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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just bought a 2011 FJ Cruiser, 2WD, Automatic trans, with 153,000 miles. The previous owner gave me all of his service records, mostly just basic routine oil changes and stuff, and I found a service record from Express Oil Change for "Auto Trans Drain & Fill" at 89,000 miles for $55.

From the records I have, that's the only trans service. So, it's now up to 153,000 miles, and I'm trying to decide if I again go with a simple, "drain and fill", or if it needs a more aggressive "FLUSH" treatment and also getting the pan dropped to check out the screen and magnet??

I've already read many messages here on the forum about just a drain-and-refill, vs. a full blown "flush", and then whether or not to drop the pan and change the screen. There were many opinions each way, but most of those were on FJs that had much lower miles.

So, I'm seeking recommendations on what to do...
 

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I just bought a 2011 FJ Cruiser, 2WD, Automatic trans, with 153,000 miles. To be safe, I'm going to assume that the previous owner had never serviced the transmission fluid, so, surely at 153,000 miles I should get the transmission fluid changed, right?

I've already read many messages here on the forum about just drain-and-refill, vs. a full blown "flush", and then whether or not to drop the pan and change the screen. There were many opinons each way, but most of those were on FJs that had much lower miles.

So, I'm seeking recommendations on what to do...
I would suggest dropping the pan, cleaning out the magnets and checking the sludge attached to them. Then change the filter screen and refill. What you find will determine the next service interval.
 

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Make it simple. Just drain the trans pan. In my 07 its approx. 4 qts. Find out how much your 11 pan holds and replace that amount. No need to take the pan off :)
 

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Plus one on drain/fill.. A few guys question why just 4qts. I've gotten advice 'which I believe' from some old school mechanics on this years ago. The idea being that transmission fluid is such a good cleaner that in their experience doing a full flush at such long intervals could loosen deposits causing them to clog some of the small internal passages cutting off fluid circulation. Where as changing approximately a third is like diluting the cleaning agent. So even though problems could still arise chances will hopefully lessen. Then after five to ten thousand miles you can repeat the drain/refill procedure gently flushing buildup.

As always this is a theory and I am not a mechanic, just an FJ enthusiast who likes to tinker...
 

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I went to a great Toyota mechanic for a malfunctioning rear differential, (he fixed it in an hour lucky this time!). He mentioned I should get my fluids changed in differential, but said make sure you get a new "breather"... cheap and easy to do( little air check valve). All this garage does is Toyota and he says most of the seized differential don't have this done, can cause huge problems if it doesn't work. Also don't expect oil change places (17yr old mechanics) to change them.
 

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I recommend a drain and refill you should be good 90k miles between services. put in exactly how much came out so get a measuring cup used for baking ;) hint hint. I wouldnt pay someone to do it.
 

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Hopefully this is OK, but to add to this question (I have an '07 with 136k I'm planning on draining and filling since there's no history of transmission service ever being done), is it recommended to change the transmission pan gasket? I see RockAuto has gaskets for something like $5 on clearance, so I was thinking of replacing it for the hell of it when I do a drain and fill. They have both 19 hole and 20 hole gaskets though, and I'm not sure which one mine takes without crawling under there and looking myself.
 

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I looked at the service manual its 20 bolts. I wouldn't be too concerned though oil doesn't sludge as much as you would think. maybe to clean the magnet go for it.
 

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Oil and filter and some problems filled to proper level.Before you started be familiar with no dipstick transmission(SEAL tranmisson).Not hard to changed.Be familiar and scaner read life date and transmission fluid temperature.
 

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My opinion is to drop the pan, check the magnets, replace the filter and install the new gasket with the pan and new fluid. It takes type WS or World Standard. The pan bolts don't get much torque, don't crank them down.

I did mine at around 90k. No problems found. It took several tries to get the level correct. I filled it till fluid came out of the standpipe plug, ran it till it was up to temperature and drove it, going through all of the "gears", adjusted the level. Then did the same a couple of more times before the level was stable.
 
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