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Just tried to crank up my ToyTec front coilovers and couldn't get them to budge at all. The first problem is that there's not very much room to work with...tried dropping the sway bar to no avail. Second, they just aren't moving. Contemplating compressing the springs a bit to relieve some tension, but thought someone on here might have an easier way they've found?
 

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I am assuming that you have the tire off and no load on the shock. Correct? If it's not budging at all you can get a large strap wrench and turn the whole spring, that may free it up. Good luck! :cheers:
 

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WD-40????
Jax':wave:
 

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I'm sure you are already removing the tire. When I adjusted mine I put on both spanners and got the bottom on to rest against something so it wouldn't move when I put force on it. Then take the handle from your hi-lift and put in on the upper spanner. Use the hi-lift handle as a cheater bar and you should be able to get them to move.
 

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Second everything else....vehicle on jack stands with tire removed. The ICON's have a set screw. I would think the Toytecs would also or at worse, you could have a lop sided truck from it loosening on one side over time. It was a small allen screw for mine.

Good luck!
 

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My tip from having installed these and watched 2 fellow members try to adjust them, good luck! haha.

If i was buying, just from having installed these and seeing how difficult it is to adjust them, i'd go with something else like the ICONs or Radflos for ease of adjustability.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks everyone. I removed the tire, had it on jack stands, and let everything droop. Didn't see anything in the directions from ToyTec about a set screw, but I'll take a look next time I'm under there.

For now, I'm just going to leave them where they're at since most of the rubbing issues seem to have been resolved with the alignment and it looks level right now.

My tip from having installed these and watched 2 fellow members try to adjust them, good luck! haha.

If i was buying, just from having installed these and seeing how difficult it is to adjust them, i'd go with something else like the ICONs or Radflos for ease of adjustability.
Unless something goes horribly wrong with my current suspension, I'm not going to buy a new one until after the solid axle conversion. :cheers:
 

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There isn't a set screw.

PB Blaster helps a lot.
You need to somehow get the spanner on the lower section wedged up against something, the frame, the spindle, something to prevent it from rotating.
Then place the other spanner on the adjusting collar and use a cheater pipe. The Hi-Lift handle works well as mentioned above.

Even with this method, they are quite difficult to adjust.
 

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You can also undo upper ball joint or uniball and move the uca out of the way. Becarefully because it's under a load and spindle may spring back at you if weight is not totally unloaded.. Car on jackstands and wheel off the ground.. Helps to place a jack under spindle so it doesn't drop.

Spray some lube on colar let it soak and make sure set screw is backed up or you can ruin threads on shock.
 

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You can also undo upper ball joint or uniball and move the uca out of the way. Becarefully because it's under a load and spindle may spring back at you if weight is not totally unloaded.. Car on jackstands and wheel off the ground.. Helps to place a jack under spindle so it doesn't drop.
Make sure to keep that castle nut on until you get the tapered portion of the ball joint to pop out. This way when it breaks loose, everything stays in place and you can slowly let the UCA out of the spindle and zip tie the spindle outta the way.

I found out the hard way to not remove that castle nut and had the spindle hit me right in the crotch. :cowfrown:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There isn't a set screw.

PB Blaster helps a lot.
You need to somehow get the spanner on the lower section wedged up against something, the frame, the spindle, something to prevent it from rotating.
Then place the other spanner on the adjusting collar and use a cheater pipe. The Hi-Lift handle works well as mentioned above.

Even with this method, they are quite difficult to adjust.
Thanks. I *didn't* have a spanner on the lower section, so maybe that was some of my problem. I also didn't use a cheater bar, so will in the future.

I separated the UCA and spindle when I installed the suspension, so I'm familiar with that part. :)
 

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I found out the hard way to not remove that castle nut and had the spindle hit me right in the crotch. :cowfrown:
Ouch! I always try to stand clear while removing spring loaded or heavy objects.. Oh and I always leave the nut on until I break it all loose.

X's 2 on cheater bar!
 

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ahhh, this is cake!
Hi Jess, I`ve done this a few times with our Toytec ultimate lift...
you def need both spanners, and you need to hold the body of the coil-over steady as to not put any pressure on the lower mount bushing.

The smaller shock body spanner has a 3/8 square hole to insert a breaker bar, depending on which side I work on, I`ll flip the breaker so it helps hold up the spanner in position, easy...

the larger spanner for the rotating collar, I took a large wooden dowel about 1 1/2 diam. x 2ft L and used 2 hose clamps and attached it to the spanner wrench to act as a extended length cheater bar, you could use a pipe, broom stick etc etc to give yourself leverage...

SOAK the living crap out of the spring seat, shim area`s, and under the top of the spring, this will lube the spring up good to rotate, also spraying the threads of the collar.
I used CRC or WD40 or any good spray lube, just don`t use spray white grease.
I also place a rag under the shock body, around the mount, on the lower control arm so it doesn`t make a mess on the shop floor or driveway...

this of course is done with the wheel off, sway bar disconnected on both sides and swung up out of the way and tied off. now you have sufficient room to rotate the adjusting collars...

Good Luck, once lubed up very well, they will turn like butta!:lol:
 
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