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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Nice job, Dave. Now that's what we call "Breakin' it down all Barney style"! I may modify this just slightly for the addition of 12V to the rear cargo area.
I may do that as well....there is another thread here that says the white wire is a constant hot for the subwoofer location, so that makes it easy. Again, the hard part is drilling the hole.

MudLovingFJ said:
Great write up Dave. I hope tomorrow I can head down to your place and help install those Hellas on your bumper.
I'm SERIOUSLY looking forward to this!!
 

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Perfect write up!!! :cheers: thanks Dave!
 

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Excellent job Dave! LCSteve already mentioned the wire size.

My only other comment is that I solder all wire connections. I've found that the bouncing we encounter on trails tends to loosen crimped wire connections.

cheers,

dale
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Excellent job Dave! LCSteve already mentioned the wire size.

My only other comment is that I solder all wire connections. I've found that the bouncing we encounter on trails tends to loosen crimped wire connections.

cheers,

dale
Excellent point! Thanks!!
 

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Dave thanks for that, iv just orderd a 75WXST and was wondering how to get the console out so i could mount it in there and you just showed me:clap:

col
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Hahaha....thanks....I had myself in mind when I made the thread :D

I kept seeing some of the questions in the other 12V outlet install thread that were answered in this one....just thought I'd bump it to help them out too....
 

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Nice. I plan on doing this as well as adding outlets to the rear as soon as my West marine outlets get here. Nice write up!
 

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I really need to do this mod. I've got the stock cover and 12v outlet ordered up from trademotion, but still need to find the mini add a circuit. I can't seem to find one online for less than about $16 which seems a little high. Especially since I'll likely get bent over a barrel on shipping anyway. And the local stores don't have it either.

How do I add a switch to it though so that I can run it with the key on or with the key off? Every once in a while it's nice to be able to charge my phone when I'm running out of juice, but I don't want the light in the charger always running. The majority of the time I want it to be key dependent, but it'd be nice to have a toggle that would enable me to draw straight off the unswitched fuse the rest of the time.

Thanks!

Edit: Oh, and it should look good too, not el cheapo franken-cruiser. :)
 

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I meant I didn't want it to look cobbled together and held in place with duct tape and chewing gum. And your ride is hardly what I'd call a Franken-cruiser Dave. That beast looks pretty sweet, even better when you swap out the stock rollers I imagine.

Anyway, will I just have to run two add-a-circuits one keyed and one not and then use the switch to select which positive lead I want? If that is the case, it would almost be nice to make the stock plug selectable as well.

I just don't want something like this:


Now given that I fly for a living I could live with something like this:


But even so I'd rather use a clean and inobtrusive selector.

This and the seat heaters I want to do at the same time. And maybe while I'm at it I'll try to run the 115v outlet.

Actually, the perfect switch would be a flush covered switch that is backlit when the battery (unkeyed mode) is selected. Anyone seen one of those around here?

Edit: For those like me, you can find them here: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/629/1321.pdf

16mm spdt latching pushbutton with an optional flip up clear cover. You need to use a relay though, as the switch won't handle much. Or if you have contacts in the business or just a lot of money to through around, check out the Staco Series 40, 90, or 100 switches. Made for the military and customized for you, they'll work to 70k' and are okayed for chemical exposure and explosive atmospheres!

I'd like to do it, but at cost has me ordering from Mouser instead. Something about the $700-4k price of the Staco.
 

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Today I installed a 12V outlet (cig lighter plug) in the FJ. This will have a LOT of pics, so I may break it up into 2 posts, then try to merge them later. This is a VERY detailed thread (some will say too detailed). The reason for this is so even the most inexperienced novice can do this and have complete confidence in what they are doing.

I went to Pep Boys and Radio Shack for the parts and supplies. First, the Mini Add-A-Circuit. This is what will provide power to the outlet:



I also picked up some 12 Ga wire, since the lighter wire will not reach the add-a-circuit wire. I picked up the outlets at Radio Shack.

I got some zip ties (wire ties) to keep the wires out of sight and tucked up safely:

The first thing I did was pull off the fuse box door so I could find a place to put the add-a-circuit:



I unpacked the new amp meter (circuit tester). This one cost me $5 at Harbor Freight. I already got my money's worth out of it.

I took the black (negative) probe and touched it to one of the bolts holding the door to the hinge:



I took the red (positive) probe and placed it into the empty fuse slots until I found a location that showed hot with the key off. Use the top slot for the hot end: Note: The bottom left 3 locations are constant hot (the already-empty slots):



With both the black and red probes touching the above listed locations, the meter should look like this (showing 12 volts without the ignition key on):



Now, take the black (negative) cable off the battery. safety first!

Ok, it's time to disassemble the center console. Start by engaging the parking brake, and lift off the parking brake trim piece:



Now unscrew the shifter handle and place in an area that is out of the way....note: you may want to shift the trans into neutral to avoid scraping the console. I did not, and there was no scraping....I was careful :D :



Pull up on the rear of the center console, and lift it off the FJ in a rearward motion, being careful not to scrape the shifter or brake handle:



So, now your console is out of the FJ:



Find a location that you want to put your outlet. There are a lot of places you can put one, like in the rear storage "bucket" in the center console, in the dash storage box, etc. I chose a place that is exclusive to us 4X2 trucks....in the tray where your 4X4 shifter would be! This is the hole where the little tray is:



On the bottom of the tray is a little hole area. I used this as my starting pilot for the hole saw. I drilled thru the hole and used the hole saw from the top face of the tray. Here is the tray with the hole cut in it:



With the hard part done locating a place for the outlet and cutting the hole), it's all down hill from here on out. Now, push the outlet into the hole so the wires/prongs are on the underside or inside of the structure you are mounting to....front (top):



Bottom/inside:



Ok, now take one of the add-a-circuits out of the wrapper. Do not put a fuse in it yet. The battery is already disconnected, but this gives you double-safety.

Now, strip one end of the extra wire you bought. Not much, just strip 1/4" of the wire like so:



The red wire on the add-a-circuit already has a crimp connector attached to it. Take the stripped end of the long red wire and slide it into the end of the connector, and crimp the connector like so:



Take the add-a-circuit end and slide it up and into the area of the fuse box, as shown:





Now, plug the add a circuit into one of the bottom left fuse slots...it should NOT take effort:



Ok, we are about there. Now, take the black wire from the outlet. On the free (dangling) end, it has a circular connector on it. This end is too small to put where I did, so you will need to cut the end and make it a U connector.

On the left and right side of the shifter is a 10mm bolt. I loosened the left side since that was the seat I was sitting in. Loosen the bolt about 4 turns, just enough to slide the U connector under it.



Tighten the bolt. The ground wire is done.

In the package with the outlet is a little blue wire splicer. Take this out of the wrapper. Slide one end of the red wire from the outlet into it, just past the silver metal splice contact:



Bring the red wire from the add a circuit through the side of the console to the center part where we are working, and use tie wraps to get the wire securely tied out of the way:



Cut the excess wire and place the extra wire out of your way. Slide the end of the add-a-circuit wire into the blue wire splice thingy from the other end, again, just past the silver metal contact point:



Now take a pair of pliers and mash down the metal contact until the top of it is flush with the blue plastic:



Now take the plastic flap and snap it closed. We are almost done!!

Take one of the tie wraps and tie up the excess wire so it doesn't get caught on the shifter or anything. Put a fuse in the add-a-circuit (I used a 10 amp). Now,working in reverse from taking the console apart, put it all back together again. The last thing we'll do is connect the battery cable we took off. Now, with everything connected and put back together, plug in something to test the outlet. If it works, then you have done a good job.

Here is what mine looks like finished:

Just an informative pic of the switched and unswitched fuses in the FJ. I use this all the time.
 

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Thank you for this! I'm hoping to use this soon to install some LED strips inside the car with how dark it gets and planned installing an extra outlet to hide the plugin.
 
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