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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I don't like making these newbie posts but I need help with the TRD skid plate(PTR60-89190) install. I searched around and found some folks having problems with the rear bolts which they solved by tapping the threads. However, I am having a problem with the passenger rear bolt going in at an angle(see pic). I've tried for a few hours uninstalling and reinstalling with the same issue. I had to use two jack stands to help prop the skid plate up..was afraid of it falling on my face:surprise. Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone experienced this? I do have a 3" lift with diff drop kit (shop installed). I don't know if the lift/diff drop kit is causing the issue?

Attached picture of the passenger rear bolt. The two front bolts seem to go on just fine. The driver side rear bolt seems to have some resistance, but it is flush. Any guidance is appreciated!
 

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That does look askew. I had an issue installing mine as the supplied rear bolts were too long. Had to reuse the rear bolts from the stock plate. They fit fine. I have never seen this before. Keep us posted on your solution.
 

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I don't like making these newbie posts but I need help with the TRD skid plate(PTR60-89190) install. I searched around and found some folks having problems with the rear bolts which they solved by tapping the threads. However, I am having a problem with the passenger rear bolt going in at an angle(see pic). I've tried for a few hours uninstalling and reinstalling with the same issue. I had to use two jack stands to help prop the skid plate up..was afraid of it falling on my face:surprise. Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone experienced this? I do have a 3" lift with diff drop kit (shop installed). I don't know if the lift/diff drop kit is causing the issue?

Attached picture of the passenger rear bolt. The two front bolts seem to go on just fine. The driver side rear bolt seems to have some resistance, but it is flush. Any guidance is appreciated!


Are you using the spacers in the rear?


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Regarding the bolt "going in at an angle", there are several possible causes.

First, pull the skid plate off and look at the frame material around the weld nut location. Is it deformed at all, which would put the nut at an angle, and therefore cause the bolt to be at a slight angle when it is properly threaded into the nut (e.g. not cross-threaded)? If the previous skid plate took a solid hit close to the bolt, it could have caused some local deformation around the nut, which "tilted" the nut and now makes the bolt slightly angled.

Does the bolt thread "cleanly" into the nut, without any apparent binding or excess friction?

Are the threads on the bolt in perfect condition, no signs of deformation of any kind?

If there is no deformation around the nut, and a NEW bolt doesn't cleanly thread into the nut without the skid plate present, carefully "chase" the threads in the nut to clean out any debris and re-form the threads into the correct V-profile.

If the nut threads are clean and undeformed, a new bolt should easily thread in by hand.
 

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I installed a TRD skid plate on mine a few weeks ago...I read all the posts about the rear bolts being too long so I went to Home Depot to get some shorter ones to get prepared...in the end I didn't need them. I read that if you have rust or corrosion the bolts might be tight, but can go through as indicated on the skid plate instructions if you persevere. I did lube the bolts up nicely prior to screwing in, with silicone paste...see pic...

IMG_1649.jpg

Here's 2 sets of alternative screws, from Home Depot if you need them and can't use the long ones that came with the skid plate...
 

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I did have the same problem with my FJ. After the lift was installed, with a diff drop, one bolt for the TRD plate (I have a 2007) just would not line up with all the spacers (both the factory TRD plate spacers, and the spacers with the diff drop kit for the plate) After a few years of running it without the one spacer (no issues) and a couple of tries removing everything and putting it all back when I changed all fluids, I still had the same alignment issue. Last month I replaced my CV axles, and with boot upgrades on each end, I removed the diff drop kit, and everything went in place fine using factory spacers only. Like others have said, you should clean out the mounting holes if they went for years unused. I put a small dab of anti-seize on all these bolts to make them easier to remove for diff/transfer case fluid changes.
 

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This is interesting as I have 2010 that I put the TRD skid plate on and I am running a diff drop. Everything fit together nicely.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
This is interesting as I have 2010 that I put the TRD skid plate on and I am running a diff drop. Everything fit together nicely.
Interesting. Would you happen to remember the part number of yours? I have seen two part numbers.
The one I have is PTR60-89190. I have also seen PT938-00140.
How many inches is your lift?
 

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Interesting. Would you happen to remember the part number of yours? I have seen two part numbers.
The one I have is PTR60-89190. I have also seen PT938-00140.
How many inches is your lift?
I bought mine from a guy with a new 2014 (at the time), he was changing to something different. It was new, but no part numbers.

As I remember though I used the OEM spacers on all four bolts and it fit right up in there. I have a 3" OME lift.

 

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I used the factory rear bolts on mine two months ago instead of the supplied bolts..........no problem.
 

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Also, and this may be one of those "common knowledge" things, sometimes it helps to start the bolts but don't cinch them down until you get all of them started. That way you still have some wiggle in the parts so all the holes line up.

It might also be that the skid itself may be slightly bent. Which the above method may help. Or not. I'm having a day.

It's a way of life when working on old cars...and by "old" i mean early 1950's.
 

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Also, and this may be one of those "common knowledge" things, sometimes it helps to start the bolts but don't cinch them down until you get all of them started. That way you still have some wiggle in the parts so all the holes line up.

It might also be that the skid itself may be slightly bent. Which the above method may help. Or not. I'm having a day.

It's a way of life when working on old cars...and by "old" i mean early 1950's.


You have a point about the actual skid plate being the problem. I am on my 3rd set of plates for that reason. I would venture to say if painted plates still have paint on them this would not be the problem. Leaving bolts loose is also smart idea


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