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Hey Everyone. I just bought an 2007 Tonka Truck Yellow Toyota Fj from a used car dealership it has 148000 miles on it and i am absolutely in love, it runs great only problem is the infamous "shudder' Ive been reading a lot of the threads and I've seen some different things, and i have a few Questions. First off I've heard about doing a total transmission flush, Im very new to the Fj (actually its my first truck really) and I was talking to my dad about the shudder and told him about doing a Transmission flush to fix the shudder, He seemed concerned about doing this because he said that when they Flush the old fluid out they pump it back through the transmission and some of the "gunk" could get lodged up there essentially not fully flushing it, and Im no Mechanic by any means haha to really know if thats right or wrong i know a little stuff here and there but no serious knowledge on the mechanics other than what i can read and learn from the forums or my Dad, now i Have heard of the Dr. Trannys Instant shudder fix, and i told him about that too and he says to try that first before doing a flush. So we were going to try that But before we did i wanted to come on here and ask the community about How to get the Dr trannys instant shudder fix into the transmission? Like Step By Step Instructions. hahaha I Really Appreciate any help i can get :) Im also very new to the Forum so I'm Still trying to learn this as well. haha
 

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There is a 24mm bolt ( plug ) on the passenger side of the transmission there is no dip stick or fill tube.That is where your fluid can be added. :)
 

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Doing a complete fluid change which is outlined in several of the threads here is not the same as a pressurized flush.

It simply pumps all of the old fluid out into a container while you pour in new. No risk and it has a very good track record of getting rid of the shudder.
 

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I am new to FJ's myself but I recently did a trans filter and fluid change on my Van. Immediately after the fluid change the van lurched when accelerating. Felt like it was dropping down a gear and revving up before the gear kicked in and the car would almost chirp. ALARMING! Your dad is right DO NOT change all the fluid in an old trans all at once.
Until 2 weeks later all was good to go. Theory is that the trans fluid left in there was so old and had lost it's viscosity that the new stuff had not worked it's way through the system. So there were moments where there was no resistance hence the lurching. I added some Lucas transmission in after that and the thing shifted very very smoothly.

My brother in law had an Audi that had old fluid in it and the thing drove like ass. New fluid and it was like a brand new car.

My advice... Take the time to see where the shudder happens. Make a note of when the gear shifts and when the shudder kicks in. AND before doing anything ridiculously expensive, do a 3 quart drain and refill then drive it around for a couple weeks. If there is slight improvement I would recommend doing another 3 quart job to see what that yields. It has a decent chance although not guaranteed of resolving your issue before you have to blow your wad on transmission work or a full flush at the dealership\shop.

You'll need a 24mm socket and new washer gaskets from Toyota, drain pan, cardboard (for spillage), jack or ramps and a cheap hand pump from harbor freight. Let me know if you have any questions.
Theres a few things I missed but there are great threads on this forum that go into detail.

BTW I have a slight shudder at 40kmh only when accelerating slowly. I have done one drain and refill and will do another one in about a month as 3 quarts is only a fraction of what is in the transmission.

Some good stuff here but he's got the socket sizes wrong for FJ's I like the diagram that shows how the overfill works though.



 

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I am new to FJ's myself but I recently did a trans filter and fluid change on my Van. Immediately after the fluid change the van lurched when accelerating. Felt like it was dropping down a gear and revving up before the gear kicked in and the car would almost chirp. ALARMING! Your dad is right DO NOT change all the fluid in an old trans all at once.
Until 2 weeks later all was good to go. Theory is that the trans fluid left in there was so old and had lost it's viscosity that the new stuff had not worked it's way through the system. So there were moments where there was no resistance hence the lurching. I added some Lucas transmission in after that and the thing shifted very very smoothly.

My brother in law had an Audi that had old fluid in it and the thing drove like ass. New fluid and it was like a brand new car.

My advice... Take the time to see where the shudder happens. Make a note of when the gear shifts and when the shudder kicks in. AND before doing anything ridiculously expensive, do a 3 quart drain and refill then drive it around for a couple weeks. If there is slight improvement I would recommend doing another 3 quart job to see what that yields. It has a decent chance although not guaranteed of resolving your issue before you have to blow your wad on transmission work

You'll need a 24mm socket and new washer gaskets from Toyota, drain pan, cardboard (for spillage), jack or ramps and a cheap hand pump from harbor freight. Let me know if you have any questions.
Theres a few things I missed but there are great threads on this forum that go into detail.

BTW I have a slight shudder at 40kmh only when accelerating slowly. I have done one drain and refill and will do another one in about a month as 3 quarts is only a fraction of what is in the transmission.

Some good stuff here but he's got the socket sizes wrong for FJ's I like the diagram that shows how the overfill works though.
How to change transmission fluid in an 07 Toyota Tacoma V6 PreRunner (2005-2010 models) - YouTube



How to FJ cruiser drain / refill transmission pan only - YouTube




-Many of guys on this forum have done the complete fluid change as outlined on this site with no adverse affects and many have had immediate results of it fixing the shudder issue if they had it.

Before giving advice not to perform a full fluid change on for a vehicle you have no experience with, I'd suggest reading through the 86 pages of information already been discussed on this topic here: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru.../122920-shuddering-transmission-problems.html


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-Many of guys on this forum have done the complete fluid change as outlined on this site with no adverse affects and many have had immediate results of it fixing the shudder issue if they had it.

Before giving advice not to perform a full fluid change on for a vehicle you have no experience with, I'd suggest reading through the 86 pages of information already been discussed on this topic here: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru.../122920-shuddering-transmission-problems.html


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AHAHAHHAHA! What a pleasant gentleman. But on the upside I just learned there is an ignore list. I didn't know this forum had issues with sharing experiences one has had with other vehicles and or how you would approach an issue based on these experiences. Classic.
Also the post cited above contains mixed results and conflicting information about full flush and dealers and shops advising against full flushes as per Service Bulletins.
A 3 quart drain and fill seems to be the least invasive of things to try without risking someone else's transmission that you don't have to pay for if things go south.

I think I may have just had my first interaction with an FJ snob.
 

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I do a full fluid flush every 50K. My 150K flush is coming soon. Never had a shudder. Transmission should run indefinetly if you keep up with the maintence :)
 

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My two cents. Do the full drain and refill.
Did my first at 85k+. Second at 180k+ and still shifting smoothly. I'm gonna do a pan drain and fill now that I'm at 230k for the hell of it.

These transmissions are great. Do the flush, install a cooler, and drive the thing.
 

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Hey Reemik,
Your Dad may have had some correct insight on this. Please take a look at the following to help you make your decision... posted by apachewink. Note the part about possible filter clogging and introducing detergents into a system that may have been operating without for an extended period of time.
This comes from a gentleman that rebuilds transmissions as a profession.
To address my own shuddering issue I will continue to drain and fill a few more times before I decide to do a full flush (maybe). Let the gradual addition of new detergents to slowly do their job and hopefully move some of the debris out. I have no idea how neglected the transmission servicing was by the previous owner although I have my suspicions that nothing has been done til now @ 179,00kms (110,000 miles) Eventual decision will be made on the viscosity of the ATF coming out of the transmission drain. At the moment it's very dark and a watery consistency.

Quote: apachewink

"Well here it goes... I know some will disagree with me on this post but o'well, I actually built transmissions professionally and owned a Automotive and Transmission Shop and provided national technical support for other repair shops.

Having the fluid 100% replaced by removing a cooler line is great especially if the fluid is dirty... NOT burned... but keep in mind the friction modifiers and detergents in new fluid may cause the transmission to shift a bit strange due to TCC/Torque Converter Clutch Friction Plate Glazing as well as those of the Shift Clutches (Fwd and Reverse/Direct Clutch Packs). The new high detergent oil can cause some of the debris to break loose where before it wasn't causing any problems and often times I would see this causing stuck valves in the valve body. This was very prevalent on extremely dirty transmissions from lack of servicing. I would void the warranty on any transmission I rebuilt if you took it to a shop that "FLUSHES" transmissions as a part of the servicing. Without going into a lot of detail, it is very easy for a professional rebuild to know if a transmission failed from flushing... All I will say here is... Bushing damage and wear doesn't lie. Now why did the so called flushing come about... it's called extended sales and profits and how to raise the average dollar per repair order. IMO it was always total BS and I never caved into that. I'm not saying flushing isn't needed, but if a transmission has an internal hard part failure and there is metal in the cooler system and lines, flushing is the only way to get all that crap out; however, the transmission is removed from the vehicle and I used to flush the coolers for about 4 - 8 hours with constantly changing fluid direction.

I would recommend changing the fluid for most vehicles 18-24K which on most vehicles would be 4 - 8 quarts. This would put some of the detergents and friction modifiers back into the transmission fluid. If the fluid was very old and yellow or worse but not burned, then I would recommend changing all of it by the cooler line method but there are always consequences that may arise from this.

I applaud the dealer for telling you no on flushing... The reason it damages the filter is because of all the debris that breaks loose after the flush machine is disconnected and the high detergents take effect to break all the crap loose that wasn't hurting a thing has to go somewhere... IE the filter suction which then restricts the flow = Low Line Pressure and Loss of Cooler Line Flow and now you have TCC Clutch and Drive Clutch Slippage.

If you really want to do the best for the transmission, just service it 18 - 24K for HD, 4WD, or Towing and 30K for daily easy driving. Mostly all transmission fluids will last 100K but keep in mind the friction modifiers and detergents will pretty much be nil at this point and the friction clutches are probably excessively glazed.

Synthetic Fluids and Amsoil all have pretty much one thing in common... Raises the boiling point of the fluid... Thats a good thing... plus the slip characteristics/friction modifiers reduce the clutch plate glazing and wear for both the drive clutches and TCC Clutch. Why is this important... Heat kills transmissions and transmissions that slip too much generate HEAT which in turn breaks down the fluid. Not enough slippages causes clutches to grab and then you see spline and the internal teeth damage to the friction plates and drive components... IE Sun Drive Shells, ect.

I probably have bored you all too much, but this is what happens when you eat, drink, and dream about dumb a$$ transmissions in you sleep."
 

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AHAHAHHAHA! What a pleasant gentleman. But on the upside I just learned there is an ignore list. I didn't know this forum had issues with sharing experiences one has had with other vehicles and or how you would approach an issue based on these experiences. Classic.
Also the post cited above contains mixed results and conflicting information about full flush and dealers and shops advising against full flushes as per Service Bulletins.
A 3 quart drain and fill seems to be the least invasive of things to try without risking someone else's transmission that you don't have to pay for if things go south.

I think I may have just had my first interaction with an FJ snob.
Didn't intend to offend you. Just suggesting you do some research before suggesting that folks don't do what actually works.

Keep in mind: There is a huge difference between a machine transmission flush and simply doing full fluid change via the transmission return line. Many people in these threads are incorrectly stating they "flushed" theirs when actually they simply drained out all the old via the return line and added all new in a few quarts at a time. An actual flush is performed by a pressurized machine and there are indeed some cases of vehicles, FJ and other, that have had issues arise after such a flush. A full fluid change is simply draining and refilling with no back pressure.

If you were to go into the two main threads here that discuss the DIY fluid change and tally all of the folks that have done the full fluid change and then tally how many of those folks had any problems resulting from doing it, you'd likely find that the overwhelming majority have had no issues at all upon doing the full DIY change and most had complete remedy of any shuddering problems that they may have had previously.
In fact, I don't recall anyone here ever reporting a problem or failure after changing out the transmission fluid via the return line change method described in the threads below. There may have been some that didn't get rid of their shudder after doing it, but their condition was present before the change anyway.

44 pages here: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...n-aids/96199-diy-auto-transmission-flush.html

86 pages here: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru.../122920-shuddering-transmission-problems.html

Basically it boils down to the fact that the FJ doesn't have an external tranny cooler like other Toyota vehicles that use the same transmission and the long service/lifetime fluid recommendation from Toyota is incorrect as the fluid does in fact break down and needs changed sooner than they think. Those other Toyota models with an external cooler don't seem to have the shudder problems like the FJ does.

Many folks now change it sooner than that recommendation to avoid any damage or excessive wear that may occur from using old fluid that no longer protects the parts. Some wait too long, or buy a vehicle that has high miles and even though they change out all of the fluid, the damage/wear is already present and the fluid change can't help their problem. But changing the fluid itself is not causing the problem.

That being said, many folks begin to get a transmission shudder with higher miles and then do a full fluid change and the shudder is immediately gone and stays gone. Their old fluid was no longer able to do it's job.

Changing out all or part of the fluid via the DIY drain method isn't harmful. Not changing it is.

You can change it out partially by a pan drain only, or changing it out all at once. But adding 1/3 new fluid to 2/3 worn out fluid results in still having partially worn out fluid.

If you do this at regular intervals, you'll eventually have a majority of clean fluid with proper lubricants. Or you can do it all at once.


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