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Do you think the pervasive nature of this shudder/vibration problem among FJ owners has gotten
Toyota's attention? I was shocked when I spoke to my dealership's service rep to explain the problem, and he replied, "So what do you want me to do?"

After reading these posts, I will have full transmission fluid exchange done, then consider torque converter replacement.
 

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Just to reinforce what one contributor said in an excellent post, by the way. Misfires of the engine can feel just like transmission problems. Shuddering under acceleration was fixed in my 07 by changing the spark plugs. It felt just like a transmission problem.
 

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Good question! Toyota knows about the shudder problem but it's really not as big a problem as most FJ owner's think. You see the FJ's are really a very small set compared the overall large group of vehicles that use this A750. There are many more Tacoma's, 4Runner's and Tundra's not to mention all the other trucks world wide that are not imported into the US. So if you take all these trucks and then look at the shudder problem it's really not a big deal as most of the FJ owner's think.

NOW THINK ABOUT THIS....The FJ does NOT come with an external cooler. Most of the above mentioned trucks have an external cooler. It comes with the tow package. The FJ, because of it's wheelbase, does not have a tow package and thus, no external cooler. Could this be the reason FJ's have a shudder problem where these other trucks do not have this problem?
You bet it does! :grin
 

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Just to reinforce what one contributor said in an excellent post, by the way. Misfires of the engine can feel just like transmission problems. Shuddering under acceleration was fixed in my 07 by changing the spark plugs. It felt just like a transmission problem.
Good point. There are actually 3 types of shudders on this A750 trans. The most common is the TCC shudder. Then there is the engine misfire which feels exactly the same. This "shudder" has eaten many a good transmission rebuilder's lunch. :lol: The third type of shudder is a direct clutch shudder which has nothing to do with the torque converter at all.

Shudders can be very hard to diagnose. A good scan tool is very helpful here. If the engine is misfiring you can see it by watching the O2 sensors and the Short Term Fuel Trims. If the torque converter is shuddering you will see the fuel trim and O2 readings remain stable.
 

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What would the cost range be for a dealer to replace a torque converter? And do you think seeking out local transmission repair shops would be a viable option?
 

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The dealer will charge you $909 for the Torque Converter and about 8 hours labor. You can get a much cheaper price at a transmission shop. I always cringe when I see guys replacing torque converters because they don't always fix the shudder. A worn valve body can cause a shudder as can all the other things discussed earlier in this thread.
 

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Thanks so much, Jimmiee. I’ll have a transmission full-flush done first, as advocated by so many on this site, then consider my options.
 

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So I have a 2008 FJ, Auto. I'm at 92k miles. I bought it at 86k. When I bought it, the window sticker and the sales guy said it was certified. Now that I am experiencing this shudder problem at 1000-1200 rpm on inclines and intermittently, they are stating that it was too high mileage to be certified to begin with, and that the sales guy, the window sticker, and their system were incorrect. It's not certified. And they left any mention of the certification off of my sales paperwork. And they never gave me the window sticker so I can't prove it said it.

So they refuse to honor a warranty. Not only that, but I left it with them all day yesterday, they called me and told me that they found the problem, it was my driveshaft, which was too dry and never lubricated properly. So they lubcricated it and they said the shudder is gone now. I haven't picked it up yet but I feel like they are total dicks. They also said that my front brakes and calipers needed to be replaced, it would cost me $1013 to do the job, AND I JUST had the FJ in at 90k miles for an oil change where they do a comprehensive check on everything and they told me my brakes were 100%. WTF?! Total screw job! Bernardi Toyota I will never go to you again I hate you.

I'm thinking I will now have to sell my FJ, hopefully in a trade in to someone that doesn't experience the shudder, and get a jeep. Because this is not cool.
 

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So I have a 2008 FJ, Auto. I'm at 92k miles. I bought it at 86k. When I bought it, the window sticker and the sales guy said it was certified. Now that I am experiencing this shudder problem at 1000-1200 rpm on inclines and intermittently, they are stating that it was too high mileage to be certified to begin with, and that the sales guy, the window sticker, and their system were incorrect. It's not certified. And they left any mention of the certification off of my sales paperwork. And they never gave me the window sticker so I can't prove it said it.

So they refuse to honor a warranty. Not only that, but I left it with them all day yesterday, they called me and told me that they found the problem, it was my driveshaft, which was too dry and never lubricated properly. So they lubcricated it and they said the shudder is gone now. I haven't picked it up yet but I feel like they are total dicks. They also said that my front brakes and calipers needed to be replaced, it would cost me $1013 to do the job, AND I JUST had the FJ in at 90k miles for an oil change where they do a comprehensive check on everything and they told me my brakes were 100%. WTF?! Total screw job! Bernardi Toyota I will never go to you again I hate you.

I'm thinking I will now have to sell my FJ, hopefully in a trade in to someone that doesn't experience the shudder, and get a jeep. Because this is not cool.
Is this a threat or a promise? :lol: If you bone up on the facts, Jeeps have way more transmission problems than Toyota's. Are you going to buy a Grand Cherokee or a Liberty? The Grand Cherokee uses a 545RFE which is a little better than the 42RLE in the Liberty. Both of these transmissions don't hold a candle to the A750. Oh, BTW, the Wrangles also uses the 42RLE which is just a rear wheel drive Caravan Transmission. :lol:
 

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eh. it was just a frustrated idea. I picked the FJ back up today. It doesn't shudder as much, especially on the inclines. But it's still happening. If this is a transmission/tc issue, I would have liked to at least be dealing with someone who doesn't think lubricating the drive shaft would make it go away. And why do I have the feeling as soon as it gets over 100k miles (which is when a certified warranty is supposed to be good for) someone's going to tell me I need a new transmission, or something expensive? I don't trust these guys at the dealership. They said they test drove it after lubricating and it test drove okay. Within a minute of taking it off the lot I got the shudder problem again from a stop light. I want to go back, have them sit in the car with me and explain to me how it "tested okay". But I don't have the time or the energy right now to deal with it.
 

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Before you do anything rash, have the ATF completely exchanged. (that about 12-14 qts, not just a pan plug drop and fill). Then drive it for a few days and see if the shudder goes away.

DEWFPO
 

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Take it to another dealership and get a second opinion / diag. Remember anything you say may be documented so the next dealership will see the notes. If they think you are an ***hole they will treat you like one at the next dealership. So be careful what you say. I would have the transmission flushed completely (17 quarts minimum) and see if the shudder still exists.
 

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Thanks. Definitely going to try that. I have an appointment scheduled at a third party place tomorrow. Hopefully they'll be able to find something that I can go back to the dealer with, fix my certified warranty, and have them fix. It's a long process...I really love the FJ though it really is a bummer to have to go through this. I'll be trying to find out what the full transmission flush will cost too, based off of what I've read here and how it's fixed the problem for some people, I'd like to stay optimistic. I'm close to 100k miles anyways. I would like to think I'm generally a pretty nice guy so hopefully nobody has me documented as being an a**hole. Although the dealership where I bought the car, they had accused me of hitting a car in the services area on my first visit, because I parked next to one that they were working on. They never saw me hit anything and the camera's ended up showing I never hit it, so they had to drop the claim against me and pay outta their pocket..but I think after that they just have an asterisk next to my name to treat me like crap. They ended up not charging me anything for the diagnostic and lubricating the driveshaft with this latest shuddering problem. They may say it's because they were trying to be nice but it's no compensation for not honoring a certified warranty that was on the sticker when I bought the car to begin with. I haven't even been able to take it on any trails or anything b/c I live in MA and haven't found anywhere to go. (I'm totally new to any off-roading that I do anyways)...I just go camping a lot in some pretty back-country areas and love being able to get there safely. Anyways, I digress. Thank you for this thread and all the information, I'm hoping it will come in handy and be a huge part of me fixing the problem.
 

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Just as a follow up for anyone that searches on this issue themselves...Took it to the third party shop (transmission specialists). They deduced I needed a new torque converter. Took it back to the dealership. Because of the mileage on my FJ they couldn't certify it but the GM did the respectable and right thing, and had the tech's at the dealership do the repair and I just have to pay the cost of what a deductible would have been on the warranty. Picking it up tomorrow and then I'll have the paperwork on the work they did. But I would like to say the dealership (really the GM in particular) helped turn this around.
 

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Just had to add this as I now have my truck back in normal working order and am finally relieved. I've been researching the shudder problem for about 6 months to a year now. I have a 2007 FJ with about 160,000 miles on it. I've been driving around with the dreaded shudder for about 30,000 miles. Can't remember the one post I saw this product on but ended up spending the whopping $6.18 for a product called "Lubegard 19610 Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx, 2 oz." Ordered it last Friday via Amazon Prime, arrived Sunday morning, added the 2 oz to my transmission and started to my test drive. Unbelievable. My shudder is gone completely. I am very familiar with the speed and RPM range that the problem appears and for the life of me could not induce the shudder. Just passing this along to help alleviate others fustrations with this issue. Here is a link to the amazon page.

Amazon.com: Lubegard 19610 Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx, 2 oz.: Automotive
 

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ssimard, First post for you so Welcome Aboard. Glad to hear that Lubegard worked for you. Through the years the auto trans shops around here all recommended Lubegard products after they rebuilt my transmissions. This is what they recommended...Amazon.com: Lubegard 60902 Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant, 10 oz.: Automotive
:cheers:
Lubegard makes several different transmission additives as well as a shudder fix. Adding the regular Lubegard product is good insurance during a transmission service. The shudder fix is a concentrated additive which drastically changes the coefficient of friction. A note to issimard here. Now that you have added the shudder fix and the shudder is gone please change your transmission fluid. Do a complete flush. If you leave the old fluid in there your shudder will return and if it does you will be hard pressed to fix it a second time. The other reason to change your fluid is you don't want the coefficient of friction too high as it will lead to clutch slippage of your transmission clutches especially the direct clutch. I would recommend adding the regular Lubegard Platinum additive after you change (flush) your transmission. Have fun! :cheers:
 

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Lubegard makes several different transmission additives as well as a shudder fix. Adding the regular Lubegard product is good insurance during a transmission service. The shudder fix is a concentrated additive which drastically changes the coefficient of friction. A note to issimard here. Now that you have added the shudder fix and the shudder is gone please change your transmission fluid. Do a complete flush. If you leave the old fluid in there your shudder will return and if it does you will be hard pressed to fix it a second time. The other reason to change your fluid is you don't want the coefficient of friction too high as it will lead to clutch slippage of your transmission clutches especially the direct clutch. I would recommend adding the regular Lubegard Platinum additive after you change (flush) your transmission. Have fun! :cheers:
Hey jimmiee, I always learn something from your great knowledge when it comes to the workings of automatics! If you said it then to me it's etched in stone! :rocker:
 

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Hey guys I am having similar problems with the awful torque converter shudder. I have gotten a quote form 5 toyota dealerships ranging from $1900 to $2400. I am about to give this dr. tranny / shudder guard a try. However, I am not one that likes "quick fixes" that will just be a problem later. I was wondering if anyone has had their torque converter replaced at a transmission or a mechanic not at a dealership. I have received one estimate at a transmission shop for $600. Would yall recommend using a third party mechanic and aftermarket parts or not? Also, is there a certain brand of aftermarket converter you would recommend?
 
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