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Who has had trouble with the Throw-out Bearing on their 6 speed manual transmission ?


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I wonder if URD would supply part numbers so a guy can piece together his own hydro kit?
 

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I started a threat on this but it seems a lot of people are active on this thread so I wanted to share this here as well.

I recently got together with a company called Clutch Masters to come up with a solution for the FJ/Tacoma 6 speed transmissions and addressing their weak points. Clutch Masters specialize in aftermarket and high performance clutches, flywheels, and internal hydraulic slave cylinders (or HSS). I had used their HSS systems in a few other applications with great results and I knew something could be adapted to work with the FJ. I've been running the setup for a couple of weeks now and I have to say I am thrilled with the feel of my clutch system. I've gone into detail on the setup in this thread :

https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/transmissions-transfer-cases-traction-aids/735258-internal-hydraulic-slave-cylinder-upgrade-6-speeds.html

Here is a link to the setup on Clutch Master's website if anyone else is interested in checking it out more.

N16078-H (Tacoma/FJ RA60) - Clutch Masters

Curious what people's thoughts might be on this. I feel that there is a desire for a solution like this and Clutch Masters has delivered!
 

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I started a threat on this but it seems a lot of people are active on this thread so I wanted to share this here as well.

I recently got together with a company called Clutch Masters to come up with a solution for the FJ/Tacoma 6 speed transmissions and addressing their weak points. Clutch Masters specialize in aftermarket and high performance clutches, flywheels, and internal hydraulic slave cylinders (or HSS). I had used their HSS systems in a few other applications with great results and I knew something could be adapted to work with the FJ. I've been running the setup for a couple of weeks now and I have to say I am thrilled with the feel of my clutch system. I've gone into detail on the setup in this thread :

https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/transmissions-transfer-cases-traction-aids/735258-internal-hydraulic-slave-cylinder-upgrade-6-speeds.html

Here is a link to the setup on Clutch Master's website if anyone else is interested in checking it out more.

N16078-H (Tacoma/FJ RA60) - Clutch Masters

Curious what people's thoughts might be on this. I feel that there is a desire for a solution like this and Clutch Masters has delivered!
Will this kit work with the PDM sleeve kit for the bellhousing?
 

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Will this kit work with the PDM sleeve kit for the bellhousing?
This kit was designed to work with the factory snout diameter. It is a very snug fit. Since the only thing this kit utilizes the snout for is to register it around the center of the input shaft, there is no need to use the PDM sleeve kit as there are no moving parts that contact the sleeve so there is no chance of the snout wearing down anymore. A few others on the TacomaWorld forums have installed the kit now that used to have the PDM sleeve and one said it was able to slide off easily while the other had to cut it off. One has installed the kit that used to have the URD internal slave cylinder that forces you to cut the snout off and said it worked well even with the snout cut off.
 

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This kit was designed to work with the factory snout diameter. It is a very snug fit. Since the only thing this kit utilizes the snout for is to register it around the center of the input shaft, there is no need to use the PDM sleeve kit as there are no moving parts that contact the sleeve so there is no chance of the snout wearing down anymore. A few others on the TacomaWorld forums have installed the kit now that used to have the PDM sleeve and one said it was able to slide off easily while the other had to cut it off. One has installed the kit that used to have the URD internal slave cylinder that forces you to cut the snout off and said it worked well even with the snout cut off.
So in addition to this N16078-H kit all I need are the clutch friction and pressure plates, and get the flywheel resurfaced if needed? My clutch is working fine at nearly 100k miles, but I want to be ready for the best possible replacement when the time comes. Thank you for the help and suggestions.
 

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So in addition to this N16078-H kit all I need are the clutch friction and pressure plates, and get the flywheel resurfaced if needed? My clutch is working fine at nearly 100k miles, but I want to be ready for the best possible replacement when the time comes. Thank you for the help and suggestions.
Mine didn't start making any kind of noise until around 130k FYI. I replaced the clutch with a new factory clutch, URD sleeve/ Bearing kit about 20k miles ago. I can definitely still hear it, buts a shhhhhhhhh sound now and not grinding, or sounding like I have a cage of birds in the transmission. I really wish this hydro bearing kit was available a year ago! If it gets any noisier than it is now, I'll be changing to this kit.

On another note, I have always had a problem when its really cold outside with the first couple clutch pushes. The pedal is either super slow to return or almost sticks.. I have a replacement master cylinder at home, but really have no idea whats causing it.
 

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" I have always had a problem when its really cold outside with the first couple clutch pushes. The pedal is either super slow to return or almost sticks.. I have a replacement master cylinder at home, but really have no idea whats causing it."


There was a TSB about it, Toyota offered a larger diameter pipe to replace the original one, to improve the pedal return in cold weather. Mine doesn't have it, and have had the slow return (always only on the first couple on a cold morning, fine otherwise). A friend has it and said it sort of helped, but his still sometimes has a slow return first thing (on a winter morning).

It never bothered me, just something I'd notice on a really cold morning.
Norm
 

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So in addition to this N16078-H kit all I need are the clutch friction and pressure plates, and get the flywheel resurfaced if needed? My clutch is working fine at nearly 100k miles, but I want to be ready for the best possible replacement when the time comes. Thank you for the help and suggestions.
Correct. At that point you'll definitely want to install a new clutch (comes with a new pressure plate) and you definitely want to get the flywheel resurfaced. You will also need new flywheel bolts. It seems to be super hit or miss with no real explanation as to why. Some have well over 100k miles with no sign of noise or issues, others have only made it 60k before running into troubles.

Mine didn't start making any kind of noise until around 130k FYI. I replaced the clutch with a new factory clutch, URD sleeve/ Bearing kit about 20k miles ago. I can definitely still hear it, buts a shhhhhhhhh sound now and not grinding, or sounding like I have a cage of birds in the transmission. I really wish this hydro bearing kit was available a year ago! If it gets any noisier than it is now, I'll be changing to this kit.

On another note, I have always had a problem when its really cold outside with the first couple clutch pushes. The pedal is either super slow to return or almost sticks.. I have a replacement master cylinder at home, but really have no idea whats causing it.
I know! I dealt with a squeaking throwout bearing for far too long. It wasn't until I got super serious about fixing it that I started doing a bunch of research and realized what else can fail with the transmission without any sign of the throwout bearing making noise. I couldn't find a solution that I thought was THE solution so I got together with Clutch Masters and we came up with what seems so far to be a very good solution (1200 miles so far and zero issues and quite as can be).

Hmm that's funny you mention the slow/sticky pedal when it's cold. I now remember also having that issue when it was very cold out. We've had some very cold mornings here in Montana that have got down to the low 20s and the pedal has no difference in the way it feels vs. when its warm out w/ the Clutch Masters kit installed.
 

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Mine didn't start making any kind of noise until around 130k FYI. I replaced the clutch with a new factory clutch, URD sleeve/ Bearing kit about 20k miles ago. I can definitely still hear it, buts a shhhhhhhhh sound now and not grinding, or sounding like I have a cage of birds in the transmission. I really wish this hydro bearing kit was available a year ago! If it gets any noisier than it is now, I'll be changing to this kit.

On another note, I have always had a problem when its really cold outside with the first couple clutch pushes. The pedal is either super slow to return or almost sticks.. I have a replacement master cylinder at home, but really have no idea whats causing it.
I have the same issue for the first few pedal pushes in very cold weather, but it has never been bothersome to me. I think the solution by @406cruiser is better. I am going to print out the installation instructions and show them to my trusted workshop to be sure they can go a good job with it.
 

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I replaced my clutch two months ago, quill had several fairly deep gouges in it. I saw this kit from AMS Auto on Rock Auto https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8490920&cc=1433267 not sure if its been mentioned on here yet. I went it with it because it was cheaper then the URD option. Install went smoothly, clutch feels exactly the same as OEM with engagement slightly higher up. Its been on for 2 months with the Toyota TSB Parts with zero issues and not more friggin squeak so far. Just another option for anyone with this problem to check out!
 

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I replaced my clutch two months ago, quill had several fairly deep gouges in it. I saw this kit from AMS Auto on Rock Auto https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8490920&cc=1433267 not sure if its been mentioned on here yet. I went it with it because it was cheaper then the URD option. Install went smoothly, clutch feels exactly the same as OEM with engagement slightly higher up. Its been on for 2 months with the Toyota TSB Parts with zero issues and not more friggin squeak so far. Just another option for anyone with this problem to check out!
You mentioned the quill had several fairly deep gouges in it. This is exactly what the Clutch Masters kit is trying to prevent (and will prevent) from happening. With the clutch kit you sent a link to and the Toyota TSB throwout bearing replacement parts, you are still moving the throwout bearing up and down a piece of aluminum. Hopefully the squeak doesn't come back too soon but being that it's a bearing rotating at thousands of RPMs with no way of re-greasing it, it will eventually wear out and start squeaking again. This is inevitable and even the Clutch Masters kit won't solve that entirely. However, hopefully with the design of the Clutch Masters kit and the fact that it doesn't preload the throwout bearing against the clutch diaphragm like the OE setup does it has the potential to last much longer. The big thing Clutch Masters set out to solve with their kit was the potential of catastrophic failure that has been documented many times where the quill or pivot ball just shear off entirely. As these 6-speed transmissions continue to age and get more miles put on them, that will probably be something that we start seeing happen even more frequently. If someone is in the process of replacing the clutch then the Clutch Masters internal slave cylinder kit is the way to go in my opinion since there is zero chance of absolute catastrophic failure with that part since it is only using the quill to center itself around the input shaft, nothing is actually moving up and down the quill.
 

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Oh you're totally right about that clutch master kit being a better option cant argue that. Why i linked that AMS is kit is just for the cost if anyone wants to run with the steel collar over the quill option as i got the whole clutch, throw out, and sleeve for $320 Canadian which is like $260 in real money.
 

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I recently did the urd sleeve and cluch replacement and it’s far worse then it ever was. I just posted about it. Now I get a crazy squealing/whirling sound as the clutch petal is in movement. I’m so frustrated at this point it’s the first time I’ve actually considered selling. I have no idea what to do and urd isn’t being very helpful
 

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@ Boon0052. I went the URD route as well and eliminated the squeek (for a month or two...) After that, for about 1K miles, I noticed a strange "grinding sound"/vibration when decelerating in 2nd gear (around 2000-2500 RPM); tracked it back to clutch pedal position. Dave (I think) at URD was very interested in hearing about it. Without an "autopsy", he couldn't definitively say what was happening. I now have about 8K on the clutch; it still squeeks but it works "normally...

Since I know the next time I pull the transmission to correct the bearing mess, I'm going to have to rebuild it to fix some of the planetaries (grinds in 3rd when cold, mostly), I'm just going to drive it. With the stereo up, can't hear the squeek...

Next time we do a group buy from Clutch Masters, I'm in!!
 

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Typed up a whole story and the forum lost it.
Short version: Had similar problems to all of you at 90k miles. Toyota offered a great deal on a straight transmission swap for a new one. Drove well afterwards, though notchy shifting. 100k miles and I'm getting the problem again. I'm thinking the clutch needs inspection. Taking the FJ in to be assessed. I have a 1 year parts and work warranty.
 

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I don't know that much about the mechanics, but is there a way to bypass using OEM parts or patching over OEM parts with the kits you guys have tried?

When it comes to performance mods, it seems there's always a better way. Exhaust is restrictive? Replace it with aftermarket. Suspension is mushy and low? Get coilovers. Seems like there may be a better option that may be more expensive up front, but would be better than patching and waiting for our transmissions to implode.
 

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cooodyt, see 406Cruiser's post #568 above, for what Clutchmasters has developed, which does not apply load to the spindle at all, I think that is the answer to your question
 

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Yeah it’s driving me crazy, the urd sleeve. The aluminum at least was faint, but the steel one steel is like that pitch that just gets in your head. The problem now is to remove it guy says he’d likely have to cut it off which might damage the quill. Murphy law, wait two years to see if urd will re release the hydro, nope, then a month after I get the job done cluch master does. Smh
 

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My clutch isn't squeaking anymore - it's screaming - just different pitches based on pedal position, and now theres a nasty grinding sound - I'm pretty sure the bearing race is totally shot...
I have taken it off the road until I can get someone to open it up and have a look hopefully tomorrow. My main concern is the state of the quill, and a likelihood of a return to the problem.
I was initially dismissive of the ClutchMasters kit being unproven, but considering that it's cheaper than a new bell housing etc, then I don't really see it as a risk now...
Major concern right now is the cost of shipping and customs (as well as delivery time to Dubai)...
 
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