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norm356
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3 days ago · #21
Re: Need help on frame compatibility
"really hard to find one here up in the new England area"

Since your goal is to eliminate the rust, perhaps expand your search for a rust free frame to portions of the country without so much rust, like the Southwest US, and, surprisingly, the eastern Washington, western Montana areas are also remarkably rust free regions, and have tons of Toyota trucks.

shipping goes up, but so does the quality of what you get to start with

the problem will then become: why is a frame available from those rust free regions? Most likely it will be from a vehicle scrapped due to accident damage, making it a gamble to use because it might be bent.

Crazy thought: if frame swaps are comfortable for you, why not "swap your own frame"? That is, take yours off, have it sandblasted inside and out, then have it dip galvanized and then painted, wax coated on the inside and re-assemble? Then you know what you've got, and can make any and all repairs as you go.

The key reason why all truck frames rust is because they don't get a top coat, they only get a primer coat from the factory (all makers). The kind of primer the industry uses can't bond to welds, or to sharp edges, very well. Fine for body shells (note how the underside of your shell, which also only has primer on it, hasn't any rust), but crummy for truck frames, with lots of stitch welds and edges. The steel is thick, so the rust is usually only cosmetic (for the 1st 10 years, or so). The Big3 truck frames simply rust brown after a year or two. Us Toyota customers get very antsy about it due to the Taco issue that had happened.

Putting a good top coat onto your frame will make a world of difference (after removing the rust that is already there).

N
BEASTWAGEN
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Join: Aug 2016
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3 days ago · #22
Re: Need help on frame compatibility
norm356 said:
Original Post
"really hard to find one here up in the new England area"

Since your goal is to eliminate the rust, perhaps expand your search for a rust free frame to portions of the country without so much rust, like the Southwest US, and, surprisingly, the eastern Washington, western Montana areas are also remarkably rust free regions, and have tons of Toyota trucks.

shipping goes up, but so does the quality of what you get to start with

the problem will then become: why is a frame available from those rust free regions? Most likely it will be from a vehicle scrapped due to accident damage, making it a gamble to use because it might be bent.

Crazy thought: if frame swaps are comfortable for you, why not "swap your own frame"? That is, take yours off, have it sandblasted inside and out, then have it dip galvanized and then painted, wax coated on the inside and re-assemble? Then you know what you've got, and can make any and all repairs as you go.

The key reason why all truck frames rust is because they don't get a top coat, they only get a primer coat from the factory (all makers). The kind of primer the industry uses can't bond to welds, or to sharp edges, very well. Fine for body shells (note how the underside of your shell, which also only has primer on it, hasn't any rust), but crummy for truck frames, with lots of stitch welds and edges. The steel is thick, so the rust is usually only cosmetic (for the 1st 10 years, or so). The Big3 truck frames simply rust brown after a year or two. Us Toyota customers get very antsy about it due to the Taco issue that had happened.

Putting a good top coat onto your frame will make a world of difference (after removing the rust that is already there).

N
Buy a frame from a burner. The fire cannot get hot enough to damage the frame, and it hasnt been in an accident. That's a secret body shop trick. I have a perfectly good rolling chassis that's undamaged sitting at our shop, but a member here from Nebraska has dibs since we may be working on their vehicle soon.

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Rudy Barr
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3 days ago · #23 @BEASTWAGEN bummer i would got that frame in a heart beat. You know of any place with a frame ill be intrested as a roller as well or if you get another let me know
Rudy Barr
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2 days ago · #24
So i found a 2007 frame in New Mexico now the mission is getting it shipped its not in a junk yard so i guess ill have to drive there and rent a trailer to pick it up

Rudy Barr
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37 minutes ago · #25
So i found more information about that 2011 frame fitting a 2007 fj. I talked to toyota techs here around town and a few very knowledgeable slavage yard guys. They told me that the frame is basically the same platform frame the difference is that the 2010 to 2014 frame are much more re enforced in the front frame that are welded mount way in the front were in the 2007 to 2009 there are bolted one and must of the time rot out that are few holes on the 2007 to 2009 frame that dont exist on the 2010 to 2014 not effecting bolting on thing is jusy strength the frame more. The front suspension is identical only difference in the lower control arm i just got to run 2010 to 2014 lower control arme the upper controls are all the same knuckles are all the same cv axles the same rank and pinion the same. Rear is the same as well.

Ok about the motor and trans i know a few you guy had a bit of a concern about that i talked to a very knowledgeable toyota tech at the dealer and junkyard owner which i know very well that have told me yes the motor is differ completely redesigned top end of the engine but bottom end the the block is the same 1GR-FE design it take the same motor mount are the 2007 to 2009 fj i shouldnt have any issues or mods to be done because im useing my same body. You will have issues puting a newer 4.0 engine to the older fj cruiser because of the sensor location on the engine bay.

The transmission crossmember is different ill just have un bolt it and bolt the one off my 2007

The swap should be stright foward.

If any guys here have concerns or insight let me know.
 

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Please disregard the 1st message I wrote I copy and pasted the whole section by accident here is what I want to paste

So i found more information about that 2011 frame fitting a 2007 fj. I talked to toyota techs here around town and a few very knowledgeable slavage yard guys. They told me that the frame is basically the same platform frame the difference is that the 2010 to 2014 frame are much more re enforced in the front frame that are welded mount way in the front were in the 2007 to 2009 there are bolted one and must of the time rot out that are few holes on the 2007 to 2009 frame that dont exist on the 2010 to 2014 not effecting bolting on thing is jusy strength the frame more. The front suspension is identical only difference in the lower control arm i just got to run 2010 to 2014 lower control arme the upper controls are all the same knuckles are all the same cv axles the same rank and pinion the same. Rear is the same as well.

Ok about the motor and trans i know a few you guy had a bit of a concern about that i talked to a very knowledgeable toyota tech at the dealer and junkyard owner which i know very well that have told me yes the motor is differ completely redesigned top end of the engine but bottom end the the block is the same 1GR-FE design it take the same motor mount are the 2007 to 2009 fj i shouldnt have any issues or mods to be done because im useing my same body. You will have issues puting a newer 4.0 engine to the older fj cruiser because of the sensor location on the engine bay.

The transmission crossmember is different ill just have un bolt it and bolt the one off my 2007

The swap should be stright foward.

If any guys here have concerns or insight let me know.
 

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I would suggest you lay some steering parts 07-09 /10-14 side by side . post pics and then tell me they are the exact same
 

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When you talking about steering part you talking about rack, tie rods l, knuckles? Because you are ive call around the racks are the same for 2007 to 2014 the knuckles are the same 2007 to 14. The tie rod arent.
 

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Racks do interchange. Supposedly 10+ rack is an upgrade with less turns lock-to-lock than 07-09. I can attest, the front LCAs are different...easy enough to just use 10+.

I know the rear axles are different, but interchangeable as a whole, so no issue there. I found out hard way brakes dont interchange from the 8.2 to 8.0 axle :(

Otherwise it seems like it should be an easy interchange overall.
 
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