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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've tried to search, and haven't found much. I know about the Rockjock 60 and the 9" options, but wanted to search a Toyota possibility. Plus, I see Allpro's link to their Rockjock is no longer working.

The Tundra 10.5" axle is super stout, and I would say it is much stronger than either of the other options. Ruffstuff makes a fabricated housing already, Nitro Gear makes 4:88 gears (which is what I already run), and ARB makes an air locker.
I have also heard that the Tundra wheel sensors are the same as the FJ's, but I can't confirm.

The only real issues I see are width and lug pattern. Both can be solved with custom axles.
The other issue is cost.
Other options may be cheaper, and I know that, so please don't make this a "you should use THIS axle instead" thread.

I'm just sick of busting my ring and pinion. I want to fix it once and for all.

I do a lot of wheeling and camping, as well as a lot of towing. My travel trailer weighs just under 5000lbs. I want to get a new Tundra for daily driving and towing, but I'm at least a year away from that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So you are busting Nitro gears? Multiple sets!?
I have Nitro 4:88's in the front. They are fine.
I have busted the stock rear a long time ago, and a few sets of 4:56's in the past, and now have a chipped tooth in the rear 4:88. I think it was a Yukon gearset.

I don't have a heavy foot, but I am running 37's, and I use it a LOT.
 

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I don't see a reason why a tundra axle wouldn't work. However, to make it work, you would need to narrow it, add fj suspension brackets, get custom length axle shafts, new wheels or wheel adapters (you can't change to the 6 bolt pattern and keep the tundra brakes). As for the wheel speed sensors, I would keep the tundra wheel bearings and speed sensors since they should plug right in (if not, I would just change the fj plug to the tundra plug, as the computer shouldn't be able to tell the difference)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't see a reason why a tundra axle wouldn't work. However, to make it work, you would need to narrow it, add fj suspension brackets, get custom length axle shafts, new wheels or wheel adapters (you can't change to the 6 bolt pattern and keep the tundra brakes). As for the wheel speed sensors, I would keep the tundra wheel bearings and speed sensors since they should plug right in (if not, I would just change the fj plug to the tundra plug, as the computer shouldn't be able to tell the difference)
I don't doubt that it can be done. I'm just looking to see if it HAS been done. Learn from other's experiences and all.

I'm not a stranger to fabrication. I know what it will take. I'm just looking for possible tips and tricks from someone who's actually done it already.
 

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Could you source a newer then 2007 rear FJ axle with the larger ring gear? I would think that that would be a far more financially savvy choice and it would be pretty much a plug and play. Try to find a front totalled FJ and go from there.
 

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I have seen an FJ with a Ford 9". Something about a Ford 9" in an FJ appeals to me.. That 1970...Ford....Bronco...thing

I guess Rockjock uses a Ford 9" :rocker: I thing the one I saw was a self installed Ford 9", non Rockjock version. Old school!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Could you source a newer then 2007 rear FJ axle with the larger ring gear? I would think that that would be a far more financially savvy choice and it would be pretty much a plug and play. Try to find a front totalled FJ and go from there.
This option would cost almost the same, with virtually no strength advantage. The difference is so small, i wouldnt even consider it an 'upgrade'.

For now, i have ordered yet another gearset, as this is my daily driver.

Im now trying to decide on upgrading the rear axle, or buy a new Tundra as a daily driver, and just keep the Cruiser as a weekend warrior.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have seen an FJ with a Ford 9". Something about a Ford 9" in an FJ appeals to me.. That 1970...Ford....Bronco...thing

I guess Rockjock uses a Ford 9" :rocker: I thing the one I saw was a self installed Ford 9", non Rockjock version. Old school!
The Rockjock 60 uses a 10" Dana 60 ring and pinion. Not a 9" Ford.
Its also not a removable 3rd style, like the Toyota and ford 9".
Plus it rides on the weaker coast side of the gear, since its a high pinion.


I just cant make up my mind!!! :crying
 

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I can't help you with the Tundra axle but there is a member in our club who has the rockjock and beats on it pretty hard. He loves it.
I'm sure if you can do some/all of the fabrication then the Tundra axle would be great. Those things are built for towing.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ya. The Tundra option is definately the strongest out of the three.
I think it would be possible to use the 35 spline axle shafts from the Rockjock kit, get the ARB with the optional 35 spline (instead of the factory 36 spline) side gears, and then use the FJ Cruiser bearing pockets on the fabricated housing. Then welding on the link brackets is a piece of cake.
I just need to track down a Tundra 3rd for a reasonable price....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The bonus with replacing the rear axle would be that i could put the Cruiser axle in my LWB Samurai. It already has Toyota axles and an Elocker in the front, but i would gain another Elocker for the rear, as well as disc brakes. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Update:

I’ve been driving the truck with Nitro 4:88’s since this last post, and has been great.
Unfortunately, I broke them this last weekend.

Its time to actually do this axle swap.

Doing some quick research, I’m not seeing very many new options. Still the Diamond, Rockjock, and Ford 9”.

Diamond makes a bolt-in 9.5” option, which basically re-uses everything but the housing and the 3rd. They make a Tundra 10.5” housing, but nothing that is bolt in.

Are there any other new options out there? Ones to stay away from? I no longer drive this as a daily driver, since I got my Tundra.
I’m also collecting parts for a front solid axle swap, too.


 

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Update:

I’ve been driving the truck with Nitro 4:88’s since this last post, and has been great.
Unfortunately, I broke them this last weekend.

Its time to actually do this axle swap.

Doing some quick research, I’m not seeing very many new options. Still the Diamond, Rockjock, and Ford 9”.

Diamond makes a bolt-in 9.5” option, which basically re-uses everything but the housing and the 3rd. They make a Tundra 10.5” housing, but nothing that is bolt in.

Are there any other new options out there? Ones to stay away from? I no longer drive this as a daily driver, since I got my Tundra.
I’m also collecting parts for a front solid axle swap, too.


Go 9.5 full floater. I run the 9.5 front and rear on my Hilux. Crawling with 40's and nothing broke yet.
 

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I would not go 9.5 full float. :lol: Well, I would if I could....

Long story short I waited 1.5 years for this option from Diamond and finally cancelled my order. Yes, I had an order with them for 1.5 years. I will never buy an axle from Diamond unless it's ready to ship that moment. Their lack of scheduling is engrained in their business structure. And the Diamond 9.5 semi float is not a great option because it uses stock axle shafts and therefore you cannot make it any wider than the factory housing. Not much of an upgrade IMO...

I suppose you could go with a 9.5 full float that drops the wheel speed sensors, but say goodbye to A-trac and speedometer. I bet they could build a semi-float 10.5 with 36 spline shafts but that would be overkill IMO and you may run into some fitment issues. And its not likely Diamond will get it built in a timely manner.

My brother and I both went with the ECGS Dana 60. 70" WMS to WMS and 35 spline shafts. Its a better option than the Currie 60 for the price IMO. Curries Ford 9 is a good option still too.
https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/transmissions-transfer-cases-traction-aids/653178-fj-cruiser-dana-60-ecgs-east-coast-gear-supply.html

I'm sure you already know most of this: https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/4x4-off-road-tech/676602-rear-differential-replacement-guide.html

Let me know if you have any questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Go 9.5 full floater. I run the 9.5 front and rear on my Hilux. Crawling with 40's and nothing broke yet.
The problem with the full floater is you lose the wheel speed sensors. You lose ABS, VSC, A-TRAC, and will forevermore have the check engine light on the dash.
Granted, they aren’t really needed, but the constant check engine light is a deal breaker for me. Especially with vehicle inspections getting more and more strict, I could see in the near future, a fail if any granny control is not functional.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I would not go 9.5 full float. :lol: Well, I would if I could....

Long story short I waited 1.5 years for this option from Diamond and finally cancelled my order. Yes, I had an order with them for 1.5 years. I will never buy an axle from Diamond unless it's ready to ship that moment. Their lack of scheduling is engrained in their business structure. And the Diamond 9.5 semi float is not a great option because it uses stock axle shafts and therefore you cannot make it any wider than the factory housing. Not much of an upgrade IMO...

I suppose you could go with a 9.5 full float that drops the wheel speed sensors, but say goodbye to A-trac and speedometer. I bet they could build a semi-float 10.5 with 36 spline shafts but that would be overkill IMO and you may run into some fitment issues. And its not likely Diamond will get it built in a timely manner.

My brother and I both went with the ECGS Dana 60. 70" WMS to WMS and 35 spline shafts. Its a better option than the Currie 60 for the price IMO. Curries Ford 9 is a good option still too.
https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/transmissions-transfer-cases-traction-aids/653178-fj-cruiser-dana-60-ecgs-east-coast-gear-supply.html

I'm sure you already know most of this: https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/4x4-off-road-tech/676602-rear-differential-replacement-guide.html

Let me know if you have any questions.
Diamond ‘could’ make a 10.5” axle, but would be quite a bit more $$$ than the already made 9.5”.

The 9” only has a 4.86 ratio. My front is 4.88. Not a big difference, I know. But my truck is a 6 speed manual, and all wheel drive. That difference will add up on the highway.

Stock width housing would work for me. I won’t be going any bigger than 37’s, as I have them fitting perfectly for how I wheel the truck.

Will look in to the ECGS 60....
 

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The 10.5 semi float is actually similar in price to 9.5 full float. But another reason to avoid toy axles is ECGS doesn't get cores often for the 9.5 (and I'm assuming 10.5 as well) so that is why they don't build them. While its convenient to think you can pick up a third whenever needed that may not be the easiest thing to do.

Edit: didn't read your previous post about the sensors...
Just figure out first if you want to keep the wheel speed sensors. I'm not sure 100% on what functions you will lose and not be able to work around. But if you dont mind loosing them you could go with a ruffstuff or spidertrax housing.

For me I need the extra rear width to keep the 37's out of the inner wheel wells with LT suspension and match front long travel width.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The 10.5 semi float is actually similar in price to 9.5 full float. But another reason to avoid toy axles is ECGS doesn't get cores often for the 9.5 (and I'm assuming 10.5 as well) so that is why they don't build them. While its convenient to think you can pick up a third whenever needed that may not be the easiest thing to do.

Edit: didn't read your previous post about the sensors...
Just figure out first if you want to keep the wheel speed sensors. I'm not sure 100% on what functions you will lose and not be able to work around. But if you dont mind loosing them you could go with a ruffstuff or spidertrax housing.

For me I need the extra rear width to keep the 37's out of the inner wheel wells with LT suspension and match front long travel width.
Losing the wheel speed sensors is the biggest reason I haven’t done a front SAS yet. Keeping the sensors is almost mandatory for me. I don’t need crazy flex. I’m after strength and reliability. I use the truck more for camping now. I used to wheel it harder than I do now, but I’m getting too old for that. Besides, I have other trucks for that.
 
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