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Discussion Starter #1
So I took my 07 Fj in to the dealership because I got a dreaded CEL and they diagnoised it as the charcoal canister had failed and vacuum pump unable to hold vacuum. They told me the cost to replace is $800!!!!

I'm contemplating on not replacing it due to cost and b/c I'm out in Canada where we don't have any emission law/testing to register our vehicles.

Looking for some advice. If I don't replace it, will affect my engine performance or damage the vehicle further in the long run? Should I just suck it up and replace it to prevent more expensive repairs later on?

Any input or advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks everyone.

Dave
 

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I realize your in Canada and I don't know what the emissions laws are there, but it may be covered by the factory emissions warranty, depending on mileage.

Typically vacuum leaks in the EVAP systems are due to leaks in hoses, at hose connections or malfunctioning valves, not the canister itself.

It seems to me that if the canister was able to hold vacuum until now, and unless you damaged it off-road, it should be fine. They are made of plastic and don't rot like rubber hoses or malfunction like valves.

If the canister actually has a leak and you can locate it, you should be able to seal it with automotive grade silicon.

DEWFPO
 

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No unfortunately the emission warranty is over. Vehicle has 128,000 kms on it. The hoses were checked and are all good. These are the codes that came up p043e, po43f, p2401, p2402, p2419. Under the Toyota bulletin, these codes mean the canister needs to be replaced.

I just want to know if there is a concern not replacing a faulty canister. Can I even just remove it completely.
 

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I'm posting from my iPhone so I can't include links, but I think a new canister would cost around $300 new or less at a junkyard. Considering the placement, it looks lime it would be a straightforward installation. I was recently speaking to a friend about these, and his idea was topping off causes failure over time. Overfilling while cool allows the gasoline to expand as it heats, with nowhere but the canister to go.
 

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If the problem actually is the canister, then leaving it alone or removing it likely won't make much difference. You will still have the codes and the dash lights. Your engine performance won't be noticeably affected. Your best shot is to pick up a used one at a scrap yard if you can or from someone on ebay or craig's list that is parting one out.

DEWFPO
 

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it'll be fairly stinky too... a smell of rotten eggs is what I got from mine when the canisters went bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well if I leave it alone, I could
just keep clearing the cel codes with my scanner but it'll be a pain in the ass which is why I was thinking if I remove it, maybe the codes
wont reappear. Anyone have any experience with removing the canister? an how it affects the cel?

I also got another quote today from an independent repair shop and they were quoting me $1000!! Wtf! More than the stealership. They say the part alone is like $900. For a stupid plastic box with charcoal in it! Toyota should be ashamed of themselves.
Obviously buying these new is not an option. Illl check
the junkyard.

Thanks for all the inputs everyone.
 

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All of ours in Tucson have been leaking disgusting fumes for years now in the summer heat. You can see the fumes rising from the gas cap area in the sun. So nasty..in tube doors its really foul. I haven't had any codes pop up yet not sure whats up with that. I can't believe how much that part is..I better start looking for junk yards
 

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You can't remove the canisters completely without getting error codes. The FJ does continuous tests on the vehicle.. pressurized tests and what not and you're going to throw it for a loop with the part actually missing. Unfortunately it's not one of those out of sight out of system sort of fixes.
 

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You can isolate the problem by clamping off the evaporative hosses at the canister. Typically there are 2 for vacuum control, 2 for vapor inlet and 1 for purge. there could be as few as 3 depending on the electronics. In either case you can determine if its really the canister, an upstream/downstream system, valve, connection or a hose. You should be able to get the evaorative emissions routing from toyota (should actually be on the vehicle somewhere, I thought that was made law?).

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I can get the part new for $600 and save myself some $$ if I install it myself. Does anyone know if this is hard to install?
 

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I was wheeling recently and came across the dreaded check engine light and TRAC light as well.

Thing is, I have a 2011 with 7600 miles on it. I was on a pretty tough trail (Spring Creek for those of you who have done that out here in CO) and had to actually pop my hood and take off the negative terminal to my battery a few times to reset the codes so I could get ATRAC to work! (it will not work with these codes/lights on the dash) Some spots were too tough with just my rear locker. Hahaha, the Jeep guys were like wtf?

So I finally took my truck to the local stealership and sure enough, there is a crack on the end of the charcoal canister--the plastic itself is broken, the bracket that connects it is hanging off, and the canister needs to be replaced.

They tell me $1300 parts and labor. :flame:

I asked the mechanic what he thought would cause this crack in the canister (there is no evidence of a rock strike, or scrapes, etc. anywhere near this charcoal canister)--in his professional opinion--and guess what he says? "I think it happens with all the torque-ing and twisting of the vehicle off roading."

Interesting, I said... If that's true, and I'm using the vehicle for its designed purpose, would not this be a warranty issue? I'm sure it won't be covered, but still thought that was an interesting comment from a guy who turns wrenches on Toyotas and FJ's all day.

Now, I don't think that the mechanics postulation is a possible cause, personally, but does anyone think I can use his stated opinion to help bolster a warranty claim on this?

I'm waiting for the Toyota corporate person to drop by the dealership to decide my fate; not sure how much I should try for warranty coverage...or whether I should just :mecry::mecry::mecry: and fork over the $$$ What do you think?
 

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I too don't believe the mechanic's postulation but I would use it in your defense to try to get it covered under warranty through Toyota. If they don't cover it I would go get a tube of black silicone and seal it up, or... go to a pick-n-pull and get one off a wreck. $1300 is absolutely ridiculous for a charcoal canister. Do not pay that. Worst case, go to one of our supporting vendors that sells OE parts and get a quote from them on the canister itself, you don't need all the associated paraphenalia.

DEWFPO
 

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can somebody post a picture of this "carbon canister" thing? where is it located?

the only thing I saw in the intake was carbon net, which I cut away as soon as I saw it
 

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I had my canister go bad (something cracked it along the seals). They smoke tested it to find out.

Had it replaced under extended warranty. Didn't notice anything except the codes. No smell. Nada!

Paperwork showed over $1k for parts and labor.
 
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