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Discussion Starter #282
Ignition coil troubleshooting overview sparkplug

Best explanation I have found.
@8:54 is the troubleshooting overview but the rest of it was great info
 

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Discussion Starter #283
Knock Sensor removal instructions

Found this for the knock sensor removal.

OMG if this is what it takes?
http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/data/ileaf/06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/00500810.pdf

Take a quick glance at this thread also LOL! Sounds like a **** show.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2013-4-0-knock-sensor-location.434681/

Also I'm gonna give these a try as my parking sensors are pooched.
If this doesn't work I'm only out $20 (instead of the $110 per side) and if it fails I'm gonna delete the parking sensors and go with a backup camera\dashcam system that's a clean add a fuse install and good to have anyhow.
With an add the circuit and the rear tire carrier setup by this forum member. Don't really care if the parking sensor works or not.

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/interior-exterior-visual-tech/203882-custom-bezel-spare-tire-mounted-backup-camera.html
 

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Hey silk if the boots on the coil are swelled it's from the oil being on them. I don't know if it's possible with these but some you can buy new boots for the coil and keep the factory coil. I doubt you're having any ignition problems because you would be throwing misfire codes or some sort of primary/secondary ignition codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #285 (Edited)
Hey silk if the boots on the coil are swelled it's from the oil being on them. I don't know if it's possible with these but some you can buy new boots for the coil and keep the factory coil. I doubt you're having any ignition problems because you would be throwing misfire codes or some sort of primary/secondary ignition codes.
Thanks for the heads up. It is... When I did the plugs a couple weeks ago?
One of them boots popped off easily. Too easily Trying to do this on the cheap before I drop $60 per ignition coil for one denso branded one.

So today I headed down to OReillys and picked up 3 of them for about $8 each

The code I get is a P0300 code (CORRECTION P0333) - Knock sensor in bank 2 which I believe is the one on the driver side. Coincidentally that is the side that had the excessive oil in the spark plug well. Hoping that is caused by a misfire (there's oil in the sparkplug well) but I'm not hopeful. Doing the easier **** first before I have to put a few days aside to dig deep into the engine.

Luckily I have an old high school friend that got back in touch with me after literally decades since we last spoke.
He's a wealth of knowledge when it comes to auto mechanics and he'e been wrenching for years. Just spoke with him today and he's ok with helping point me in the right direction if I get stuck.
 

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I didn't see a P0300 code, just the P0333, if you have a P0300 - P0306 code they are misfire codes, 300 being a random misfire and 301-306 being each individual cylinder misfire. If you have any of these repair them first(coils or boots) clear the codes and see if they don't reset. If they do move on to other codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #287 (Edited)
I didn't see a P0300 code, just the P0333, if you have a P0300 - P0306 code they are misfire codes, 300 being a random misfire and 301-306 being each individual cylinder misfire. If you have any of these repair them first(coils or boots) clear the codes and see if they don't reset. If they do move on to other codes.
FFS! My mistake. It is consistently a P0333 so I am hoping it's because of all the stupid extra engine oil from my lack of skills. Or "developing" skills LOL!
I am also hoping that what little oil is left in the spark plug wells will seep back down to the nether regions where it is supposed to be in the first place.

Thanks for the feedback. Helps me know I am somewhat on the correct path.

With my luck it's gonna be the knock sensor. The stupidest **** happens to me all the time.

Example: Had to renew my insurance which is usually a 10 minute procedure here in Vancouver but because its me? the whole process was dragged out right from the start. So many problems but I'll save you from all the details.

Start here.... The main office of the insurance co. converted their database so most of my information was botched (apparently only 10% of all clients had this issue) LUCKY ME! This also meant that they had to give me new plates but because the truck had mine and my wife's name on it both of us had to be present. Had to wait for her to drive out to the insurance place. Wife arrives and they have to call the main office meaning waiting in a queue on the phone. 15 more minutes. Finally get thru and the agent on the other end can't help us because..... The person knows me. WTF?!??!!? Some sort of bull**** conflict of interest rule that they have.
So back in the queue we go. Another 15 minutes. If I remember correctly the whole thing took an hour 15.
Insurance person apologizes but it's no big deal and I tell her don't worry this **** only happens to me. "It's not u it's me"
 

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Try to get something in the plug hole to get the oil out or the new boots will be damaged too. Also monitor the cylinders with the oil in the holes after you're done because it could be the seals around the plug holes leaking oil into them(this is my guess), if this is the case you'll need valve cover gaskets replaced and they'll have the spark plug tube seals included in them.
 

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Discussion Starter #289
Try to get something in the plug hole to get the oil out or the new boots will be damaged too. Also monitor the cylinders with the oil in the holes after you're done because it could be the seals around the plug holes leaking oil into them(this is my guess), if this is the case you'll need valve cover gaskets replaced and they'll have the spark plug tube seals included in them.

Yup that's gonna be next steps. ACK!

Thanks again. Much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #290 (Edited)
2018 Summer Diff Rust work

Summer is almost over. I did no camping. Waited til August to go but our Province then broke some records for number of forest fires. So much smoke. This is the 2nd year the crazy smoke show happened and we are definitely going to adjust our camping plans next year.

Usually we wait til Aug cuz the lakes will warm up by then otherwise it's too chilly for swimming. Winter snow runoff and all... BUT forest fires in Aug are so consistent now that July will have to be the time to go otherwise no camping will happen, apparently.

Here is the only thing I got up to this summer work wise on the FJ. See pics
May dig in to take a look at the wiring harness for rat damage b4 winter rolls in.

For the diff I used some rust converter and a bunch of wire brush and angle grinder tools from Harbor Freight to get the diff\axle to the point where there was no longer flakes of rust falling off.

OH yeah I got some $7 parking sensors from China. LOL! Gonna throw one of those in to see if it resolves my issues. If it fails? Don't really care. Not too much of a hit dollar wise.

Will throw up some pics when I get that done. Hopefully b4 the rain arrives.
 

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Discussion Starter #291 (Edited)
Finally bit the bullet after a 1.5 yrs of no 5th gear and a P0033 Code. Wanted to tackle myself but after some research found that it's a long and super involved process. Also a significant factor was that insurance will cover it IF it is rodent damage on the wiring harness.
If it isn't and the FJ is taken apart, I'm on the hook for $1500 instead of the $300 deductible.
Can't tell you what a relief it was when the service guy called and gave me the good news.
I live next to a far and have seen rodents running around at night but you still never know until it's confirmed.

P0333 is gone and I was code free for a few hours, but I have a P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1 error now. Gonna clean the O2 sensors and maybe get around to the MAF cleanup as well. See if it makes a diff. It's fairly sporadic anyhow.

Next on the agenda is sway bar bushings and replacing a reverse sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #292
HELP WITH THIS PLEASE! Error Code P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1

Based on the error's reference to Bank 1 and the following details in the diagram Bank 1 is the passenger or RIGHT side.

On the following Rock Auto links Under Daily Driver Denso Part #2344260 and #2344261
Apparently the Denso brand downstream sensors are not interchangeable and yet when you look at the Delphi brand the same part can be used for either left or right. Confusing as [email protected]
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1607108&cc=1433267&jsn=15
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1606676&cc=1433267&jsn=16

So... Best guess is I get the Denso right side specific downstream part #2344260 and the Upstream sensor is Denso is part# 2349051. Just that it would suck to have to return it by mail. Sound right?

I'm gonna try doing a cleanup of the sensors first though as this error is sporadic.
 

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Discussion Starter #293 (Edited)
Replaced Sway bar bushing and my reverse sensors from China which of course did not work. What do you expect for $7 each. But the plan was to to get new ones cuz the old one turned white and now it looks o.k. "aesthetics" Fall back plan was to delete the button and install a rear view mirror dash cam with a camera on the back tire if this failed.

Again the cost was $104 per sensor and on Amazon they go for about $49 to $70
https://www.amazon.com/CHORTAU-Waterproof-Recording-Parking-Monitor/dp/B07NY2MHCD/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dash+cam+rear+mirror&qid=1553478816&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Can't budge the o2 sensor so its gonna be a couple days of heavy golden showers of wd40 before I tackle it again. May invest in a 7/8's o2 socket. Plan on cleaning the downstream one before investing in a new one. If that fails then upstream clean and if that fails then cat converter... in order of financial impact.
 

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why would spraying WD40 help?

When faced with a stuck fastener, use a penetrating oil, there are several for sale at the auto parts store, also a 50/50% mix of acetone and ATF works very well too, but the pre-packaged aerosol is usually easiest to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #295 (Edited)
Yeah didn't mention that I have that concoction ready to go as well. Funny thing is I have found both work the same for me and PB Blaster was not much different... From my success and failures it more has to do with patience and the torch. When you get stuck and you can feel the bolt bend... stop and go the other way and throw more wd or pb blaster or the acetone atf mix in. Do not use a long ratchet! You want to feel the resistance before and a long ratchet is a guarantee for me to have to drill and rethread. Any spray seems to move all that grit and rust in the threads around and out of the way.

Also gonna try a torch on it... The torch is really the end all be all. But it's a tight space so safety for me is a concern. I'm clumsy as **** in tight spaces.

Lastly I did the research and the cheapest I could find an O2 sensor is $47 for the downstream followed by $120 for the upstream and after all that it could still be the cat itself for a nice juicy $291! Total $459.00 U.S. or $616 Canadian funds.

So I said **** that and I am gonna go with the Spark Plug non fouler solution. Dorman Part# 42009 $6.59

Full report when I get er done. If I can get rid of that error code and eliminate having to spend the extra 2 zeroes? That's gonna be gold!
 

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why would spraying WD40 help?

When faced with a stuck fastener, use a penetrating oil, there are several for sale at the auto parts store, also a 50/50% mix of acetone and ATF works very well too, but the pre-packaged aerosol is usually easiest to use.
Seeing as the metal crush-washer seal used on the air-fuel and oxygen sensors is OUTBOARD of the threads, just like on a spark plug, no amount of "soaking" with WD-40, PB Blaster, or home-brew acetone/oil mixtures will ever penetrate into the threads.

It CAN help if you are able to unscrew the sensor by 1/4 turn or more, and then find that it starts to bind or seizes. In this case, the metal-to-metal seal has been broken, and lubricant will now be able to penetrate into the threads. Repeated clockwise/counterclockwise rotation of the sensor, along with plenty of penetrating lube and some heat from a propane torch will almost always get it out without damaging the female threads.

And of course make sure you work a little anti-seize into the threads of the new sensor before installation to make it easier to remove another 100K miles from now.
 

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Discussion Starter #297
Yup, this fits my experience with the worst of seized bolts. 99 Jeep XJ bolts for the shocks... sheared all of them but one and used up an entire can of PB blaster. I'm gonna get a O2 socket on it when it's hot from driving and see if that heat makes a diff and if not it's torch time. So many trips to Harbour Freight and Canadian Tire :)

Seeing as the metal crush-washer seal used on the air-fuel and oxygen sensors is OUTBOARD of the threads, just like on a spark plug, no amount of "soaking" with WD-40, PB Blaster, or home-brew acetone/oil mixtures will ever penetrate into the threads.

It CAN help if you are able to unscrew the sensor by 1/4 turn or more, and then find that it seizes. In this case, the metal-to-metal seal has been broken, and lubricant will now be able to penetrate into the threads. Repeated clockwise/counterclockwise rotation of the sensor, along with plenty of penetrating lube and some heat from a propane torch will almost always get it out without damaging the female threads.

And of course make sure you work a little anti-seize into the threads of the new sensor before installation to make it easier to remove another 100K miles from now.
 

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Yup, this fits my experience with the worst of seized bolts. 99 Jeep XJ bolts for the shocks... sheared all of them but one and used up an entire can of PB blaster. I'm gonna get a O2 socket on it when it's hot from driving and see if that heat makes a diff and if not it's torch time. So many trips to Harbour Freight and Canadian Tire :)
Hot-from-driving is not the same as heating the bung with a torch while the rest of the exhaust system is cold.

Hot-from-driving means everything is essentially at the same temperature, and both the bung and the sensor body are at about the same temperature, and both of them are slightly expanded.

With a cold exhaust system, quickly heating the bung can expand it slightly relative to the cooler sensor body, and can help reduce the interference-fit.

Another trick is to use a long straight punch and ball-pein hammer to sharply rap the sides of the bung; the "shock" can help break up corrosion between the parts or expand the bung ever so slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter #299
Good information, I'll try that. Also, 2 words I enjoy BUNG and BALL PEEN.
Ok that's next weekends work. Thanks for the feedback brother!

Hot-from-driving is not the same as heating the bung with a torch while the rest of the exhaust system is cold.

Hot-from-driving means everything is essentially at the same temperature, and both the bung and the sensor body are at about the same temperature, and both of them are slightly expanded.

With a cold exhaust system, quickly heating the bung can expand it slightly relative to the cooler sensor body, and can help reduce the interference-fit.

Another trick is to use a long straight punch and ball-pein hammer to sharply rap the sides of the bung; the "shock" can help break up corrosion between the parts or expand the bung ever so slightly.
 

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Good information, I'll try that. Also, 2 words I enjoy BUNG and BALL PEEN.
Ok that's next weekends work. Thanks for the feedback brother!
Both BALL PEIN and BALL PEEN are valid spellings, PEIN is traditional and more commonly used by old-school tool manufacturers, PEEN seems to be more a millennial thing.

And of course, a bung has always been a bung.
 
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