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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, I just finished installing the skid. on the ground with a creeper, took a little thinking and muscle. but it is doable. just a note, when you are removing the driverside bolts make sure you use a jack or jack stand to hold the center transfer case up where it is supposed to be before removing the factory bolts.

then I also recomend having a friend help you hold up the skid i did it by myself but i had to find some Back muscles and use a knee. I first backed off all the bolts, so it was all loose, this included the fuel line bracket (Driverside)Remove it, the Exhaust bracket (Passenger side)Remove it. then put the passenger side bolts through the open holes in frame,(Front Passenger side) but before pushing all the way through pushed up the Spacer that comes with the skid, (that goes in between the skid and the frame(crossmember) then put the washer on and nut. Leave it loose this is only to hold the skid from falling back out.
Then I proceeded to put the driverside (long bolts that come with the skid)
through the holes that you removed the factory ones from and started them, (Leave them loose also)

Then i installed the longer bolts (that come with skid plate)to the fuel line and the extra bolt hole provided in frame(Open) Leave them loose also.

Then I installed the longer bolt(That also comes with the skid) in the exhaust bracket on Passenger side.(You will also have to loosen the top bracket bolt) and install the other open hole longer bolt.

After you get all these started then i tightened up the outside bolt (Passenger side) then moved to the driverside and tightened the outside bolt and then moved to the outside bolts and tightened them all. then moved to the inside bolts both sides and tightened them(Give them a Good Tug Tight Pull) this does hold the transfer case in place.

Tools needed 2- 9/16ths wrenches
1 -3/8ths drive rachet ( Medium extension)
1- 9/16ths socket
1- 12mm socket
1- Large coffee
If you have any questions on the install just send me a PM.
I will post pictures later it is dark out right now.

this thing is as tough, and well built as trail gear sliders, I give this skid a:bigthumb: if you do not want to put a full set of skids on right now. it is heavy but that is Durability imo.. Good Job Trailgear. and they got it here like lightening.. it did not come with any instructions so I thought i would share.:cheers: Grunting is allowed..
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Moderators feel free to make this a sticky if you think it is appropriate.I will try to get a few pictures on the post In a couple of days. thx
 

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Sound like a pretty easy install!:bigthumb: Pics please!:cheers:
 

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The Laughing Member
2007 FJ Cruiser, 2021 4Runner, 2002 Lexus SC420
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Moderators feel free to make this a sticky if you think it is appropriate.I will try to get a few pictures on the post In a couple of days. thx
Hey Mike, if you can throw in a bunch of pics, we can add it to the Tech Articles section.
 

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My 3-ton jack is my helper and I used a block of wood (2"x4"x12") to hold/support the skid. After the skid holes are lined up, i raised the jack just enough the keep the skid from moving. Then insert/tighten the bolts and nuts

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for the pic nda.

I also must add , when you intall the skid make sure you pull it down front and back , when you push it up it rattles against the exhaust pipe. Also the bracket that holds the tailpipe on frame i flattened the bracket and slipped it behind the skid mount. to help keep the pipe tight
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
my thoughts already, so beside a drain for the transfer case, a drain for anything else
 

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Thanks for the pics - I was hoping for some.

Has anyone gotten gutsy enough to try putting a jack under the plate and lifting the truck a little bit yet? or have some good "in action" pictures?
 

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Two problems I had with this TG skid......and how I resovled these issues.

1) the holes in the skid plate that attach at the driverside utilizing the existing brake line mount and pre-threaded frame mounts did not line up with the skid. With the skid in place I was able to pull the skid down far enough to use a uni-bit to drill and open it up about a quarter of an inch that it was off.

2) there was not enough clearance at the rear side of the exhaust running horrizontally (driver to pasenger side) to clear the inside rear portion of this skid plate that is ment to popdown to accomodate the crossover exhaust as designed. On the initial test drive I'd periodically hear the exhaust vibrate against the skid.

I was able to make additional spacers (with large diameter washers) to mount in between the frame on driverside and TG skid, and in between the TG supplied spacer and TG skid. I was able to push the skid back about an additional 1/4 inch with these spacers in place.

One other note: with the additional spacers and All-Pro transmission skid plate, I replaced the TG supplied bolts with 5 inch 8 grade bolts that I got from Checker Auto.

Also, there is no need to remove the stock skid from the transfer case as there is plenty of room (about an inch) between it and the TG skid. IMO Trail-Gear should tighten up that space for additional clearance.
 

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In regards to needing a jack to hold the crossmember, I just made sure I kept one bolt in at all times. I don't remember the exact procedure, but it wasn't rocket science. I installed it with nothing more than a socket wrench and ratchet.
 

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I was wondering why you would spend extra money on powdercoating? If you do off road and use the skids that pretty powder coating will come off the first time you hit it. I just use a cheap can of paint and when it gets destroyed I just spray them again. Powder coating looks nice but its to expencive for the use.
 

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I have a new T-case skid from Trailgear that I tried fitting on my 4th gen 4Runner but things dont line up so I'm going to sell this one. $150 for SoCal pickup. There are a few scratches from trial fitting but it is a skid plate after all. Pm me if interested.

Thanks
Mark
 
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