Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

1 - 20 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, just yesterday I changed the transmission fluid in my FJ Cruiser and everything went smoothly following directions on the forum here. Well today I thought I'd make sure and check the transmission fluid to make sure it's where it should be.

Btw when changing the transmission fluid I did exactly what was stated online. What I took out of the transmission, I put that amount exactly back in. For example I would remove 2 quarts and I would refill with 2 quarts.

So anyways I didn't have a paper clip to do the flash on the OBD2 to flash the three lights on the dash so someone mentioned take the FJ for a drive for about 15 minutes which warms the transmission up enough to check the fluid. So I went out for a 15 minute drive and came back home and parked in the garage. I left the FJ running as should be done in checking the fluid amount and I crawled up underneath to where the bolt is for checking the fluid level and transmission fluid started pouring out good and it scared the s**t out of me so I placed the bolt back on real quick and tightened it down. Good thing I have gloves on lol. Anyways about a quart of transmission must have come out on the garage floor. Surely I wasn't overfilled this much was I? What I pumped out is what I put in. I was afraid to let it drain anymore because I didn't want all the fluid to drain out if possible.

Help please, I'm a little bothered by this. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Pic of transmission fluid on garage floor.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,923 Posts
When you performed your fluid change, was the transmission fluid cold, warm, or up to full operating temperature?

If the transmission fluid you were draining out was warm or hot, it had expanded. If you replaced one quart of hot (low density) fluid with exactly the same volume of cold (high density) fluid, when the cold fluid comes up to operating temperature it will now expand and the transmission will be overfilled.

That's why Toyota's fluid level check must be conducted at a very specific fluid temperature.

If you did actually replace hot fluid with cold fluid during your change, you're going to have to drain some of the excess out so the level is correct when the fluid is at operating temperature.

All hydrocarbon fluids have a fairly large coefficient of thermal expansion. That's why auto trans vehicles with dipsticks for checking fluid level will have two sets of fairly widely spaced fluid level markings on the dipstick: one for cold fluid, and one for hot fluid that has expanded to a greater volume.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
When you performed your fluid change, was the transmission fluid cold, warm, or up to full operating temperature?

If the transmission fluid you were draining out was warm or hot, it had expanded. If you replaced one quart of hot (low density) fluid with exactly the same volume of cold (high density) fluid, when the cold fluid comes up to operating temperature it will now expand and the transmission will be overfilled.

That's why Toyota's fluid level check must be conducted at a very specific fluid temperature.

If you did actually replace hot fluid with cold fluid during your change, you're going to have to drain some of the excess out so the level is correct when the fluid is at operating temperature.

All hydrocarbon fluids have a fairly large coefficient of thermal expansion. That's why auto trans vehicles with dipsticks for checking fluid level will have two sets of fairly widely spaced fluid level markings on the dipstick: one for cold fluid, and one for hot fluid that has expanded to a greater volume.

I think my FJ had been sitting for about 45 minutes before I performed the transmission fluid change.

I was finally able to come up with some copper wire to jump the 4 and 13 pins on the obd2 and it took me forever to get it to go into AT Temp mode but finally flashed. I placed the vehicle in Park and the AT Temp light contentiously flashed and I think or thought this would be when you would check the overflow plug. I crawled underneath and removed the bolt and about half a quart came out then trickled out.

If the AT Temp was just flashing in Park is that when your suppose to check or is it when it's a solid AT Temp light? If it's supposed to be solid then should I wait for about 30 to 45 mins and try putting it into AT Temp mode again and wait for it to light up solid then crawl underneath and check?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Pic of transmission fluid on garage floor.
When you performed your fluid change, was the transmission fluid cold, warm, or up to full operating temperature?

If the transmission fluid you were draining out was warm or hot, it had expanded. If you replaced one quart of hot (low density) fluid with exactly the same volume of cold (high density) fluid, when the cold fluid comes up to operating temperature it will now expand and the transmission will be overfilled.

That's why Toyota's fluid level check must be conducted at a very specific fluid temperature.

If you did actually replace hot fluid with cold fluid during your change, you're going to have to drain some of the excess out so the level is correct when the fluid is at operating temperature.

All hydrocarbon fluids have a fairly large coefficient of thermal expansion. That's why auto trans vehicles with dipsticks for checking fluid level will have two sets of fairly widely spaced fluid level markings on the dipstick: one for cold fluid, and one for hot fluid that has expanded to a greater volume.

I think my FJ had been sitting for about 45 minutes before I performed the transmission fluid change.

I was finally able to come up with some copper wire to jump the 4 and 13 pins on the obd2 and it took me forever to get it to go into AT Temp mode but finally flashed. I placed the vehicle in Park and the AT Temp light contentiously flashed and I think or thought this would be when you would check the overflow plug. I crawled underneath and removed the bolt and about half a quart came out then trickled out.

If the AT Temp was just flashing in Park is that when your suppose to check or is it when it's a solid AT Temp light? If it's supposed to be solid then should I wait for about 30 to 45 mins and try putting it into AT Temp mode again and wait for it to light up solid then crawl underneath and check?
Update:

I waited two hours to try again. I go it into the temp mode but when placed in Park it doesn't stay lit the whole time it will blink twice every 2 seconds or so. Is this the time to check?

I used the video below which says if the AT Temp illuminates constantly it's ready to check but if it blinks it's to hot to check. So should it stay lit solid and no change for about 10 mins?

Like I said I waited 2 hours is this not a good enough cool down?

http://youtu.be/vpGIBJPnJX4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,923 Posts
After you have jumpered pins #4 and #13 on the diagnostic connector DLC3, and started the engine, the A/T OIL TEMP light will turn on for about 2 seconds, indicating that the system is receiving data from the transmission temperature sensor(s).

The light will turn on again, and stay on, when the fluid temperature reaches 115 deg F.

Finally, the light will begin flashing when the fluid temperature exceeds 130 deg. F.

The fluid level should be checked when the fluid temperature is between 115 F and 130F (e.g. as soon as possible after the light turns on solid, and before it begins flashing).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
After you have jumpered pins #4 and #13 on the diagnostic connector DLC3, and started the engine, the A/T OIL TEMP light will turn on for about 2 seconds, indicating that the system is receiving data from the transmission temperature sensor(s).

The light will turn on again, and stay on, when the fluid temperature reaches 115 deg F.

Finally, the light will begin flashing when the fluid temperature exceeds 130 deg. F.

The fluid level should be checked when the fluid temperature is between 115 F and 130F (e.g. as soon as possible after the light turns on solid, and before it begins flashing).
Sounds good. I think tomorrow morning I'll put a half quart in then perform the test. Give everything time to cool down.

So I guess it takes longer than two hours to cool down to where it should.

Before it reaches 115 where it remains solid lit till after 130, will it blink? Or will it show no blink or anything at all till 115 when it stays lit solid till the 130 mark?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well I got it to work and stay solid lit for the check. I pulled the plug and about a good half quart came out easily and I waited till it was a skinny tiny trickle flow of fluid and I placed the bolt back in and tightened it up.

Took it for a test drive and I must say it's super smooth shifting and feels really good. It's a lot smoother than previously. Although previously was smooth but you can tell it's even more smoother - basically it was time for a change lol.

Tomorrow morning I'll test once more the legs just for piece of mind.

Next and last is the rear diff, front diff and transfer case.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
772 Posts
I have yet to get this thing to go into the temp mode. PM sent.
Glad l checked this thread out.
I previously asked the dealership to verify the level was correct after doing the flush.
So I just verified that they either don't know how to properly check the level or they plain out didn't do it.

I was one quart overfilled.

The OBD port is upside down in the truck when compared to the diagram. So #4 is actually 5 slots from the left on the bottom row
#13 is 4 over from the left on the top row.

Used the paper clip.

All the lights lit up on the dash display.
Only after pulling the shifter down to neutral and shifting it back and forth into drive then neutral 4 times did the transmission light come on.

Thanks NW FJC. That PDF was key. That red light won't come on unless the shifting exercise is executed.

It flashed twice, then went dark for a second or two and then remained lit indicating it was ready to check. The truck was shut down about 3 hours prior and still warm.

Drained off the quart and it was clean, red, and smelled great.

Took truck for a ride and all is well, maybe better.

Reconnected pins when I got home and did the shifter neutral drive thing to get back to the transmission temp mode and the light flashed twice then after that same second or two, began flashing continously indicating that the temp was over 130°F.

I was surprised all the lights came on.
The OBD plug is upside down.
The shifter thing is key.
Don't trust dealership.

I hope/don't think that any damage was done judging by the condition of the oil that came out.
The shifting prior to draining this quart off seemed not quite right. Mostly coasting down hills it seemed to hang in 4th rather than go into OD. Maybe my imagination

We'll see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I have yet to get this thing to go into the temp mode. PM sent.
Glad l checked this thread out.
I previously asked the dealership to verify the level was correct after doing the flush.
So I just verified that they either don't know how to properly check the level or they plain out didn't do it.

I was one quart overfilled.

The OBD port is upside down in the truck when compared to the diagram. So #4 is actually 5 slots from the left on the bottom row
#13 is 4 over from the left on the top row.

Used the paper clip.

All the lights lit up on the dash display.
Only after pulling the shifter down to neutral and shifting it back and forth into drive then neutral 4 times did the transmission light come on.

Thanks NW FJC. That PDF was key. That red light won't come on unless the shifting exercise is executed.

It flashed twice, then went dark for a second or two and then remained lit indicating it was ready to check. The truck was shut down about 3 hours prior and still warm.

Drained off the quart and it was clean, red, and smelled great.

Took truck for a ride and all is well, maybe better.

Reconnected pins when I got home and did the shifter neutral drive thing to get back to the transmission temp mode and the light flashed twice then after that same second or two, began flashing continously indicating that the temp was over 130°F.

I was surprised all the lights came on.
The OBD plug is upside down.
The shifter thing is key.
Don't trust dealership.

I hope/don't think that any damage was done judging by the condition of the oil that came out.
The shifting prior to draining this quart off seemed not quite right. Mostly coasting down hills it seemed to hang in 4th rather than go into OD. Maybe my imagination

We'll see.

Yeah there are two important things and that's allow the temp not to be to high as the Temp light will not stay lit "solid" if it blinks in Park then it's to warm and you will need to wait awhile for it to cool down. Honestly letting it sit over night is probably the best thing to do which is what I did - it's like starting fresh on everything.

Second thing is shifting from "N" Neutral to "D" Drive repeatedly this is the key and very important in getting into the Temp mode. Best method or way I could explain without using something like a metronome lol would be like flashing the lights on/off in your house. For example on/off on/off on/off and just keep repeating without stoping till the AT Temp light flashes. Place in "P" Park and it will flash once more indicating you shifted into "P" Park while in Temp mode. Leave in "P" Park until Temp light fully illuminates "solid" no blinking period. The Temp light will blink really fast before it becomes solid lit. So you'll need to wait a couple minutes with no Temp light 3-5 minutes (depending how long your vehicle has not been running), next AT Temp light will flash/blink really fast before becoming a "solid" lit up light and last the AT Temp light will be solid lit after it flashes really fast. How long the AT Temp light will stay lit depends on how cool the engine/tranny was at the time you performed this and also how long it took you to get into AT Temp mode. I had approximately about 10 minutes because I let the FJ sit over night and and it didn't take me long to get the FJ into AT Temp mode.

Btw I think it might be just your OBD2 port being upside down. Mine is currently sitting like it should be. Not sure why yours is sitting upside down. Maybe their placed upside down by factory and the original owner of my FJ swapped it the right or maybe this is your case lol, who knows lol.
 
  • Like
Reactions: iwashmycar

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
772 Posts
Honestly letting it sit over night is probably the best thing to do which is what I did - it's like starting fresh on everything. ......

...........I had approximately about 10 minutes because I let the FJ sit over night and and it didn't take me long to get the FJ into AT Temp mode.

Btw I think it might be just your OBD2 port being upside down. Mitine is currently sitting like it should be. Not sure why yours is sitting upside down. Maybe their placed upside down by factory and the original owner of my FJ swapped it the right or maybe this is your case lol, who knows lol.
Yeah on the stone cold thing.

Got the truck at up on level ground and ready to re check tomorrow morning. The whole thermal expansion thing is what got my attention. I know very well about this phenomenon and am a little disappointed in myself for not taking this into consideration when I did the flush and did a volumetric refill.

I didn't let the pan completely dribble out to nothing tonight. It was my intention to redo in the morning from cold.

Don't know what to make of the OBD port. Probably ought flip it around. :surprise

Also didn't put truck into Park when doing this earlier. Neutral with brake on. Not sure if that matters or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
If you can flip your OBD2 port than I don't see any hurt in doing it, otherwise just remember when using it or having codes read (hopefully you never have too) that it's upside down.

When doing all this I pulled the e-brake as far as it would go and when shifting I kept my foot on the brake. I don't think you can shift the FJ without your foot on the brake. And lastly when you jump out to release the overflow your FJ will be in "P" Park and if you used the e-brake your good as well, no worries. If worried of rolling which I find impossible if in "P" Park let alone using the e-brake than you can block the wheels but I don't see this being needed honestly.

And yes, you need to be in "P" Park in order for this to work.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sweptwingnut

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,431 Posts
I am going to give this another go in the morning while the skids are still off. I double checked the pins I am jumping and at least I have that part right. Just have to get the shift sequence down.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I am going to give this another go in the morning while the skids are still off. I double checked the pins I am jumping and at least I have that part right. Just have to get the shift sequence down.

Yeah shifting is not to hard. Just remember when you were a kid flipping the lights on/off and getting yelled at by your folks lol. On/off same as Up/down contentiously saying this in your head as you shift and until you see the AT Temp flash at which point you shift it to "P" Park and once you set it in "P" Park the AT Temp light will flash once more and go out. Let the engine idle in "P" Park until the AT Temp light lights up solid. Right before it lights up solid it may flash really fast but wait till its solid. It may take about 5 mins or so from the time you put it into "P" before the AT Temp light flashes and the AT Temp light stays solid. You will have approximately about 5 to 10 minutes to get the overflow performed before the AT Temp light starts to blink by which time it's to hot to do it and the engine/tranny must cool before trying again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sweptwingnut

·
Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Having the skids off makes changing all the fluids underneath a breeze, that's if your doing everything like diffs, transfer case, transmission and all. I took mine all off and it's easy to bolt back up.
 
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
Top