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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am needing to replace my torque converter and rear main seal. It'll cost about $1500. For $1600 more I could get a new transmission put in at the same time. Thoughts? Guy at Toyota dealership said he's only ever seen one A750F transmission replaced in a Tundra, but that the TC is a more frequent issue. I'd rather not spend the money right now, but it's a pretty decent deal for a transmission since I'm already paying for the labor.

There's 134k miles on it currently, no other problems. 2009 model.
 

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who's the rip off artist? I'd get a few more estimates on the converter and seal replacements. If you find a fairer price, I would consider installing the TransGo shift kit as well. If the cost does come near the price of the rebuilt transmission, then I would go with the rebuild, but ask if you can have the kit installed for the adder of the kit cost? You could also consider installing a cooler while your at it! GL
 

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Oops, forgot to mention this: If you truly do have a rear main seal leak, how are they going to determine if it is the seal or a worn groove in the crank or both? They may not be able to polish out the groove in the crank, if one exists, so they will need to consider a "speedy sleeve" to fix that! I would ask them to make certain they know the true root cause failure before re-assembly. Why does it need a torque converter? Are they going to test it before replacing it, there are several tests that can be run before and after removal to validate a failure mode? GL
 

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Discussion Starter #4
who's the rip off artist? I'd get a few more estimates on the converter and seal replacements. If you find a fairer price, I would consider installing the TransGo shift kit as well. If the cost does come near the price of the rebuilt transmission, then I would go with the rebuild, but ask if you can have the kit installed for the adder of the kit cost? You could also consider installing a cooler while your at it! GL
I'm sorry to be ignorant, but what's the TransGo shift kit for? Unfortunately, I live in a small town in Alabama, so my trusted options (lots of emphasis on TRUSTED) are limited to the dealership or a local shop with which I have done a lot of work, which is who the quote listed is from.

So are you saying to do torque converter + TransGo shift kit? Or if the price of those combined is the same as a rebuild, go with the rebuild?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oops, forgot to mention this: If you truly do have a rear main seal leak, how are they going to determine if it is the seal or a worn groove in the crank or both? They may not be able to polish out the groove in the crank, if one exists, so they will need to consider a "speedy sleeve" to fix that! I would ask them to make certain they know the true root cause failure before re-assembly. Why does it need a torque converter? Are they going to test it before replacing it, there are several tests that can be run before and after removal to validate a failure mode? GL
Toyota diagnosed the torque converter problem for me and suggested to save on labor costs later down the road to go ahead and do the rear main seal, which is NOT currently leaking. I am having a shudder at 20-40mph when the engine is around 1000rpm, basically when I'm going that speed but casually, not stepping on the gas.
 

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OK, here I go again, a rebuilt torque converter with core charge is only $205 from RockAuto. The converter seal is $8.00 and the speedi-sleeve or redi-sleeve which includes both the steel repair sleeve and seal are $19, fluid will cost you $54, an oil & filter change will be $70 with labor. How is it possible that the R&R labor cost is $1144?
 

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OK, here I go again, a rebuilt torque converter with core charge is only $205 from RockAuto. The converter seal is $8.00 and the speedi-sleeve or redi-sleeve which includes both the steel repair sleeve and seal are $19, fluid will cost you $54, an oil & filter change will be $70 with labor. How is it possible that the R&R labor cost is $1144?
Thank you for the breakdown and for the input!! This is EXACTLY why I posted. Seriously, thank you. I'll call the shop tomorrow to see what they might charge for only labor if I bring all the goods. Will report back.

As for the TransGo kit, what about that? I'm very interested in upgrading, especially if it's already a part I need to replace.
 

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I'm sorry to be ignorant, but what's the TransGo shift kit for? Unfortunately, I live in a small town in Alabama, so my trusted options (lots of emphasis on TRUSTED) are limited to the dealership or a local shop with which I have done a lot of work, which is who the quote listed is from.

So are you saying to do torque converter + TransGo shift kit? Or if the price of those combined is the same as a rebuild, go with the rebuild?
No problem, I made an assumption I should not have: to fix some of the small irritating issues with the 750E and 750F transmissions, which comprise shift point occurrences, crispness of shifts, converter lock up timing, converter unlock and lock crispness, TransGo has made a shift kit which contains replacement valves and springs for the electronically actuated hydraulic control valves of the transmission and possibly the main pump. This kit is very straight forward for an experienced transmission repair technician to replace. the Kit Number is SK A750 WTA and costs $159. GL
 

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Hold on ... the auto trans "shudder" is a well known occurrence and the first response should be a full transmission fluid exchange. Lots of info on this forum about how to do the exchange.

I had the shudder in my 2007. About $150 for the 16 quarts of fluid and a few tools and I've been shudder-free for 20K miles so far.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No problem, I made an assumption I should not have: to fix some of the small irritating issues with the 750E and 750F transmissions, which comprise shift point occurrences, crispness of shifts, converter lock up timing, converter unlock and lock crispness, TransGo has made a shift kit which contains replacement valves and springs for the electronically actuated hydraulic control valves of the transmission and possibly the main pump. This kit is very straight forward for an experienced transmission repair technician to replace. the Kit Number is SK A750 WTA and costs $159. GL
Good to know! I will definitely keep that in mind. I have noticed the shifting but wasn't sure if that was normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hold on ... the auto trans "shudder" is a well known occurrence and the first response should be a full transmission fluid exchange. Lots of info on this forum about how to do the exchange.

I had the shudder in my 2007. About $150 for the 16 quarts of fluid and a few tools and I've been shudder-free for 20K miles so far.

Joe
Oh awesome, that sounds like a good idea. I'll try that first! I'll let you know if it helps the issue I have.
 

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Save big $$ and do/get a 12-16 qt fluid exchange. LARGE % of problems you describe
are taken care of by this method. Worked for me.:)
 

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Toyota diagnosed the torque converter problem for me and suggested to save on labor costs later down the road to go ahead and do the rear main seal, which is NOT currently leaking. I am having a shudder at 20-40mph when the engine is around 1000rpm, basically when I'm going that speed but casually, not stepping on the gas.
I am skeptical: A bad lock-up torque converter could fail in several ways:

1. The converter (not the lock-up clutch portion) fails to transmit energy into the transmission gearing because the parts (turbines blades) slip past each other. This can be tested by applying the parking brake, placing the car in L1 and depressing the throttle. If the engine dies when the RPM is say 1500 (there is a threshold range specification), the torque converter itself is OK, because the turbines are transmitting the energy without slipping by one another in the fluid bath.
2. The clutch lock-up only occurs in "D" so 5th gear and the rolling speed must be at least 30 or 35 MPH (there is a spec for this as well) on flat ground. The clutch operation should be smooth and relatively quick (probably like 1.5 seconds).
3. You said the "shudder" occurs at 20-40, which would be coincidental with when the converter clutch would lock while accelerating under normal driving conditions. So test it by putting your foot in the throttle from a stop and see where the shudder now occurs, If it occurs at a much higher final leveling speed, then that would indicate the Shudder follows the torque converter clutch locking action. To verify, test the hydraulic pressure during the normal and hard acceleration modes and if within spec, then the most likely root cause is in the torque converter. But if the "shudder" still occurs at 20-40, then something else is most likely the root cause.
4. There are several tests that can be preformed when the converter is removed to verify converter and converter clutch failure, but for $205, it's simple insurance.

This problem has been brought up many times in this forum and someone may actually know what the true root cause is. But I would also suggest calling TransGo and explaining your symptom and see what they have to say?

GL
 

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Oh awesome, that sounds like a good idea. I'll try that first! I'll let you know if it helps the issue I have.
It looks like several members agree on a simple root cause to the problem and the fix!
 
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