Thanks for the heads up. It is... When I did the plugs a couple weeks ago?Hey silk if the boots on the coil are swelled it's from the oil being on them. I don't know if it's possible with these but some you can buy new boots for the coil and keep the factory coil. I doubt you're having any ignition problems because you would be throwing misfire codes or some sort of primary/secondary ignition codes.
FFS! My mistake. It is consistently a P0333 so I am hoping it's because of all the stupid extra engine oil from my lack of skills. Or "developing" skills LOL!I didn't see a P0300 code, just the P0333, if you have a P0300 - P0306 code they are misfire codes, 300 being a random misfire and 301-306 being each individual cylinder misfire. If you have any of these repair them first(coils or boots) clear the codes and see if they don't reset. If they do move on to other codes.
Try to get something in the plug hole to get the oil out or the new boots will be damaged too. Also monitor the cylinders with the oil in the holes after you're done because it could be the seals around the plug holes leaking oil into them(this is my guess), if this is the case you'll need valve cover gaskets replaced and they'll have the spark plug tube seals included in them.
Seeing as the metal crush-washer seal used on the air-fuel and oxygen sensors is OUTBOARD of the threads, just like on a spark plug, no amount of "soaking" with WD-40, PB Blaster, or home-brew acetone/oil mixtures will ever penetrate into the threads.why would spraying WD40 help?
When faced with a stuck fastener, use a penetrating oil, there are several for sale at the auto parts store, also a 50/50% mix of acetone and ATF works very well too, but the pre-packaged aerosol is usually easiest to use.
Seeing as the metal crush-washer seal used on the air-fuel and oxygen sensors is OUTBOARD of the threads, just like on a spark plug, no amount of "soaking" with WD-40, PB Blaster, or home-brew acetone/oil mixtures will ever penetrate into the threads.
It CAN help if you are able to unscrew the sensor by 1/4 turn or more, and then find that it seizes. In this case, the metal-to-metal seal has been broken, and lubricant will now be able to penetrate into the threads. Repeated clockwise/counterclockwise rotation of the sensor, along with plenty of penetrating lube and some heat from a propane torch will almost always get it out without damaging the female threads.
And of course make sure you work a little anti-seize into the threads of the new sensor before installation to make it easier to remove another 100K miles from now.
Hot-from-driving is not the same as heating the bung with a torch while the rest of the exhaust system is cold.Yup, this fits my experience with the worst of seized bolts. 99 Jeep XJ bolts for the shocks... sheared all of them but one and used up an entire can of PB blaster. I'm gonna get a O2 socket on it when it's hot from driving and see if that heat makes a diff and if not it's torch time. So many trips to Harbour Freight and Canadian Tire
Hot-from-driving is not the same as heating the bung with a torch while the rest of the exhaust system is cold.
Hot-from-driving means everything is essentially at the same temperature, and both the bung and the sensor body are at about the same temperature, and both of them are slightly expanded.
With a cold exhaust system, quickly heating the bung can expand it slightly relative to the cooler sensor body, and can help reduce the interference-fit.
Another trick is to use a long straight punch and ball-pein hammer to sharply rap the sides of the bung; the "shock" can help break up corrosion between the parts or expand the bung ever so slightly.
Both BALL PEIN and BALL PEEN are valid spellings, PEIN is traditional and more commonly used by old-school tool manufacturers, PEEN seems to be more a millennial thing.Good information, I'll try that. Also, 2 words I enjoy BUNG and BALL PEEN.
Ok that's next weekends work. Thanks for the feedback brother!