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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

My first "real" post here, unfortunately it is an unexpected issue.

I've had my FJ for about two months. It is a 2010 6MT that I bought used with about 165,840 miles on it. No apparent issues with it at all when I bought it. I live in southwest VA so it is basically turning summer here.

For the first month, I didn't have tags so didn't drive it. Then in the past month I've driven it maybe about six times, mainly to drive out to a beat up gravel road to off-road a bit (just very light stuff as I am brand new to all of this). It is not a DD and I have tried to limit myself to only driving it when I will be going off-road. I've put maybe 100 miles on it since I've gotten it. No issues at all driving it, parking it a week, and then driving it the following weekend. I've exercised H, HL, LL, the rear diff lock, and all works as expected.

The FJ got a little dirty over the past two off-roading trips so I decided to wash it along with my two other cars. I washed it in my driveway using a hose to make sure the wheels and underbody were cleared of dirt. After washing it, I parked it in the corner of my driveway and it sat for a week.

Yesterday, I went to start it up. Saw these lights on my dashboard:
1131825


The engine sounded normal and I could use gears and the clutch but it felt like all of the brakes were locked up. After a bit of research on this forum, I concluded it was because the brake pads were rusted to the rotors. I tried to rock it back and forth using first/reverse, and eventually broke the wheels free. Then I drove the vehicle around the neighborhood for a while to exercise the brakes. Seems to drive absolutely fine.

Trouble is, these lights are still on. What is the most likely culprit? Should I take it to a dealer or my non-Toyota mechanic? My local Advance Auto Parts is unfortunately not reading engine codes anymore due to COVID-19.

I'd appreciate any advice or real-world experience with this. Probably not going to drive the FJ this weekend just to be cautious...

Thank you for any help you might have.

-Kevin
 

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Buy yourself a inexpensive OBD code reader; it will pay for itself 100X over.

Determine what triggered the check engine light and post the code(s) here for feedback; it is likely whatever triggered the CEL is related to the slip indicator light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay, thanks. I'm new to working on cars but want to learn. Also want to keep the FJ going for as long as possible, so this is a great tip.

I went and bought a mid-priced one at Advance Auto Parts.

The code is P0031. O2 sensor heater control circuit low (Bank 1 Sensor 1).

Interesting that washing the car affected the O2 sensor heater control circuit?

Thank you kindly,
Kevin
 

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OK, if you're new to vehicle maintenance and interested in learning about your FJ, you need to do a little studying.

Your engine is a 4.0L V6, Toyota model 1GR-FE, used around the world in many Toyota vehicles.

Your V6 engine has FOUR sensors in the exhaust system that measure the air/fuel ratio and the oxygen content of the exhaust gas; this information is used to control the fuel injection system and monitor catalytic converter efficiency. There are two sensors for each bank of 3 cylinders.

Cylinder bank 1 is the PASSENGER-side cylinder bank. SENSOR 1 is the front air/fuel sensor, located in the exhaust manifold fairly close to the engine.

All of these sensors have internal electrical heaters so they can be brought up to operating temperature quickly, and begin providing accurate data to the fuel injection control system.

The Engine Control Unit (ECU) constantly monitors many engine parameters, including the temperature and current draw of these heaters. If any of the parameters 'seem' to be out of spec, the ECU turns on the Check Engine Light.

Locate the #1 sensor for the #1 cylinder bank, and check the wiring harness for damage, and make sure the connector is fully seated and latched. If everything looks good, you can de-mate the connector and make an electrical resistance measurement (using a good quality digital multimeter) of the heating element to make sure it is not burned out or shorted.

You have fairly high mileage on your vehicle, and these sensors have a typical life of 85 - 120K miles. Do you have any service history with this vehicle? All four of these sensors should have been replaced LONG AGO. It would be very likely that a heater has burned out if these are still the original sensors. If these are original, your FJ will run better and get better fuel economy if you replace at least the front sensors on both cylinder banks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Very interesting, thank you FJtest!

I logged onto the Toyota site to track down maintenance history. I have up to about 128k miles. No sign of O2 sensor replacement. So I'll replace the two front air/fuel sensors.

I found some posts regarding tools such as these:

I looked at my local dealer's parts website and found two front front air/fuel sensors:
Part # 8946704060
Part # 8946760060
What is the difference between these? Is one for the passenger side and one for the driver side? When I look at the sensors under the FJ, they both look more like the 4060 part drawing.

Also, is there a torque spec on these, or is it just user judgement? Seems like there can't be a torque spec because I can't see how to use a torque wrench in this case.

Anyway, once I know the part numbers for sure I'll place the order and proceed with replacing these. Assuming that I don't seriously damage the threads or screw up anything like that, it looks like there is a clear path to clearing the CEL.

Any ideas on the vehicle stability control light?

Thank you very much for your help,
Kevin
 

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DO NOT use anything but Denso OE Identical sensors. You can cross-check the P/N at densoproducts.com, and then shop for the best price, which I have inevitably found to be on Amazon, at a substantial discount from a dealer's inflated price.

I'm showing that the same P/N (DEN234-9101) is used for both the L and R air-fuel sensors on a '10 manual 4WD, but confirm yourself.

I've replaced a fair number of these sensors, and never needed to chase the threads in the manifold, but do chase if there is any evidence of thread galling. Do apply a TINY amount of anti-seize to the threads on the sensor, work the paste into the threads with a small stiff brush, and then wipe off any excess. DO NOT allow ANY thread lubricant anywhere near the sensing element.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
FJtest,

Wow, $203 each, really?

The Denso website says this part is backordered nationwide.

I can get the parts listed above from my Toyota dealer for about $160 each with local pickup. Here is the 4060 listing, which looks the most like what I have now:

The Toyota website above says both 4060 and 0060 fit the 2010 FJ Cruiser (in the What This Fits tab for both parts listed above). However, the ones currently on my vehicle look like 4060. Not 0060, with the thing that looks like an upside-down bottle cap around the nut. For reference, the Denso one quoted above looks like 0060. Confusing. Just on looks though, 4060 looks like the right one and I'm willing to gamble on that one based on what I've seen so far...

Thank you again,
Kevin
 

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Kevin,
I "think" one (maybe the only) difference is in the length of the wire connections from side to side (?)
Which could be a big thing...
D
 

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You may also want to check pricing / availability on @RockAuto 's website. Amazon always seems to have problems with their "side by side" inventory for parts, and you never know if you get a real one or a cheap knock off packaged as real.

I picked up both my O2 and A/F sensors from RockAuto just to avoid that knock off hassle from Amazon. RockAuto does sell Denso sensors and you may save a few bucks since they are a forum sponsor. :
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay, so RockAuto had only one product entry for the FJ front sensors with one left in stock (NTK 24833). I just put in my order. $133 which may be the best price out there that I can find. I also got the sensor wrench from Lisle.

I'm guessing COVID-19 has messed with the parts inventories this year. If this one doesn't work for some reason I'll just chuck it and get the ones from my local Toyota dealer. I'll be sure to measure the wire length of the ones on there now to see if there is a difference.

On a different topic, I got my rear trailing arms from Rokmen yesterday. I'll attempt to get those installed today while I wait for the air/fuel sensor...

Thank you all for your help.

-Kevin
 

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Did you look on the densoproducts.com website to at least confirm part numbers?
OE Denso A/F sensor, '10 FJ, manual transmission, shows a price of $125, although they are currently on backorder.

Denso A-F sensor, 2010 manual FJ.JPG
 

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You may also want to check pricing / availability on @RockAuto 's website. Amazon always seems to have problems with their "side by side" inventory for parts, and you never know if you get a real one or a cheap knock off packaged as real.

I picked up both my O2 and A/F sensors from RockAuto just to avoid that knock off hassle from Amazon. RockAuto does sell Denso sensors and you may save a few bucks since they are a forum sponsor. :
Direct question: Have you ever received what you feel was a 'counterfeit' Denso air/fuel or oxygen sensor purchased through Amazon?
 

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Direct question: Have you ever received what you feel was a 'counterfeit' Denso air/fuel or oxygen sensor purchased through Amazon?
I have received knock off knives and flashlights and printer cartridges from Amazon in the past that were supposed to be official and shipped and sold by Amazon.

I read some of the reviews of the various Denso parts on Amazon (in particular, the MAF Sensor) where many folks were complaining of early failure and potential knock off issues.
Therefore, as I mentioned above, I chose not to risk it with my FJ and just went with RockAuto. And, since I only have 1 FJ, I haven’t had need to make multiple purchases of O2 or A/F sensors, so haven’t tried any from Amazon.

Knock offs on Amazon have been a problem for a while. Can’t speak to all automotive products or even Denso in specific, but just my personal choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Did you look on the densoproducts.com website to at least confirm part numbers?
OE Denso A/F sensor, '10 FJ, manual transmission, shows a price of $125, although they are currently on backorder.

View attachment 1131904
Okay, sorry FJtest. Hectic weekend with kids, dogs, house/yard chores etc. I did manage to get the rear trailing arms installed and tires rotated. The rear trailing arm replacement was surprisingly easy given some of the horror stories that you read here.

I went to the website. What do you mean confirm part numbers? Confirm with what other source?

I did do some investigation on the FJ itself. I looked at what I thought were the front sensors, wrote down part numbers, checked on the Toyota site, and low and behold discovered I was looking at the rear sensors this whole time. Rookie mistake.

I looked ahead of the cat units and saw the fronts. I could read the part number for the one on the driver side: 89467 60060. I also saw the upsidedown-bottlecap looking thing shielding the nut (I guess that is what it does). Below the Toyota part number, it read Denso 1572.

I saw the passenger side unit but it is so far up I couldn't read anything. It looked like it had the same length wire as the driver's side unit, so they both appear identical at this point.

Now my real question: how the heck do I do anything with the sensors that far up? Doesn't look like there is any way to even get a wrench up there, much less see what I'm doing. How do I even get my hands up that far to unclip the plastic part? Unless I'm missing something, this looks like a very tricky fix, at least to my untrained eyes...

-Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Finally got resolution on this one.

This past Monday, I thought, what the heck, I'll just order the rest of the sensors (in addition to the one front I ordered) from my Toyota parts dealer here in town. So I ordered a front (89467-60060), rear driver's side (89465-60430), and rear passenger side (89465-60320). The parts were ready to pick up Wednesday.

So today I pick up the parts. I figured I'll just do the rears first just for practice. With the Lisle O2 sensor socket, I made pretty quick work of them. I got used to unclipping the sensors and breaking them loose. For the problematic front one, after looking at all the options, I decided to go in from above. While you can't really see things well, there seemed to be a reasonable amount of room to work in. So by total feel, since I couldn't see much of anything anything, I managed to get it unclipped, which you almost have to do with one hand. Then I got the O2 sensor socket on it and got a long flex head 3/8's ratchet on it and was able to break it loose. I confirmed that the two fronts have identical part numbers. Getting the new sensor on was a bit trickier as the torque wrench is bulkier. I was able to get it to torque with about one or two clicks of room to move the handle around.

I found evidence that the front had been replaced before. It had a small piece of colored tape around the wire. All the new ones that I got out of the box had this piece of tape. The rears that I took off the FJ did not have this piece of tape.

So now I just have the front driver's side that isn't changed, and the part I ordered from RockAuto hasn't even shipped yet, though I did get the Lisle O2 sensor socket very quickly from them. Go figure.

With the new sensor in the front passenger side, I was able to clear both lights. What will remain a mystery to me is:
1) How did the car wash burn out the heater on the front passenger side A/F sensor?
2) Why did the P0031 code trigger the VSC light to come on?

In any case, I'm very happy. I let the engine rip a bit driving to the grocery store to get some beer. It felt pretty peppy.

Thank you all for the help. I think the next project I'll tackle is a spark plug replacement. I've been reading about those lately. Looks like lots of fun.

Have a good weekend all,
Kevin
 
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