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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone installed the Tantrum Strobe light kit? Quite a few posts on the Jeep forums. The kit consists of 8 waterproof LED pods.
 

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I ordered a set of these tonight, and they will be installed for our next trip on 8/16. A couple of things I have read that I really like:

  • 8 LED light pods at 2 watts each = 1.33 amps, so I won't even have to install a relay.
  • Remote controlled, so no switch to wire up (and I can turn them on from the tent)
  • Waterproof (the whole light assembly is cast in resin)
  • Won't get hot like a halogen light

and the fun part, lol... VisionX Tantrum YouTube Video
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am very interested in how you install them. Specifically, best locations for the eight pods. Please post some pictures if possible. I have mine ready to install but waiting on a few more mods before them. Thanks!!




I ordered a set of these tonight, and they will be installed for our next trip on 8/16. A couple of things I have read that I really like:

  • 8 LED light pods at 2 watts each = 1.33 amps, so I won't even have to install a relay.
  • Remote controlled, so no switch to wire up (and I can turn them on from the tent)
  • Waterproof (the whole light assembly is cast in resin)
  • Won't get hot like a halogen light

and the fun part, lol... VisionX Tantrum YouTube Video
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Any updates?


I ordered a set of these tonight, and they will be installed for our next trip on 8/16. A couple of things I have read that I really like:

  • 8 LED light pods at 2 watts each = 1.33 amps, so I won't even have to install a relay.
  • Remote controlled, so no switch to wire up (and I can turn them on from the tent)
  • Waterproof (the whole light assembly is cast in resin)
  • Won't get hot like a halogen light

and the fun part, lol... VisionX Tantrum YouTube Video
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sol,


Those do look nice. The Vision X ones fit better where I am mounting them. I guess I could be persuaded to sell my unused Tantrum kit and shift to the round eyes. Will have to think it over. The other option is to supplement my kit with a few of the Roundeyes.

Jeff you should also checkout the LED rock lights from Roundeyes, they are super bright and have more of a flood pattern.
 

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I have the roundeyes though not installed. Sitting in my garage for months along with other after market parts.I travel too much that any free time I wheel. I am in Phoenix so PM me your email address and I will send you an email when it is all hooked up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I know the feeling - not enough time!! PM sent.


I have the roundeyes though not installed. Sitting in my garage for months along with other after market parts.I travel too much that any free time I wheel. I am in Phoenix so PM me your email address and I will send you an email when it is all hooked up.
 

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Got it. That and I just broke a CV wheeling in reverse. It is the latest craze that I have been doing for awhile. I knew it was going to happen sooner or later.
 

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While, these aren't as fancy as the ones here, Here is a website which has all kinds of LED's which you can make your own light set up and have lights anywhere you could ever want them... I am looking into making a set up right now.. I have a couple on order so I can figure out where to put them all..

Hope this helps..

 LEDLight.com LED Lights, LED Lamps, LED Bulbs

:cheers:
 

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Sorry I have been tied up with planning, prep and actually doing some expedition style runs. I'm leaving Wednesday for another 6 day trip in the backwoods too.

I got the Tantrum lights and installed them. The biggest PITA is routing all the cables under the vehicle and keeping them away from moving parts, hot exhaust components and high enough to not get snagged on brush and rocks.

Aside from that here is where I mounted them:

-One on the underside of each front bumper wing. Although some may worry about this spot, I have never even come close to knocking off either front wing, and this puts the light in the absolute perfect position for lighting up the area right in front of the front wheels.

-One on each side right behind the front wheels. I mounted it on the plastic rocker panel piece so that the light is directed down between the two tubes of the factory rock rail. It is the perfect position for placing light right behind the front wheels, although without the front mud flaps, these will get mud on them from the front wheels (mine did a little).

-One on each side right in front of the rear wheels. Again, mounted to the plastic rocker panel so that the light is directed down between the two rock rail tubes. This is also a good place and puts the light right in front of the rear wheel.

-One on each side, just behind the rear mud flaps, mounted on the lower part of the plastic rear bumper, pointing straight down. This is also a really good spot and perfectly placed to put the light on the ground right behind the rear wheel. Since they are within the departure angle of the rear wheels and rear bumper, I think these are pretty safe as well.

I mounted the distribution block right on top of the main engine fuse box with double sided tape. If I want to get to a fuse, it is pretty simple to just pull all the cables (which I have labeled) and lift off the cover with the distribution block attached. I may revisit putthing block somewhere else, but it works fine for now.

They all work really well for me. I'm not really a Rubicon type 4-wheeler (although I do occasionally do some pretty rough stuff). My typical 4 wheeling is more of the expedition type runs, and these lights worked well beyond my expectations when we went camping last weekend in the sticks. With no street lights or campground lights it was pitch black, but with these, it lit up the whole area with a nice bluish-white glow.

I could leave them on for hours (probably all night) without worrying about a dead battery in the morning, which I did. I also had little kids running around, and no worries about someone burning their fingers on a hot light.

Last, the really cool thing was laying in the tent at night, and when the occasional deer walked into the camp, to use the remote, flick on the lights and hear the critter take off like a bat out of hell :)

For the price, I don't think you can really go wrong. I think the round eyes were about $25 a pod, which is $200 (for 8) and AFAIK, they don't come with any sort of distribution block, control module or remote (which would be extra), plus a switch to control it all. These only run $101 on Amazon and have free shipping.

I wired the control module into the storage well in the back of the center console, right next to my 12 volt outlet and CB antenna jack. Then I just tapped right into the 12 volt power and ground. I had installed the 12 volt outlet a few months ago (for the CB) and it is wired for 10 amps. I can't imagine getting close to that, as the lights pull 1.3 amps total and the only other thing I every hook up to the 12 volts outlets are electronics that only draw milliamps.

I did drill pilot holes into all the plastic where I mounted the lights. I am sure it will hold up better with screws to the rain, mud, snow, etc. in the long run than just the double sided tape (which was pretty strong).

If you want I can take some pics, but I think my descriptions were pretty good :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the great description. I assume you used the black screws that came with the kit? Also, I am considering mounting pods above each wheel in the wheel well to light up shocks, other linkages. Also sounds like you mounted to only plastic vice sheel metal. If you get a chance pictures are always great.


Sorry I have been tied up with planning, prep and actually doing some expedition style runs. I'm leaving Wednesday for another 6 day trip in the backwoods too.

I got the Tantrum lights and installed them. The biggest PITA is routing all the cables under the vehicle and keeping them away from moving parts, hot exhaust components and high enough to not get snagged on brush and rocks.

Aside from that here is where I mounted them:

-One on the underside of each front bumper wing. Although some may worry about this spot, I have never even come close to knocking off either front wing, and this puts the light in the absolute perfect position for lighting up the area right in front of the front wheels.

-One on each side right behind the front wheels. I mounted it on the plastic rocker panel piece so that the light is directed down between the two tubes of the factory rock rail. It is the perfect position for placing light right behind the front wheels, although without the front mud flaps, these will get mud on them from the front wheels (mine did a little).

-One on each side right in front of the rear wheels. Again, mounted to the plastic rocker panel so that the light is directed down between the two rock rail tubes. This is also a good place and puts the light right in front of the rear wheel.

-One on each side, just behind the rear mud flaps, mounted on the lower part of the plastic rear bumper, pointing straight down. This is also a really good spot and perfectly placed to put the light on the ground right behind the rear wheel. Since they are within the departure angle of the rear wheels and rear bumper, I think these are pretty safe as well.

I mounted the distribution block right on top of the main engine fuse box with double sided tape. If I want to get to a fuse, it is pretty simple to just pull all the cables (which I have labeled) and lift off the cover with the distribution block attached. I may revisit putthing block somewhere else, but it works fine for now.

They all work really well for me. I'm not really a Rubicon type 4-wheeler (although I do occasionally do some pretty rough stuff). My typical 4 wheeling is more of the expedition type runs, and these lights worked well beyond my expectations when we went camping last weekend in the sticks. With no street lights or campground lights it was pitch black, but with these, it lit up the whole area with a nice bluish-white glow.

I could leave them on for hours (probably all night) without worrying about a dead battery in the morning, which I did. I also had little kids running around, and no worries about someone burning their fingers on a hot light.

Last, the really cool thing was laying in the tent at night, and when the occasional deer walked into the camp, to use the remote, flick on the lights and hear the critter take off like a bat out of hell :)

For the price, I don't think you can really go wrong. I think the round eyes were about $25 a pod, which is $200 (for 8) and AFAIK, they don't come with any sort of distribution block, control module or remote (which would be extra), plus a switch to control it all. These only run $101 on Amazon and have free shipping.

I wired the control module into the storage well in the back of the center console, right next to my 12 volt outlet and CB antenna jack. Then I just tapped right into the 12 volt power and ground. I had installed the 12 volt outlet a few months ago (for the CB) and it is wired for 10 amps. I can't imagine getting close to that, as the lights pull 1.3 amps total and the only other thing I every hook up to the 12 volts outlets are electronics that only draw milliamps.

I did drill pilot holes into all the plastic where I mounted the lights. I am sure it will hold up better with screws to the rain, mud, snow, etc. in the long run than just the double sided tape (which was pretty strong).

If you want I can take some pics, but I think my descriptions were pretty good :)
 

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I'll try and get some pics taken tomorrow and post them up. I would advise against mounting them anywhere in the wheel well...the first puddle you go through will just cover them in muddy water and make them (or any other light) basically useless.

The only lights I have trouble with mud (or dirty water) is the ones right behind the front wheels. I probably wouldn't have problems if I still had my front mudflaps on, but I had to remove them to accommodate larger tires.

Here is a picture of them lighting up my garage in total darkness with a 5 second exposure....

 

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Oh, and yeah, the picture in my sig was taken after the lights were installed. We ran that river ford 4 times and then another ford about the same depth...not a single problem with the lights afterwords.
 

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Here are some more pictures. First few are of where I installed them, then a picture in the engine bay of the distribution block and then a picture of the control module I mounted in the console well.






 

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CactusJack,

I just finished my install. The hardest part was figuring out how to route the wires and where to connect them. Once you have a plan then the rest is pretty easy. I grounded each light and routed the positive wires up through the body grommet. Once through I connected all positives to one 16 awg wire that I routed through the firewall and into the engine compartment. The 16 awg positive was then tapped into the relay where I am running the OEM aux light for power and turning them on and off via the oem switch.The caveat is that the aux light requires the headlights on and the highbeams before you can use the switch.

I was going to use a separate switch but figured that it would be better to do it this way so that there is no chance of accidentally leaving the lights on and getting a ticket. I can't tell you how many times I accidentally had my roof rack lights on during the day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the update. Looking forward to the pictures.


CactusJack,

I just finished my install. The hardest part was figuring out how to route the wires and where to connect them. Once you have a plan then the rest is pretty easy. I grounded each light and routed the positive wires up through the body grommet. Once through I connected all positives to one 16 awg wire that I routed through the firewall and into the engine compartment. The 16 awg positive was then tapped into the relay where I am running the OEM aux light for power and turning them on and off via the oem switch.The caveat is that the aux light requires the headlights on and the highbeams before you can use the switch.

I was going to use a separate switch but figured that it would be better to do it this way so that there is no chance of accidentally leaving the lights on and getting a ticket. I can't tell you how many times I accidentally had my roof rack lights on during the day.
 

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Here they are. The Vision X is a good set for the money. These were $30 a piece and all you get is 1 led. You supply the rest i.e switch etc... The advantage is that each light uses only 1 super bright led cutting the wattage and power down so you can add more lights or tap into your existing wiring.

Front=2
Each side=2
Total of 6 round eyes or 6 LED's.





 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Looks great! Did you mount any facing the rear? Daytime shots of the mounting would also be great. Looks like more of us are adding these LEDs.
 
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