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You can upholster stuff, or at least cover it with OEM-looking fabrics. If I can, you can. It requires cans of spray on adhesive, and two types of fabric.
All of us have doohickies inside that we may wish to cover up. I found that it is easier than you think. You can cover whatever you want in this stuff as long as you pull the wrinkles out and use a lot of adhesive.
I used the foam-backed "mouse fur" for my headliner. It matched the factory headliner perfectly. The other is automotive vinyl. Both the colors I chose matched the OEM light gray.
It was $80 for 3 yards each of these two fabrics, including the spray adhesive. 3 yards of one will do an entire headliner.
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The tube on the right is for those of you considering a Scorpion Mount. This is an inexpensive polyethylene foam that is slit to get around a 1.25" steel tube.
I do not have stock numbers for these fabrics. The reason is that there are so many variations available, you will pick something out that is just right for you. There are a lot of colors that complement the FJ interior that are not neccessarily the ones I chose.
You just need to hit a serious fabric supply store, and I mean a serious one. DON'T order this stuff online. The FJ is a lot "browner" than we realize. The roof paint color is actually light beige. So are the "gray" plastic panels inside.
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Last year I had removed my factory headliner, but still needed to keep the lightness of the OEM gray interior. In these photos, the ceiling surface is the foam-backed mouse fur. The vinyl material was just used to cover the tubes.
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If you look at the covered tubes carefully you will see wrinkles. These happen because I had to cover the foam tubes while they were straight, but then had to bend them to put them over the cage tubes.
![]()
The reason that the ceiling has so many bumps is that since I chucked my whole factory headliner, I applied the mouse fur foam directly over the steel roof and support structure. It is bumpy at the extreme front and rear ends as you can see above.
At the back, I removed the door rubber from its spot on the door seam, folded the end of the fabric around the door seam and replaced the rubber on top of it. This holds the edge of the mouse fur headliner tightly in place.
This is how dark it was before. It was a frigging cave, especially in the back:
![]()
All of us have doohickies inside that we may wish to cover up. I found that it is easier than you think. You can cover whatever you want in this stuff as long as you pull the wrinkles out and use a lot of adhesive.
I used the foam-backed "mouse fur" for my headliner. It matched the factory headliner perfectly. The other is automotive vinyl. Both the colors I chose matched the OEM light gray.
It was $80 for 3 yards each of these two fabrics, including the spray adhesive. 3 yards of one will do an entire headliner.
The tube on the right is for those of you considering a Scorpion Mount. This is an inexpensive polyethylene foam that is slit to get around a 1.25" steel tube.
I do not have stock numbers for these fabrics. The reason is that there are so many variations available, you will pick something out that is just right for you. There are a lot of colors that complement the FJ interior that are not neccessarily the ones I chose.
You just need to hit a serious fabric supply store, and I mean a serious one. DON'T order this stuff online. The FJ is a lot "browner" than we realize. The roof paint color is actually light beige. So are the "gray" plastic panels inside.
Last year I had removed my factory headliner, but still needed to keep the lightness of the OEM gray interior. In these photos, the ceiling surface is the foam-backed mouse fur. The vinyl material was just used to cover the tubes.
If you look at the covered tubes carefully you will see wrinkles. These happen because I had to cover the foam tubes while they were straight, but then had to bend them to put them over the cage tubes.
The reason that the ceiling has so many bumps is that since I chucked my whole factory headliner, I applied the mouse fur foam directly over the steel roof and support structure. It is bumpy at the extreme front and rear ends as you can see above.
At the back, I removed the door rubber from its spot on the door seam, folded the end of the fabric around the door seam and replaced the rubber on top of it. This holds the edge of the mouse fur headliner tightly in place.
This is how dark it was before. It was a frigging cave, especially in the back:
But I will still air it out with out the cab cage. 
