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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My Driver's Side Door Lock Actuator stopped working a few months ago, and I finally decided to fix it myself yesterday.

Information was derived heavily from the following threads:

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/interior-exterior-visual-tech/98591-door-lock-actuator-went-bad-dealership-wants-500-fix.html

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/how-technical-articles/55663-dash-console-door-panels-removal-inst-w-pics.html#post930221

Some instructions were somewhat vague to me, and pictures were lacking... So I decided to clean things up a bit and make sure all images were attachments stored locally on this Forum.

Steps below modified from this post; refer to the attached PDFs from that thread.



0. Acquaint yourself with the task at hand. Watch these two videos above prior to starting...

1. Attempt to use the driver's side lock switch to lock or unlock. If the other locks operate correctly while the driver's side lock doesn't, you most likely have a switch or actuator problem. For the rest of the discussion, we'll assume that it indeed is an actuator problem.

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2. Remove the door panel.

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3. Unhitch cables (and remember to snap them back into their slots on the door upon reassembly, otherwise the door will not lock).

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4. The door panel is held on by two screws and nine plastic snaps. Only a small segment of plastic barrier needs to be unpeeled. The caulk is gummy and entirely reusable.

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5. Unbolt the Door Lock Assembly (69040-47060, ~ $200 if to be replaced en bloc) with a #30 Torx bit, and the Window Track with a 10mm Hex Socket. Don't forget to unplug the assembly. Pull the assembly straight down (there is a single rod that slides - see reassembly).

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6. Remove cables, and screws, and loosen plastic latches (of which there are many). The latter part may leave your fingertips raw, even with proper tools. Pry out the metal latch plate. It will pull out as the cover is pried open.

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7. Review relative positions of components in mechanism.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
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8. Remove the two screws securing the motor / switch assembly, then remove the motor, worm gear and electrical plug.

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9. You can either try to salvage the existing motor...

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From eBay:

FC-280PC-22125 Motor w/ Long D Shaft for Car Door Locks and Mirrors

Brand new electric motor
12V DC nominal
No load speed: 13,100 RPM
No load current: 110 mA
Recommended operating voltage range: 8 VDC to 15 VDC
Full load (maximum efficiency @ 12VDC) performance characteristics:
Speed: 11,480 RPM
Current: 780 mA
Torque: 49 g-cm (4.76 mN-m)
Power output: 5.71 Watts
Stall torque: 393 g-cm (38.6 mN-m)
Stall current: 5.56 Amperes
Bidirectional, dependent on polarity
Dimensions (not including shaft): 30.5 mm long x 24.2 mm wide x 18.3 mm high
D-Type (flat on one side) shaft dimensions: 19.0mm long x 2.0mm diameter
Terminals: Push - in
Weight: 45 g each
10. ... or simply install a new one.

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11. Removing the lock cylinder prior to sliding the actuator assembly in eases reassembly, due to the need for aligning this cruciform extension with the actuator... Upon reinstallation, the Window Track needs to be wiggled behind the actuator, and this "bent bar" of sorts needs to be insinuated in the hole as illustrated. Not sure what the terms for these parts are - perhaps someone can fill me in.
 

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I just performed this today and if you take your time and follow the instructions it works flawlessly

The hardest part is putting the actuator back into the door and lining everything up

My suggestions have someone else to help

Have this page open to use pictures and notes ( for part placement and instructions )


Toyota wanted $600.00 for the actuator and 2 hours to install $140/per hour

Took me and a friend roughly 1.5 hours and got the part on amazon for under $20 bucks shipped to my door

Hope this helps others

M
 
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