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This might be a dumb thing but i just went to rotate my tires and absolutely could not get my front drivers side wheel off. I know that the rear wheels are sometimes hard to get off, but not the fronts. Any hints on how to jar them loose?
:flame::rocker:
 

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I just rotated mine today too. Man was it a B!TCH!!! All 4 were stuck to rotors. The fronts were definately worse than the back. The front passenger for me was the worst of them all. And according to the records it's only been 8k miles!
My two tips:
1) If you look through the wheel, you'll see 6 little spaces between the wheel and the rotor, they're about half an inch wide and spaced evenly around the wheel. Use some penetrating spray with the little straw thingy and put a squirt or two in each.(Put a rag inside the wheel to catch anything that runs out)
2) Use a block of 2x4 and a sledge hammer to pound on the wheel from the back side. Just keep rotating and hitting until it pops off. When you get discouraged, take a break for a few minutes them try again. Mine finally broke free after my second break.

Then when I put them back on, I used anti-sieze not just on the threads but also on the surface of the rotor where the wheel touches and around the circular collar in the middle that touches the inside edge of the wheel.

Good Luck!
 

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The dealership guys do it "gently" by smacking the bejesus out of the inside of the tire with a sledge hammer. You know, safe and good for the sidewall at the same time.
 

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I've had this problem on other vehicles and I've found that taking a wire brush to the mating surfaces and applying a thin coat of anti-seize solves the problem.

DEWFPO
 

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A little anti-sieze goes a long way on the mating surface of the back of the wheel to the hub, but I've never used it on a lug nut and studs. It can affect your torque readings when you use a torque wrench on the lugs.
 

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A little anti-sieze goes a long way on the mating surface of the back of the wheel to the hub, but I've never used it on a lug nut and studs. It can affect your torque readings when you use a torque wrench on the lugs.
I've used it on both the wheel/hub surfaces and the lug nuts. Again, I am just talking about a very thin coat. Yes it will affect your torques settings since the lug is now 'lubed', but the good news is my wheels always come off easily and one had never loosened up or fallen off.:)

DEWFPO
 

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My old 4runner used to do this even with anti seize there is an easy way to get them off.:thinkerg: Loosen all of your lug nuts then tighten them up finger tight. Lower your truck back to the ground turn the wheel to full lock in both directions. Jack your truck back up take the lug nuts off, and the wheel will come right off.:cheers:
 

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This might be a dumb thing but i just went to rotate my tires and absolutely could not get my front drivers side wheel off. I know that the rear wheels are sometimes hard to get off, but not the fronts. Any hints on how to jar them loose?
:flame::rocker:
Not sure why the FJ wheels stick, but they do.

When I bought my Hankooks last year, the crew at America's tire had to repeatedly hit the original right front tire with a heavy club (think baseball bat) to get it loose after the lugs were removed. Glad I didn't have to do that myself in order to replace a flat while on the road. I bought my FJ w/19k miles on it and the wheels had never been removed (as far as I know) before I bought these tires (about 3 years and 30k miles after it was first sold). So, regular periodic rotation should alleviate the problem, which reminds me -- I need to rotate my Hankooks now! ;)
 
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