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Who has had trouble with the Throw-out Bearing on their 6 speed manual transmission ?


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With the clutch "going completely out" do you mesn slippage or the pressure plate fragmented?
First i would ask to see the broken quill... if it had a pre-existing crack it should show signs of aging at some places on the fractured surface...
As easy as mine went on I am willing to bet it was an installer's error...
 

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With the clutch "going completely out" do you mesn slippage or the pressure plate fragmented?
First i would ask to see the broken quill... if it had a pre-existing crack it should show signs of aging at some places on the fractured surface...
As easy as mine went on I am willing to bet it was an installer's error...
I'm headed to the shop to see now. They said the sleeve is stuck on the now broken quill, so I'm not sure how much I'll actually be able to tell. There was no slippage the clutch just quit working altogether, I assume the pressure plate was fragmented, but haven't seen it yet. Even with all my research, this is still pretty new and slightly above my technical abilities and knowledge.
 

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If the pressure plate fragmented a cracked quill is a possibility.
 

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Update and Question....

Hi Folks! Well I just completed my repair and as recommended by y'all I did have the PDM Sleeve kit put in. Just got the truck back today! So here it is in a nutshell:

  • The mechanic that worked on my 2012 FJ installed the PDM Sleeve Kit as well as the URD Stage 3 Clutch, both of which I ordered from URD and supplied.
  • Although the techs maintained that they are taught never to put grease on or around the TOB the mechanic agreed to follow my request to add the grease. As a side note fyi a second tech who is a more recently certified mechanic said that the argument for not putting grease in this area centres around the notion that '...as the clutch wears the grease becomes an attractant for dust and will actually accelerate the wear of the bearing in time..." this was said as I explained the consensus that grease is required for this application. He offered this counter argument before he pulled apart the transmission and was able to see the damage for himself. When he actually saw the damage he stated that he can see why there is a call for grease, however, as I said he had long agreed to do whatever I preferred.
  • I was informed that it took quite a bit of persuasion to get the PDM SS sleeve in place. After some emery sanding & whatever apparatus he had to employ, the effort added up to an additional hour and a half of his time... so with respect to the recently posted quill breakage; my received report seems to support the idea that it could take quite a bit of working to get these sleeves in place.
  • I was told that they did not replace any of the TSB parts (i.e. pivot, or slave cylinder [I supplied the PDM modified bearing]) on my cruiser simply because my 2012 already had the new part numbers installed at original manufacture and they were still in good shape only required a fresh application of grease (at the pivot and slave of course). In other words, I took this as confirmation that the TSB alone would not have solved my problem... So a Huge thanks to those who insisted that the sleeve kit be included at all costs...!!!
So my question is specifically for those who installed the URD Stage 3 Clutch. I just picked up my truck earlier today, and even before I drove it the mechanic reported that the clutch feels really smooth. I agree with that after driving myself. The only concern I do have is that I (again a novice with all things clutch) find that the engagement point is right at the top of the pedal path... in other words, all of the action I get when changing gears happens within the first 3/4 inch of pressing the clutch. I ran into a buddy of mine who also has worked on cars/trucks for a living; and asked him if this was normal and he agreed that it was engaging far higher than he would prefer. What do you guys think? Is this normal for the URD; is there some sort of adjustment I (or a tech of course) can easily access to move the engagement range further down the pedal path... I'm wondering if this scenario can also be responsible for some bearings remaining in constant contact/activation with the pressure plate?

I'm sure the guys at my Toyo Dealership will happily adjust it if it does not mean another 6 hour tranny dismantle... but I'd like to know what the considerations are before I go in to address and possibly open a can of worms with them. Any feedback y'all can provide would be totally appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Sheldon

Pics of my damaged Quill:



FJ Quill Wear Photo by Scej12 | Photobucket

Alloy Close-up Photo by Scej12 | Photobucket
 

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It is not uncommon for the quill to be damaged enough that some light sanding is required. IIRC it's in the instructions that come with the PDM TSK.

Have them adjust the pedal free play (or lack there of) as they should have before allowing you to pick up your truck. Your engagement depending on the clutch may very well be higher. However, that should have been addressed to some degree by any competent mechanic in the first place.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CCwQFjAB&url=http://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007%20Toyota%20FJ%20Cruiser%20Repair%20Manual/Clutch/Clutch%20Pedal/01800210.pdf&ei=6ySNVZbrGMyMNvqugOAF&usg=AFQjCNGuHKIf94y6yux3d8dtzLh0M-l6LA&sig2=xwGAv01dAx9yW0eedZjGcA&bvm=bv.96782255,d.eXY

My PDM TSK with an OE clutch replacement is Honda light and buttery smooth even after about 50k. The TSK is good stuff.
 

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Instead of dealing with the quill (and all the issues with it), why dont people move to a hydraulic throwout bearing? Custom ones are not too expensive, and would fix the issue definitively. I ask this question because I have a newer 6spd FJ (2014 with 10k miles), and I am already planning on how to attack this. I use hydraulic throwouts on all my hotrods to great effect.
 

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It is not uncommon for the quill to be damaged enough that some light sanding is required. IIRC it's in the instructions that come with the PDM TSK.

Have them adjust the pedal free play (or lack there of) as they should have before allowing you to pick up your truck. Your engagement depending on the clutch may very well be higher. However, that should have been addressed to some degree by any competent mechanic in the first place.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CCwQFjAB&url=http://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007%20Toyota%20FJ%20Cruiser%20Repair%20Manual/Clutch/Clutch%20Pedal/01800210.pdf&ei=6ySNVZbrGMyMNvqugOAF&usg=AFQjCNGuHKIf94y6yux3d8dtzLh0M-l6LA&sig2=xwGAv01dAx9yW0eedZjGcA&bvm=bv.96782255,d.eXY

My PDM TSK with an OE (Did you mean URD) clutch replacement is Honda light and buttery smooth even after about 50k. The TSK is good stuff.
Thanks Zeus! That looks like exactly what I need. Does yours engage similar to stock. My buddy said that with mine engaging so high, I could be slipping the clutch and not knowing it... therefore loosing power. I would also assume that in this position there could be a good chance that the bearing could always be in contact with the pressure plate... just guessing from an uninformed place but does this make sense to you..?

Thanks again for the helpful responses.

SJ
 

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Re: Throwout Bearing Trouble on 6 speeds (lots of tech and pics contained within)

Went back and got the freeplay adjusted...Thanks Zeus. I think it feels much better now, but will give it a week to be sure I like it...! URD Stage 3 Clutch is buttery smooth and have not even broken in as yet - only 60 kilometers driven on and I can't tell the difference between that and the stock in terms of feel!

Sheldon
 

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I just installed the full TSB lit of parts as well as the PDM TSK kit because my factory clutch and TOB were toasted at 108k miles (not sure if the TOB had been changed before). My clutch is now buttery smooth and my transmission shifts better (I think the old pressure plate was not allowing the system to fully disengage). Since we are on the topic of clutch pedal adjustment I am wondering if my pedal needs any adjusting..?

My clutch pedal seems to engage and disengage fully although it seems like the clutch disk is grabbing very low in the pedal range. As soon as I start to release the pedal I don't think it travels more than .75" to 1" before the truck starts to move forward and then the clutch feels like it's fully engaged at about 2/3 of being released. For those of you with newer clutches is this a lower point of engagement than you are experiencing?
 

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Re: Throwout Bearing Trouble on 6 speeds (lots of tech and pics contained within)

Mine was the opposite - too high. I only had about 1/4" of free play. The mechanic adjusted it at the pedal to give me about 3/4" to 1" of fee play which to me felt a lot closer to stock. I think you can adjust it to where you feel comfortable. It is a matter of preferenct I was told.
 

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Re: Throwout Bearing Trouble on 6 speeds (lots of tech and pics contained within)

Mine was the opposite - too high. I only had about 1/4" of free play. The mechanic adjusted it at the pedal to give me about 3/4" to 1" of fee play which to me felt a lot closer to stock. I think you can adjust it to where you feel comfortable. It is a matter of preferenct I was told.
Thanks. I was more concerned about the setting not allowing the TOB to fully release.
 

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I adjusted my pedal to have 1/2" of free play at top before any resistance is felt.
As long as you have some free pedal at top the TO brg is free to move away from the pressure plate.
 

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The Toyota Service Bulletin ( TSB ) indicates that new/different slave cylinder should replace the old one. What is the difference between the original and the new part?
 

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So here's my story. My name is Dominic and my truck is a chirpaholic, 13k ago I installed the whole URD stage 2 kit, PMD TOB with sleeve, and ARP hardware. Noise is back and I am loosing my mind, after hearing the noise on the first video Gadget thought the quill may have snapped an that I should look in the inspection panel and check for shavings. I just attached another video of the sound it making and where in the petal movement it happens. Any chance that this thing just needs to be greased? And if I need a new bell-housing what the approximate cost of the whole thing, labor parts etc. edit: Updated with inspection video.


http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/transmissions-transfer-cases-traction-aids/476417-urd-stage-ii-clutch-updated.html#post6768897

Started with this
https://vimeo.com/136875381

Now more like this.. the squeal in other video comes and goes.
https://vimeo.com/139606922

So off to the shop to look inside the inspection panel, looking for aluminum shavings from a broken quill, no shavings..
https://vimeo.com/139636018

URD is going to ship out a fresh TOB to see if that fixes it, Gadget is first class all the way! Very helpful.
 

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When you did the URD sleeve and TO bearing did you also do the TSB components (slave cyl and pivot stud?
 

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I have a Toyota x runner 2006 with 150,000 miles hard miles it only caused me one problem that keeps coming back the damn transmission I have tried everything even went through a center force transmission in a week because the throughout bearing was making a high pitch squeeking noise I finally went to a exedy clutch which was fine except hard shifting and grinding in 3rd gear I put 30 Thousand miles since now it is really hard to shift how do I fix this problem anyone know
 

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So it looks like ive made it into the chirping TOB Club now. I purchased my FJ used with 67, xxx miles on it back in July. Now at 73,xxx miles and chirping as described in the 100's of threads here.

I pulled up the service history for it and the PO took it in for the same issue at 31,xxx miles, it looks like they replaced all of the parts on the TSB.

Anyone had any success getting it fixed again outside of warranty at no cost after it was fixed once while under warranty, or am i going to have to start saving my pennies for the whole shebang?
 

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They were in mine 3x. They never did the whole TSB. . So i ended up doing it myself about 30k ago.
I would suggest taking it back to the same dealer who did the TSB, but unless you have extended warranty at 73k i doubt they will accommodate. .
 
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