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im curious though if you care is running weird when you change a oil visocity than recommended what should you be "hearing" or "feeling" that might be wrong if you did change and had a drastic effect on the car?

I might do that then during the super hot summers in ARizona (115 degrees or so) I might do 20w-50 then winter time frame do the 0w-30.
 

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The only time you will hear funny noises if you use too thick an oil in colder temps. Eg, a 20W-50 should NEVER be used below +10 F, though a synthetic 15W-50 like Mobil 1 is generally safe to -25 F

A synthetic 0W-40 should be ok even at -40, though if parked outside all the time and the temps are truly Arctic, a synthetic 0W-20 is far more appropriate. Just keep in mind that when I ran Mobil 1 0W-20 in my FJ, as a winter oil, I had much higher nitration and the oil actually thickened up to the 30 range

The one thing I didn't like about the dealership 5W-20 (Their complimentary oil change) or the use of Mobil 1 0W-20, is how my valvetrain went ticktickticktickticktickticktick

With Mobil 1 0W-40, and Castrol Syntec 0W-30, the valvetrain is quiet
 

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I live in Florida and use 20w50 with 1/2 quart of mystery oil and 1/2 quart of lucas motor honey and never had issues and motor stays clean and smooth
 

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I live in Florida and use 20w50 with 1/2 quart of mystery oil and 1/2 quart of lucas motor honey and never had issues and motor stays clean and smooth
20W50 and motor honey? It doesn't get that hot in FL. Try AZ and Death Valley at 115+, now that's hot.

DEWFPO
 

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What in hell is "motor honey??"

I really don't understand this preoccupation with Snake Oil. I have an '83 Ford work truck, in the family since new, and run its entire life on HD engine oils

Took the valve covers and intake off a couple of years ago. Cylinder head, rocker arms, lifter gallery, all spotless
 

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What in hell is "motor honey??"

I really don't understand this preoccupation with Snake Oil. I have an '83 Ford work truck, in the family since new, and run its entire life on HD engine oils

Took the valve covers and intake off a couple of years ago. Cylinder head, rocker arms, lifter gallery, all spotless
I believe it's like the old "STP" goop folks used to put in their engines. It appears to be about 125 wt. gear lube (looks and flows about the speed of honey) but folks put it in their engine to make it quieter, appear to seal leaky oil rings & seals and give the impression that it's protecting the engine better than the spec'd oil. I don't know.:confused:

DEWFPO
 

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I just got an email from mobil about using their oil the higher viscoity stuff vs recommendation they essentially said

that we should stick with our manufactures recommendation, but if your car is eating the oil you can go higher such as 15w-50 or so which helps in the eating of oil. I even told told them my hot climate and supercharger and still recommend manfuctures, but it WONT HURT to go to the 15w-50.




The only time you will hear funny noises if you use too thick an oil in colder temps. Eg, a 20W-50 should NEVER be used below +10 F, though a synthetic 15W-50 like Mobil 1 is generally safe to -25 F

A synthetic 0W-40 should be ok even at -40, though if parked outside all the time and the temps are truly Arctic, a synthetic 0W-20 is far more appropriate. Just keep in mind that when I ran Mobil 1 0W-20 in my FJ, as a winter oil, I had much higher nitration and the oil actually thickened up to the 30 range

The one thing I didn't like about the dealership 5W-20 (Their complimentary oil change) or the use of Mobil 1 0W-20, is how my valvetrain went ticktickticktickticktickticktick

With Mobil 1 0W-40, and Castrol Syntec 0W-30, the valvetrain is quiet
 

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I believe it's like the old "STP" goop folks used to put in their engines.
Eeeewwwwwww. No thanks

I even told told them my hot climate and supercharger and still recommend manfuctures, but it WONT HURT to go to the 15w-50.
They're so worried about CAFE here, that the mythical 2% improvement in fuel economy is all that matters.

Yet when you go to an Australian or EU oil company website, they generally recommend a 10W-40 or 15W-40 in the same motor that here calls for a 5W-30 all the time
 

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I have had my truck in tropical and some insane hot conditions since I bought it and never have thought about swapping the oil to anything other than recommended. Why take a chance? if the manufacturer says it's good and will warranty it, why mess with it? Toyotas run up into the hundred thousand miles plus. I see no benefit in second guessing that aspect.
 

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They're so worried about CAFE here, that the mythical 2% improvement in fuel economy is all that matters.

Yet when you go to an Australian or EU oil company website, they generally recommend a 10W-40 or 15W-40 in the same motor that here calls for a 5W-30 all the time
AH HA HA....your right jayman they said the 5W-30 hepls improve your fuel economy thats why its recommended though the 5W-30 provides protection the 15W-50 has extra protection in a greater stressed engine. I was reading some QandA over at mobil someone asked the same questions, but was more im depth than I was and they said the same the thing, but he went further in changing the viscoity thats where they said you will lose the 2% fuel (MPG) if switched to a higher grade.
 

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It's not that hot but I run the piss out of it and inside of my motor look brand new . Also I have a 4 runner with. V 8 and also look new inside with 80k miles and both have yet to go to shop for repairs just batteries
 

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Jayman,

Years ago I had a 1978 Datsun 280Z that would always use about a quart of multi-grade oil between 3000 mile oil changes. I switched to a straight 30 weight and it stopped using oil. Now, my wife's Hyundai does the same thing with multi-grade - about a quart between oil changes. It only has 30K on it and has been doing this for a while. Think using a straight 30 will resolve this issue?
 

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just to add some discutssion to the oil range difference between U.S. and european cars. I googled 15w-50 and europe vs U.S. and found this board the guys are talking about how the same car and same specs same everything one can be in the U.S. and one in the europe area they totally use different oil specs even the dealerships do it. In Uk they use a 10W-60 and in the U.S. same car the dealership tells them 5W-30.......

Odd and why they do this? I wonder what provides better protection if thats the case? it seems it all stems back to the U.S. government and EPA blahh...blahh..blah.....or maybe U.S. are just consumers and we buy cars every 4 years anyways so it dont matter what oil we put in the car cause government knows we will buy new cars anyways before it dies.


Anyone else here using Mobil 1 Motorsport 15W-50 oil (UK members in particular)? - The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com)
 

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if the manufacturer says it's good and will warranty it, why mess with it?
That's a good point, and for the average driver there shouldn't be any difference. However, warranty is usually 60,000 miles, after that you're on your own

Remember the Oil Sludge lawsuit, those who went "by the book" had sludged up motors. If the issue had been caused by a handful of drivers who never, ever changed their oil, the lawsuit wouldn't have gone anywhere

One consequence of that lawsuit is that for North America, every Toyota vehicle has a 6 month or 5,000 mile oil change interval. For something with mandatory synthetic oil, like the 2010 Prius, that results in pretty expensive upkeep

The same motor used in other countries, will NOT run a 5W-30. Try to find a 5W-30 in Australia, or South Africa. Even if the viscosity is available, they will tell you NOT to use it over +50 F

I should have kept the shop manual for my 1990 4Runner, it had an "international" flavor to it. The section on lubrication, had a chart with a wide listing of viscosity, even monograde oils like 30. That chart had 5W-30 cut off at +50 F

But the owner manual, clearly intended for US and Canada, indicated 5W-30 all year round. Which document was correct? The shop manual, or the owner manual?

you will lose the 2% fuel (MPG) if switched to a higher grade.
Which the average driver would probably never, ever notice. Even something like a Prius, you'd really have to pay attention to notice. The first summer I had my Prius, ready to do an oil change, I had some heavy duty 15W-40 left over after servicing the tractor and work truck at my hobby farm. Around 3 qts, and I didn't want to keep it around a whole year

So, put it in the Prius. On average, I lost around 2 miles per Imperial gallon, so around 1.5 mpg or less in the real world.

I would never run a heavy viscosity in winter, and for most motors an xW-40 is plenty. I used Mobil 1 15W-50 year round in my 1990 4Runner, when I lived in Utah and Nevada.

When I sold the 4Runner, it had 460,000 km on it, the V6 was spotless inside. They did the free head gasket thing at the dealership, and couldn't believe that was the original motor with that many miles on it

It's not that hot but I run the piss out of it and inside of my motor look brand new .
Oil brand, viscosity?

Think using a straight 30 will resolve this issue?
A monograde has very little viscosity change over the operating temp. Remember that multigrade oils, say a 5W-30, start out as a 5W oil, with polymer additives to react to temperature.

Monograde oils rarely shear. A multigrade can shear, in some cases back down to the original viscosity

If the temps are always above freezing, try the heavy duty 30. If that works, but you need wider temp coverage, consider a heavy duty 15W-40

If you use the Lucas additive and thicker oil you will notice a difference in burning oil
Sure, run oil thick enough you will control oil consumption. Though if the motor is that shot, you might as well go ahead and rebuild

the same car and same specs same everything one can be in the U.S. and one in the europe area they totally use different oil specs even the dealerships do it. In Uk they use a 10W-60 and in the U.S. same car the dealership tells them 5W-30.......

Odd and why they do this? I wonder what provides better protection if thats the case? it seems it all stems back to the U.S. government and EPA blahh...blahh..blah.....or maybe U.S. are just consumers and we buy cars every 4 years anyways so it dont matter what oil we put in the car cause government knows we will buy new cars anyways before it dies.
Even if they spec something like a 0W-30, the oil specs are light years beyond our crap API/ILSAC standards. Oxidation tests are more demanding, run 3x longer, etc

We've been conditioned to oil changes every 3 months or 3,000 miles,and cheap oil under $2 a qt. In the EU, the normal oil change is 12 months or 10,000 miles, and oil is much more expensive (It has to be, it must work harder and last longer)

There are a lot of cars in the EU that now offer oil changes every 24 months or 30,000 miles. That's not possible with cheap crap API $2 a qt oil
 

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Jayman,

Years ago I had a 1978 Datsun 280Z that would always use about a quart of multi-grade oil between 3000 mile oil changes. I switched to a straight 30 weight and it stopped using oil. Now, my wife's Hyundai does the same thing with multi-grade - about a quart between oil changes. It only has 30K on it and has been doing this for a while. Think using a straight 30 will resolve this issue?
I had a 1995 Volvo with 109,000 on the odo when we bought it. It used 1 qt of 10W30 dino oil per 3,000 miles at the time. I switched it over to 10W30 M1 synthetic and within 2,000 miles it used noticeably less oil. Now it gets 6,000 miles to a qt. I believe the synthetic oil cleaned the oil ring lands and freed them up as well as it has less high temp volatility. I didn't need to change viscosity or add any other additives.

DEWFPO
 

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I believe the synthetic oil cleaned the oil ring lands and freed them up as well as it has less high temp volatility.
W

If you use a quality synthetic once past break in, the ring land area should stay clean for the life of the motor. A good heavy duty oil, eg 15W-40, will do the same

j
 

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Here in Dubai the dealer uses 20w 50 API grade SL in FJs, landcruisers etc. Our temps hover between 100 - 120 F in the summer and 70 - 80 F in the winter time. :bigthumb:
 
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