[joshlecher44]

2012 MT. Looking to replace my clutch as previous owner had worn it out by 115,000 miles. I have no throw out bearing noise, but the clutch is weak and slipping. Looking for recommendations on clutches/pressure pate kits, and throw out bearings. URD is out of their stage 2 clutches, wondering if anyone has opinions on Spec stage 1 or 2. I am using the vehicle almost exclusively on road, However, I don't mind a heavier clutch. I'd like to have my flywheel resurfaced unless ya'll recommend going new. Any links to good threads on this would be appreciated. Any links to Throw out bearing kits that are best would be appreciated. Any advice at all on choosing parts appreciated. Thanks.

 

[norm356]

OEM works well, and avoids the possible downsides of heavier pedal effort (and no need if running stock engine output) or risks of quality issues.

IIRC, Toyota recommends replacing a flywheel rather than resurfacing. 115k is pretty short life, but maybe the DPO rode the clutch or something. I wouldn't be surprised if you get way more than that on the new parts.

Last time I replaced a clutch on a Toyota (a V6 Camry, after 200k miles, it was still good but had the engine out for other things), I bought a new flywheel to avoid any risk of redo later.

 

[joshlecher44]

Best to replace throw-out bearing with Toyota OEM? read lots on issues with those, don't know if they are hit or miss parts. Heard URD throw-out bearing isnt the one and some kind of sleeve kit was?
Still curious about aftermarket clutches if anyone thinks spec stage 1 are better for road driving than OEM? like I said I dont mind a heavy clutch. but I have no plans to do any engine work. Previously it was a Canadian forestry service vehicle, possibly lot of different inexperienced MT drivers using it, and the last 35,000 miles were my father and stepmother, one or both of which probably rode the clutch a lot haha.

 

[Sparky of NWO]

I used all stock except for a heavy flywheel. I have since regeared and would have to rethink it next time. I differently would go stock on a street ride.

 

[FJC-MAN]

I don’t think there is anything wrong with OEM parts. My FJ (w/243,000) is getting the clutch replaced with OEM parts this month because I find the whistle from the throwout bearing has gotten annoying. It’s original and has lasted this long, what’s to complain about? Maybe I’m not as hard on the clutch as others?

 

[joshlecher44]

I appreciate the replies, anyone think I should resurface flywheel? or just buy once cry once, and go brand new? I will likely go OEM for the clutch pressure plate and bearing as u guys advized, thanks. New to the FJ's, I remember designing them with my dad on Toyotas website when I was 8 years old in '07, happy to have the real thing 15 years later.

 

[Farmer Brown]

I don’t think there is anything wrong with OEM parts. My FJ (w/243,000) is getting the clutch replaced with OEM parts this month because I find the whistle from the throwout bearing has gotten annoying. It’s original and has lasted this long, what’s to complain about? Maybe I’m not as hard on the clutch as others?

Wow.

Mine died at around 30,000 miles.

The one replaced through the TSB has seen me through 80,000 miles, thus far.

 

[mikey]

I appreciate the replies, anyone think I should resurface flywheel? or just buy once cry once, and go brand new? I will likely go OEM for the clutch pressure plate and bearing as u guys advized, thanks. New to the FJ's, I remember designing them with my dad on Toyotas website when I was 8 years old in '07, happy to have the real thing 15 years later.

Buy once cry once.

Resurfacing is an art and not everyone is good at it.

 

[norm356]

Regarding my post #2 above, I just did some research. I could have sworn I'd read someplace that Toyota flywheels should not be resurfaced, always replaced, but cannot find that anywhere. What I found were tons and tons of threads, on various Toyota forums, in which it is clearly stated to have a flywheel resurfaced while the clutch is out if there is any sign of bluing or uneven surface. If the surface looks 'like new', then go after it with a scotch bright pad to remove any minor glazing, and then clean the surface until it is totally clean.

Resurfacing a flywheel costs something like $40 ~ 80 by a good machine shop, so that sounds like pretty reasonable insurance.

A new flywheel from Toyota is $350~400, so going to that, if the machine shop says they can resurface the old one, is perhaps only for those who are in for the "lifetime" award. Rock Auto sells off brand flywheels for $90~200 ("...you takes your chances").

Note that some Toyota flywheels have a step which must be maintained when being resurfaced (not sure if that applies to the FJ though). A good machine shop should know how to deal with that if it is the case.

When fitting a flywheel, whether resurfaced or new, clean the surface until the rag comes back totally clean.

 

[Med68W]

I replaced the clutch in my FJ last month at 160,000 miles. After getting quotes from about 10 shops I went with stock Aisin parts and paid $1,500. All stock parts and flywheel resurfaced. To get the stage 2 parts or aftermarket parts the quotes were $2,500-3,500. I’m glad I went with stock in the end for my uses.

 

[FJC-MAN]

Regarding my post #2 above, I just did some research. I could have sworn I'd read someplace that Toyota Clutches should not be resurfaced, always replaced, but cannot find that anywhere. What I found were tons and tons of threads, on various Toyota forums, in which it is clearly stated to have a flywheel resurfaced while the clutch is out if there is any sign of bluing or uneven surface. If the surface looks 'like new', then go after it with a scotch bright pad to remove any minor glazing, and then clean the surface until it is totally clean.

Resurfacing a flywheel costs something like $40 ~ 80 by a good machine shop, so that sounds like pretty reasonable insurance.

A new flywheel from Toyota is $350~400, so going to that, if the machine shop says they can resurface the old one, is perhaps only for those who are in for the "lifetime" award. Rock Auto sells off brand flywheels for $90~200 ("...you takes your chances").

Note that some Toyota flywheels have a step which must be maintained when being resurfaced (not sure if that applies to the FJ though). A good machine shop should know how to deal with that if it is the case.

When fitting a flywheel, whether resurfaced or new, clean the surface until the rag comes back totally clean.

If you want a oem flywheel, partsouq.com has the best price at 233.78 + shipping.

 

[joshlecher44]

Thanks y'all, I'll buy OEM and probably let a good transmission shop make the call if my flywheel is worth being resurfaced once its out and inspected.

 

[not_sosharp]

I don’t think there is anything wrong with OEM parts. My FJ (w/243,000) is getting the clutch replaced with OEM parts this month because I find the whistle from the throwout bearing has gotten annoying. It’s original and has lasted this long, what’s to complain about? Maybe I’m not as hard on the clutch as others?

Do you think a replacement will stop the chirping? and for how long? I assume youre doing the bearing, ball and fork along withe the clutch parts

 

[FJC-MAN]

Yes it is the throwout bearing making the noise. Replacing pressure plate, clutch disc, ball pivot, fork, o-ring (between tranny and transfercase), gaskets + bolts for exhaust, front driveshaft u-joints, (rear are done), and gear oil.

 

[Tacoman99]

My 2013 needed replacing at 130,000 miles. I was disappointed. I have always driven manuals. I have put well over 200,000miles on clutches and they were just fine. It cost $1800. The clutch was never very smooth to engage. When it was under warranty the Toyota mechanics said it was ok, "....they all feel like that". I believe the throw out bearing was hanging up and letting the clutch slip. The clutch disk was definitely worn beyond limits. They replaced the disk with an asin part. They replaced the throw out bearing with what ever their wholesaler had in stock. The flywheel was resurfaced, at least they charged me for it. The shop did lousy work. Missing bolts and hangers from the exhaust system. Your first order of business is to find a better shop than the one that did mine.

 

[Alpine_FJ]

I replaced the clutch in mine at around 200,000. I now have 308,000 miles with no issues. I replaced it because I was getting noise from the throw-out bearing. I installed the URD quill sleeve and bearing along with Aisin clutch parts (flywheel, disc, & pressure plate). I also replaced the slave cylinder. After I got it out I found that the some of the bushings at the top of the shift lever were shot, so I replaced those too. I did all the work myself for probably around $500. It was a bit of work, but I bought a transmision jack which made the job possible for one man in a home garage. There's a good bit of room around the trasmision bell compared to a lot of smaller vehicles so getting all the bolts out was not too much trouble with some "long" socket extensions. I've pulled some MT's before that were a real problem to get out. However, those were on sports cars.

 

[Snowshoe]

I have 249K miles on my '07 and was thinking it might be time to replace the clutch. Took it to my mechanic and he said "no way it needs replacing" I learned 2 things - I have a very honest mechanic and I'm easier than most people on a clutch. The latter probably due to the fact that I have always owned a MT vehicle in the 58 years I've been a licensed driver. Yeah - I'm old. But I love my FJ - it's my daily driver and also gets me up some rough roads to satisfy my mountain climbing addiction. My skid plates aren't exactly virgin...

 

[ShakyPuddin]

I don’t think there is anything wrong with OEM parts. My FJ (w/243,000) is getting the clutch replaced with OEM parts this month because I find the whistle from the throwout bearing has gotten annoying. It’s original and has lasted this long, what’s to complain about? Maybe I’m not as hard on the clutch as others?

I'm at 195k on the factory clutch and have been extremely hard on it.