then use a bracket to attach to the rear mount points (the board top is just about level with the stock tied down thread locations in this case). But your continuous board looks much cleaner, so I'm now thinking I might try and rip your design off.
I haven’t finished the job yet, but I plan to install my ARB drawer to a plywood base that attaches to the factory mounting points as well and cover the rear mount points. The spacers used in the ARB instructions / kit have a slope to them (rear spacers are higher than the front spacers). The spacer difference is less than the height of the rear mount points, but the spacers are also much closer together. I’m planning to measure the angle that the ARB spacers would have created and compare that to the angle of the plywood base. And rout out 1/8” to 1/4” of the plywood (if needed) above the rear mount points to create a comparable slope +/-.

I was staring to wonder if I was overthinking this installation. I’m glad to hear someone else is concerned with the same thing!


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Discussion Starter #467 (Edited)
This is the floor configuration, I have the stock mount hole near the rear door that's flush with the floor (I've labeled this the "front mount", but it's the one at the back of the vehicle). The mount at the back of the drawers would be the one nominally poking through the sloping bit of floor plastic near the rear seat mounts (I've labeled this "rear mount"). This sits up about an inch about the vehicle floor. So a plank that sits on both mount points would steadily come up from the floor. My only concern with this was whether the weight of the drawer (and bouncing in trails) would progressively brake the board. So that's why I had been thinking about allowing the board to remain plush against the floor and bolting it from the top into the "rear mounts" with a bracket.



A 1" board laying flat on the rear vehicle floor has it's top nearly plush with the level of the "rear mount" (by my weirdly rotated labels):




Yeah, I saw the spacers ARB included. I was figuring that if I had the board plus against the vehicle floor, I could just replace some of the spacer layers with the board thickness. I think I'd still need to use one (rather than 3) of the spacers for the mount nearest the rear door.
 

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Discussion Starter #468
The spacers used in the ARB instructions / kit have a slope to them (rear spacers are higher than the front spacers). The spacer difference is less than the height of the rear mount points, but the spacers are also much closer together. I’m planning to measure the angle that the ARB spacers would have created and compare that to the angle of the plywood base. And rout out 1/8” to 1/4” of the plywood (if needed) above the rear mount points to create a comparable slope +/-.
I think unfortunately, the slope that ARB want is opposite to that that we get from the projection of the mount points nearest the rear seats. Resting a board on those would create a slope sloping down towards the rear door. The ARB instructions imply the mount nearest the rear door should have a 32mm spacer stack with the mount near the rear seats having a 26mm stack. I think this slope is so as to have the draw default to slide closed versus slide open when the vehicle is level (?) (I guess it might be to offset stock vehicle rake on level ground - not sure :) )
 

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I think unfortunately, the slope that ARB want is opposite to that that we get from the projection of the mount points nearest the rear seats. Resting a board on those would create a slope sloping down towards the rear door. The ARB instructions imply the mount nearest the rear door should have a 32mm spacer stack with the mount near the rear seats having a 26mm stack. I think this slope is so as to have the draw default to slide closed versus slide open when the vehicle is level (?) (I guess it might be to offset stock vehicle rake on level ground - not sure :) )
Wel that’s going to complicate things...



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Discussion Starter #470
Wel that’s going to complicate things...
:) The good thing is that 26mm is pretty much exactly 1", so a 1" board flat on the floor means that only one 6mm plastic spacer is needed near the rear door (i.e., one for each of the two bolts through the ARB drawer frame), and that near the rear seat the ARB draw frame can bolt directly to the board with no spacer needed at all. But that all assumes keeping the 1" board flush against the floor and then mounting. That probably is how I'll go and then just make a simple flat metal bracket to lie flush on top of the board (or with a washer or two) that will then tie into those mounts near the rear seats. If I get to it before you, I'll shoot and post up some photos.
 

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Mark, have you considered Riv-nuts? They would allow you to install the ARB brackets and hardware all from the top side. Presumably ARB did not locate them where they interfere with any of the stock structure or smog canister. Plenty of clearance from the Aux Tank (I'm sure because I have one too). With the rear wheels off you should be able to spray or brush some bed-liner over the riv-nuts and mounting bolts to seal things up.
 

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Discussion Starter #472
Mark, have you considered Riv-nuts? They would allow you to install the ARB brackets and hardware all from the top side. Presumably ARB did not locate them where they interfere with any of the stock structure or smog canister. Plenty of clearance from the Aux Tank (I'm sure because I have one too). With the rear wheels off you should be able to spray or brush some bed-liner over the riv-nuts and mounting bolts to seal things up.
I hadn't thought of rivnuts as I'd never heard of them before! (I'm a mechanical idiot). Just did some online searching. They sound ideal so long as there's enough strength from the small piece of the floor sheet metal grabbed by the compressed part of the rivnut. I guess it would only be violent bumps off road that would likely try and pull up / tear out the rivnuts. ARB have pretty beefy backplates to place between the nuts and the underside of the vehicle floor, which is the only lingering worry. I guess I could always put in a few more mount points than the 4 ARB propose to try and spread out any load from the vehicle bucking the drawers up on bumps...

(or maybe just make a few rivnut mount points near the rear seat mounts but still use the board, which would simplify not having to make a bracket to get to the stock mount points back there)
 

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Discussion Starter #473
These are the first few strips of neoprene foam mat to go in (1/2" deep) - the cross members will get covered in thinner mat so that I don't fill up too much depth above the headliner).





The material before being applied (bottom is an untouched roll, top are cutting bits from fitting to the roof spaces):

 

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Discussion Starter #474 (Edited)
Finally got the whole underside of the roof foam-covered. This has one piece missing, which is now fixed after more foam arrived:



One of the things the foam is there to do is to stop bits rattling. In the headliner space, there's not too much that can rattle, but in the olden days, they built FJ's without side curtain airbags - but they did give us groovy airbag volume simulators! Those are the pink plastic ice-cube trays clipped into the sides of the roof. But there's a reasonable amount of plastic-on-metal rattle potential here, so being careful to remove without breaking plastic:





I took them down and put some thin (1/16" and some 1/8" thick) neoprene sheeting behind:



Which is thin enough to allow reinstallation but kills any rattle:



Click here for the rattle video:

The final layer is going to be mass loaded vinyl, and I did one test area to make sure the glueing would work. This is 1/2lb/sqft MLV. I have a large sheet of it, but am going to cut into panels about 2ftx2ft because 1) the Weldwood Landau glue dries too quickly if I try to deal with larger pieces; 2) I have a hard time applying even 2ftx2ft sections smoothly without ripples; 3) if the glue does fail, I'd rather it fail by small panels getting loose behind the headliner rather than one weak area slowly pulling the whole sheet off.

The test area (will end up covering as much area as I can, including draping over the airbag volume simulators):





P.S. I just changed the image links out from Photobucket (legacy of 10-year old thinking) to Imgur as I got annoyed that the Photobucket links were coming up "image not available." (as of May 20).
 

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Discussion Starter #475 (Edited)
This post is mostly to try out options with hosting images via Imgur rather than the ever-so-flakey Photobucket. (Note: make sure the images get uploaded as Hidden rather than Public, otherwise you'll get brutally mocked and down-voted by tweens 😰 )

One more shot of the neoprene on the roof:



The Weldwood glue that I'm using is really designed for spraying via a compressor driven airtool spray gun, but I've been just using a brush. I've had the can open for about two weeks (I close it when not using), but it has been very noticeable how the consistency has changed due to evaporation over that time. Initially very runny, it now is almost at the end of usefulness. Somewhere in the middle is ideal for applying to the underside of the roof as you want some "sticking" to the brush so that you can actually get it up onto the ceiling but fluid enough that you can brush it out. The ideal consistency (and colour) is like that of the discharge from a good sinus infection. And speaking if which, you will definitely want to be using a good organic vapour mask with this and in a fully ventilated area:

(this is too thick, as show here, and needs to be brushed out - I shot the photo before brushing out to the thin coating level needed for use. You apply a thin coating on both the material to be stuck on, and to the surface to which it is to be stuck. You wait for it to try to a "tacky" level before combining. In the desert early summer, that means it's ready pretty much straight away. You then press together and it bites immediately. In fact, you get only one shot to get the positioning right).
 

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Discussion Starter #476 (Edited)
A full layer of the mass loaded vinyl is on. That was slow going due to 100F heat and having to wait for a new batch of glue. Next will be covering those ice cube trays and the headliner can then go back on.



I'm also becoming strangely obsessed with retrofitting my GM front overhead lights with a 2013-2014 stock crawl box (would be faux crawl, but would put my ATRAC and Locker switches up there). Pointless, but my 07 FJ is a 14FJ wannabe. And I already have a hole in the headliner there anyway. Investigating the backplate mount.



My once-'07 steering wheel controls are already 'faux-14:
 
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